Att magazine collectors

Many years ago Rod and Custom , after it was restarted as a big mag, had an article on how to set up and install a Halibrand Quick Change in an early Ford axle. I am guessing it was sometime in the early eighties. I remember starting to read the story , being interupted, and somehow the magazine vanished. I have tried R&C to get a copy but am told they do not even know what year or month it was -- no list of issues exists, believe it or not and R&C does not have a complete set themselves -- in fact I think they are still offering a reward to anyone that has a full set.
All I want is a copy of that how to article---anybody got one?
Thanks , Dave

 

Rod & Custom had their 1st run from 1953 - June of '71. The 2nd run started in June of '72 and ran until may of 1974. The 3rd run started December of 1988 to current. I have the complete 3rd run up until 2009. Are you sure it was in Rod & Custom or maybe it was Street Rodder, American Rodder, Rod Action Rodder's Digest or even Hot Rod Magazine?? I have over 10,000 magazines but I can't rifle through them all to find this article.

 

Someone here on the HAMB had a tech on this just recently,,,,Do a search here..

 

I believe the QC was being put together by Pepe Estrada, one of the first to do the freezing of gears and stuff for strenth..I think it was in Hot Rod..Hot Rod web site should have it listed but don't think it was in the eighty's..

 

The issue you are looking for is the one with the California Kid and Jake's 34 on the cover...I think it is 11/73. I have a copy at home and can scan the article for you tomorrow. PM me if this is OK and I will tonight.

Steve

 

Looks like R&C Nov. 1973
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=148241

 

Roadster-- Fastback --- THANKS MUCH !! I have no idea how I misjudged to time so much, I could swear I was reading that mag in 1981 just after moving into a new house we built from 1979 to late 80 and that it was a new mag. Apparently NOT!!
I think you all have pegged it exactly and if roadstr can scan it so I can print it out ,I would much appreciate that . The copy in the article referenced on the HAMB is a bit hard to read.
Now I have one more question, The Halibrand I have is apparently a Culver city one , at any rate that is cast into it, and I guess is then going to be magnesium. It has a crack where the pinon bearing is housed -- being magnesium , what is involved to try to weld this crack?

 

I think you are looking for the SRM article that showed Dave Enmark building a QC. I may have his name wrong.................

 

If SRM did an article as well I would very much like to have that information as well. Thanks

 

Here is a link to a SRM index which shows several articles on quick change rears.
http://hotrodindex.150m.com/USSRTrearends-susp.txt

 

There are a BUNCH in SRM alright . Thanks.

 

I'm not sure that Culver City necessarily means magnesium. I believe that it dates the unit to pre-1963.

As to welding the pinion support. I have done this many times. I hate doing it because it is a real crap shoot on time and results.

Problems: The area is very thin (that's why they crack).
The castings tend to be very porous, (especially the magnesium ones) which means that there are A LOT of impurities in the weld area.
You have to get a lot of heat into the casting to get the weld area hot enough.
You have to CLEAN quite a large area which makes the casting even thinner.
Once welded, you have to have the bore for the nose bearing machined in line with the pinion shaft bearings.

That being said, It can be done and done correctly. Just don't be in a big hurry and if you pay someone else to do it, do not be surprised if it costs several hundred dollars.

I know most guys on here have a buddy that can do it on his lunch hour or even on the clock at their job. But if you are paying someone that is trying to make a livable wage, it might be more than you expected.

By the way, magnesium welding rod now costs $80+ per pound.

Finally, you can run with the bearing support cracked. I have had several cases where someone had welded the case, recracked it and welded it again and finally gave up and ran it with the crack. If you do this, clean the bore with lacquer thinner or Brake Clean, prime it with Loctite primer and carefully install it with GREEN Loctite. Do not get any in the bearing!

Use a roller beaing instead of a ball.

You can run without a bearing at all. Actually, if you need the nose bearing you probably should be looking at a 3/4 ton size Quick Change.

That's my $.02!

 

Have a look at the Nov 1973 edition (that is the one with Pete and Jakes coupes on the front cover) that had an article entitled "Pepe up your quickchange" .

 

I found this photo of my Cox Arny Jeep & Cox Vaga funny car

 

Thanks Gearhead---- I will take your advice and run it cracked and with loctite and a roller bearing.