hey guys just picked up a 64' chrysler 300 with a 413 and a pushbutton trans. got the motor running, but cant seem to get the transmission working. pulled the pan. and only about 3 qts were in it and the torque converter was dry. change filter and gasket. had a buddy push the buttons to change gears and the cable shift seem to work good, but when the car is running the torque converter does not suck up the fluid and when i put it in gear nothing happens i dont hear the pump make any noises, is the pump that bad? also what is the electrical wire that runs to the transmission? thanks all!
Has the trans or engine been out? If so, sometimes the convertor isn't pushed back enough into the trans to engage the oil pump.
got it from the original owners granddaughter and she said that her grandpa had rebuilt the motor. motor looked a bit dirty on the top tho, but it might have been rebuilt awhile ago because the bottom of the motor looked really clean. transmission was pretty clean also, when we got it the driveline was out, tranny dipstick showed a pint low, i dont know what the granddaughter did or her husband. so it might have been rebuilt and they didnt seat the torque converter all the way.
Sounds like the convertor is not seated.They also like to break the drive ear off the pump if the motor backfires.
if its not seated then it wont suck tranny fluid? what about if it doesnt go through the tranny cooler lines
T-fites don't fill the conv. in P. Must be in N for that to happen. Check the filter when the pan is off. The cloth type they used would plug VERY easy.
Sounds like the front pump could be out. Before pulling it apart, try letting the car idle in Neutral for about 15 seconds, then engage Drive or Reverse. If it moves, add fluid. If it doesn't, the pump MIGHT be bad. You really need to find a factory service manual from anywhere from 1960 through 1965, as all had the cable-shifted trans. The point where the cables meet the trans could well be out of adjustment, and they MUST be adjusted correctly for things to work right. Don't guess! A cable-shift 727 is hard to find, and they ARE different from the '66-newer TorqueFlites.
If you have filled the trans, the car does not move and there is no whine, there is a VERY good chance the cable mechanism is not adjusted correctly!!!
if the cable is not adjusted the transmission would still be pushing fluid then right? so im looking at torque converter not installed correctly and missaligned cable? two different beasts right?
From 1963 motors manual Torqueflite for fluid change 1 Remove drain plug from transmission 2 remove converter drain plug allow to drain replace plug 3 remove pan clean intake screen and pan 4 Install 5 quarts ATF through filler tube 5 start engine add one quart while idling 6 Allow engine to idle with park brake applyed, depress each button monentarily ending with N 7 with engine off add oil as necessary to to bring level to full
I have a 65 dart with a cable shifted trans, it is out of adjustment and will only go into gear from park. To answer your ? they are 2 different things but if it is stuck in park it won't pump.
When we put the car on jacks and put it into drive it would just barely spin the tires when you gas it
I'd check the valve body for a stuck torque converter control valve or front pump check valve with the car setting for a long time i'd bet on something stuck in the valve body especally sense it easy to check out.
Pushbutton adjustment is critical,set it by the book. fluid level should be checked while engine is warm and running,This also is sensative.
You said that you changed the fluid and filter. I believe the 65 and earlier Torqueflights had a front and rear pump. The filter has to have 2 oil pickup holes in it. Most filters have only one hole in them. Most parts guys don't know that there is a different filter for the early Torgueflights. The early ones with the additional rear pump could be push started also! Just a thought, since nobody else mentioned it. You could have other problems as well though. Let us know what you find out!
I've attached the service bulletin for adjusting the shift cables. Unless the transmission has been out of the car it probably hasn't been messed with, just as well. Be very kind to those cables, replacements will set you back $300. The wire that goes to the transmission connects to a neutral safety switch screwed into the transmission. The shift lever inside the transmission engages the switch which completes the circuit through the starter relay to the starter. The transmission neutral can be by-passed at the starter relay switch, but the car will start in gear. <O></O> <O</O <O</O<O</O
If the PO didn't install the convertor properly (deep enough) when he connected the engine to the transmission, the oilpump is pretty much always wasted. First thing WITHOUT starting the (cold) motor, is to check the fluidlevel on the transmission dipstick. It should show to be way overfilled ('bout an inch or 1.5"). Then start the engine, and check the fluidlevel again after a while. If the pumps works the level should have dropped to the correct level. If not, the pump is trashed. You can also disconnect or crack open one of the oilcoolerlines at the radiator. Start the engine and see if transmission-oil is gushing out or not.
Some thoughts, may help - The pump does not pick up fluid in park. If you put it in gear and there is not enough fluid in the pan, the output shaft still will not turn. You have to put it in neutral for a minute, then check the fluid level and fill to at least near the bottom of the dipstick before you'll get the hamsters running.
most people dont know these trans have two pumps. one front one rear. they will push start if you get it going about 15-20 m.p.h. and drop it in low. the converter may just be air bound. trying the push start deal might fill it.
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