65 Riviera spring removal, ball joints, etc...

You did take the spindle loose from the upper ball joint?

Let me do some research on the ball joints to figure out what style they are.

 

The following info on the uppers may not be correct as my 1972 Chiltons says to take the 4 rivets out to remove the upper ball joint from the A frame.

The upper is a press in with a lock nut on it.
Per my O'Reilly's cheat sheet.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...=Search_C0317_1319329_3703&pt=C0317&ppt=C0106

The lowers press in and out with a ball joint press which is a heavy duty C clamp setup.
Lower looks like this.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...=Search_C0317_1319329_3703&pt=C0317&ppt=C0106

Both ball joints appear to be Buick only but fit up though 1970

You can usually borrow(pay for and return) a ball joint press from
Autozone if you don't have one.

 

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?ck[ID]=0&ck[idlist]=0

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOG-K5075/

 

I checked Napa and they show the same style upper ball joint that O'Reilly's and Autozone show. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/R...ty=1&Ntt=&N=599001+101965+50008+2008026+27472

O'Reilly's also shows the Moog ball joint as being available but doesn't show it in the listing for Riv parts.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...29&ck=Search_k5075_1319329_3703&keyword=k5075

 

I have always done them from the bottom and hung the upper a-arm/spindle combo from a hook attached to the inner fender (even if I had to drill a hole on a customer's car.. shhhh). That gets it out of the way.

The lower ball joints might be a press-in. The only time I've seen them tack-welded was when they were pressed in crooked and the hole got egged out.

Bob

 

I get your angst about spring pressure, and even the most badass spring compressor doesn't always pull them short enough. You just have to get dirty bro. I use the screw style compressor and pull em up as far as possible, but even then, especially Vette and "X frame" cars, they're freakin long. Going in from the bottom, yes. Jamb it up in there and have a good pry bar handy to flex the rest into the A-arm pocket, jack the arm up until the ball joint can be replaced. It's sorta "cave man" work. Good luck. Any pics?

 

The A frame to backing plate interference and
pressed in lowers are common 60's and up GM
from my experience.
I always wondered if the interference was some sort of a safety feature,
in case the lower ball joint broke.
I have always separated at the lower, like you did,
But I have always taken the lower A frame out to press the ball joint in,
using a hydraulic press.
Trucks have two U bolts going up, undo the nuts,and the whole A frame should
come off. Not sure if the Riv's have the same system.

Putting the spring in takes a lot of feel with fingers to make sure it is positioned properly in the upper spring pocket, and the bottom is more visual, making sure the end of the spring is in the little recess in the A frame.

Good luck with it.

 

I always put a chain thru the spring and around the frame with a pad lock (on any coil spring removal) to prevent it from flying upon release that way once you remove the lower joint, it is still caught by the spring pocket until you remove the jack (I usually have to sit to the side and kick the lower A Arm down the last little bit (it pops as it comes loose but the chain holds it in nice and safe). springs are nothing to take to lightly.. they can fly... looking forward to seeing it down closer to the ground.

 

while you got the front end apart, put all 4 new ball joints in. take the A arms to a machine shop and they can press the old out and the new ones in. make it easy on yourself

 

Ryan, those c clamp style ball joint remover will work but they can be a bitch putting the new ones in. It hard to keep the ball joint straight as its going in. You might think about pulling the a arm and having them pressed in.

I borrowed this compressor from a local front end shop the last time I did coil springs. I think it was designed and manufactured in heaven. I didn't even know it existed until a buddy told me. Takes most of the fear out and your hands arent shaking like your having dt's.

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I did this for a living daily for a number of years and never took a lower ball joint loose without first taking the top one loose. It's just too much of a fight that you don't have to do with the spindle hooked to the upper A frame and in the big middle of the way of everything you are trying to do. It's just too easy to take the top side loose, take it loose from the bottom and tie it up over to the side out of the way.

Over the years I ran into some pressed in lower ball joints that were loose in the socket that they were pressed in and had to change A frames or tack weld the ball joint in place depending on what the customer wanted to spend.

Other than that how are you coming on it?

 

Ryan, if you're going with a 3" drop spring and the car is otherwise still together, you shouldn't have too much trouble. Get the spring clocked into the pocket and just start raising the arm with a floor jack. I've changed a lot of springs on stock cars this way, even at the race track. As long as the pigtail is in the right spot, it's not going anywhere.

 

its been awhile since i built a rivi, but i do remember the ball joints being a bitch like you explained. if i recall, i took the arms off completely, replaced the ball joints and bushings,reassembled the spindle,joints and arms on the bench then just installed the upper arm,install spring and jack lower into position as an assembly

 

With proper ball joint press kit u should have nominal problems. Make sure the joint is straight and you may have to tap the press occasionally to slide ball joint in...If arm is off , put the press in sturdy vise. Good Luck jim

 

Wait!? WTF!?
You got another Rivi?
Right on.......