Well, that makes sense since I have to bleed them periodically. Thanks for the info, guess I'll have the rotors turned. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
What Don said... I does work . Are these a semi-metalic pad? I have had cases were on light application of that type of pad they glaze over and squeel like hell. Just a thought, but trying beveling the pads first.
scuffing the rotors is not enough. have them machined. clean the caliper or the insert where the pad rides and lubricate it with the appropriate lube. lube the caliper pins. apply disc brake quiet to the back of the pads. let them tack up just a bit prior to installation.
This will solve your problem and not require you to take anything else apart. Not sure why you wouldn't be listening to these people.....
Yes to everything. When you have enough comebacks that you have to fix for free, you eventually learn what works and what dosen't. I APPROVE this particular post. Alteredpilot knows of what he speaks.
because I already have tried this before posting a new thread looking for help. I have listened to all of these people, and will be doing the following: switching to ceramic pads beveling the edges of the pads applying disc brake quiet lube have rotors turned I read back through the entire thread, and this encompasses all of the help people have offered. Thanks for the help FNG
Should have said it, then. Because there's at least 3 people here that told you to bed in your pads correctly that you didn't respond to. I admit that I'm a FNG... hopefully the "reading the OPs mind" trick will come when my post count gets over 1500.
i am always anal about brakes. when i do them i lube any metal to metal contact points ie, ends of pads to calipers, back of pads to calipers and i always clean the pins really good and re-lube them. and then break them in by doing a few light 25 mph stops and then let them cool overnight. i also use new rotors to. im not really a believer in turning. on my parents cummins truck, when i do the brakes on it they last about a year and a half before needing done again, and they dont squeak or get warped. now when my stepdad does them the way that they did them when he work at big-O back in the day(and he knows best because he was a certified tech.) they always make noise, drag and wipe out rotors in about 2-3 months. and within 6 months 1 pad is allways metal to metal and the other 3 look new. the parts stores wont warranty them any more with him because he was alway bitching at them about crappy parts. and one day the dumb kid at kragens said "what kind of lube are you using?". stepdady was you cant lube brakes, how will they stop! needles to say, mom wont let him touch the truck anymore. and he also always puts the wheels on with a impact gun cause thats how big-O did it 30 yrs ago not saying what i do is the perfect way to do them, but i dont have issues with brakes any more since i started doing all of that my 66 f100 has s10 calipers and 4x dodge rotors that are a lot thicker than the s10 ones so i have to mill about a 1/8" of of each pad and my last set stil lasted over 30k and that was with carbon pads
Steve Ray-Thanks for links. like most people, just replace pads-resurface or replace rotors and go. never really thought about this stuff. a bit complex for basic ride and parts but, a lot is ridding on a good brake job.
They are simple but require some attention that is also simple. A little dab of grease goes a long way to trouble free brakes. In the right spot , that is.
ok throwing my 2 cents in during lunch. check out this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_a6f-9LPi8 a lot of what has already been discussed is on this video. A lot of steps but each one is just as important as the next. Thanks for shopping at NAPA hope your local is treating you right
So by ME choosing not to respond to another post (read: not yours), YOU took it upon yourself to critique my "listening" abilities. Got it. Keep it on topic please.
I don't know if this will help , but I too had the squeaky brake problem for a long time. On my roadster I used Wilwood disc brakes . I don't think that you're using them , but what I did may be of interest as With you I was getting a lot of diffferent advice . What finally fixed my problem was a new and different compound pad , slightly re-surffacing the rotors , Placing a rubberized shim on the back of the pad and making sure that everything was assembled correctly . Then came the "bedding process" that Wilwood told me to do . Five stops from 0 to 20 mph , then five more to 40 then five more to 60. After you've gotten the rotors and pads hot , drive for about 10 min. without braking to cool them down. It' been about 6 mos. and 3K miles and everthing is still quiet. I hope this helps and good luck .
Do you remember what compound pads you ended up with ? Whenever we have called Wilwood they act as if they have never heard this problem before, which seems strange. We did find out from them the first set that blew brake dust all over was considered a drag racing pad, not meant for street usage, and the second set is too hard. It doesn't dust, but still squeals. Now my Son is talking about ceramic pads. Don
Semi metallic. So I had the rotors cut, switched to ceramics, and lubed everything and now its quiet and stops very nice. Thanks guys!
Don't use the cheapest pads; Those seem to be the worse offenders. I also run steel wool over the rotor surface after machining them,....And make the finest cut possible. 4TTRUK
I disagree with the "finest cut" thing. That will glaze up a rotor and set of pads in no time. I used to cut rotors on an Ammco lathe on either a 4 or 6 setting. One shop I used to work at would cut the rotors, then touch each side with an orbital sander on each side to scuff the surface. This is with the disc still rotating. I was a skeptic at first, but they said it helped the pads break in. Every brake job there stopped well, no comebacks either. Bob
I usually go for the best Bendix or Raybestos pads they offer. Pads are a whole different animal since they took the asbestos out of them, a lot less forgiving if something isn't 100% with the brake job. Bob
I used to drive a 1970 Opal GT (the one that looked like a small Corvette but got good gas mileage, I loved the car). The only way I could solve the squeaking problem on the brakes was to use soft linings (I think they were from the Buick dealer but I don't remember for sure). I regularly got 10K miles to a set on the front discs (I drive like a little old lady and don't live near any hills) but they were quiet and easy to change. I always thought it was a design defect in the car. Charlie Stephens
The Jalopy Journal
