How to secure your vehicle on your trailer

Okay... so I looked around 'cause there seems to be a split regarding the crossing or not crossing the tie downs.

According to the Military Surface Depoyment and Distribution Command, Transportation Engineering Agency... page 9, of the Tiedown Handbook for Truck Movements.

You should usually run chains or cables in a same-side pattern.

You should cross chains or cables when:
<O</O
1. There is interference with a same-side pattern.<O</O
2. Two chains use the same tiedown fitting on the payload vehicle. In this case, one<O</O
chain may be same-side and the other may be crossed.<O</O
3. When the same-side pattern results in a chain length that is too short for the<O</O
appropriate loadbinder.<O</O
4. Same-side may not provide adequate lateral restraint, if the tiedowns have no lateral<O</O
angle. In the end view, the two tiedowns would appear nearly parallel to each other and/or<O</O
vertical if they have no lateral angle. In this case, a cross pattern should be used<O</O
to secure the payload vehicle.<O</O

So it appears that both are correct, but same side pattern is preferred.

 

Military Surface Depoyment and Distribution Command, Transportation Engineering Agency..
Difficult to argue with these boys. Still, I keep thinking crossed straps add to keeping the vehicle centered whereas straps, ropes, cables, chains, etc forward only hold the vehicle from moving fore and aft.
Hopefully all these comments and tips helps others not to loose their prize 40 Ford coupe or other toys.

 

I once had to call AAA to get the roadster home. The guy driving the roll back tied it down with out crossing the straps. By the time we got home (about 80 miles) the rear of the car had shifted almost 8 inches to one side and the front about the same to the other side.

I always criss-cross straps when we use the trailer.

 

Been a while, but my understanding in NY is you can get a ticket if pulled over and the car is not tied down four ways. Usually one or two chains in the back (to the axle) and use the winch to pull tight, then tie down the front as well.

I had that problem with chain binders popping open, too, so the last time I used them I took some mechanics wire and wrapped around and that was enough to keep them closed. I think maybe just the vibration of going down the road can open them up. You get a lot of it on a trailer. One clunker we hauled home, a shoebox ragtop that sat on one side for like 40 years, I have no idea where what was left of the quarter panel fell off... it didn't look like it was going to come off, so I didn't tie anything around it, we got back and it was gone.

 

I think #4 needs to be reread.in a perfect world same side strapping would provide enough lateral restraint, but guess what 99% of trailers do not have tie down points wide enough to provide any lateral restraint so cross your straps to be safe & smart!

 

My winch hooked on my J hooks to pull it on. A chain and bear trap at each corner with the bear traps tied shut.Once it is bear trapped at each corner I let the tension off of my winch a bit. Car isn't going anywhere.....

 

I use the best ratchet straps I could buy and cross both front and rear

 

[

I had that problem with chain binders popping open, too, so the last time I used them I took some mechanics wire and wrapped around and that was enough to keep them closed .[/QUOTE]

If your binders are opening up they are not tight enough....a properly tensioned binder will not open. Check the chains and binders after a bit of bouncing and re-tension.

 

We have pulled a old race car over half the US.
This is the same way we do and never a problem.
The only thing we do that was not mentioned.
We close the ratchet, and go aroung it a couple of times with duct tape.

 

hows its done

 

Glad I found this thread. I have always ratchet strapped to my frame, but yes the bouncing is a concern. Strap to the lower A arms and axle would eliminate the bounce. Thanks!

 

By the way can anyone recomment a good set of ratchet straps? I've been using the ones for my ATV's that are rated at 2000 lbs, but would like to have a set of actual car straps now that my truck is near completion.

 

What an excellent and timely thread. Thanks for all the great advice.

I'm leaving tomorrow morning with an enclosed trailer to pick up my '32 then haul it a bit over 300 miles to home. I was wondering about securing the car inside since I've never done it before but this thread answered my questions.

 

I'm from the ratchet strap, straight not crossed school of thought. I've hauled many a mile and vehicle without any trouble, as said stop a bit down the road and check tightness. On long trips I check everytime I make a pit or gas stop. The car pictured was on for about 2900 mi

 

Check with Summit Racing, they sell a complete set of straps that come in a canvas bag. You have your choice of straight hook or twisted hook. The twisted hooks are rated higher but either are plenty strong. I have to use the flat hooks, the twisted ones gouge the floor of my aluminum trailer

 

i have used everything said on here,some cars just pose different problems.but i ve been told fed. law says there must be one chain in front that is separate and hook solid,no binder.keep safe

 

If you see mine on a trailer, then it's been STOLEN

 

When we are hauling for ourselves, not commercially, we are NOT required to stop at weight stations. I don't believe the California cop was correct in writing that ticket for uncrossed tie downs, I would have fought it. 56premiere I don't know where you heard that but I've never heard that and I don't find anything like that listed under Federal DOT.
I've had many patrol cars pull up alongside and check things out then wave and go on their way.

 

One thing that hasnt been mentioned is that no matter what method you prefer using...
take your time loading.Check and recheck before you hit the road.Be sure lights work,check safety chains,be sure where a chain or strap is attached that it is secure.
The pucker factor is greatly reduced when you KNOW everything is right.

 

Honey, hurry up and stop. This is a dead end!

Oh shit! Did I get stopped fast enough?

 

Greaat idea for overnight stops. We bought an old Chevy van and stayed in it every night. Saved $50-$100 each trip.

 

For you guys that prefer crossing your rigging, you need to consider what forces you are trying to overcome. Hopefully your not doing burnouts with your trailer attached. So the rearward forces are minimal. Are you taking the rig through a slalom course? Probably not. So the side to side force is reduced but still important. What is most important is keeping your load in place during hard stopping.
With all rigging devices(chain, slings,etc.) lift capacity is given in a straight verticle lift. When you angle your rigging to 30 degrees, the capacity is now 50% of the listed capacity. Look at it this way. If you ran a strap straight across, side to side, on your trailer you would have near zero strength in the fore and aft effect. The chain or strap gains considerably greater capacity as it goes inline with the force that you are trying to overcome.
So, crisscross your front chains or straps if you wish but always run the rears inline or slightly outward on the rear.

 

Scared and cautious are 2 different things in my book. My only fear is long downgrades. 8600# truck, loaded 32' trailer, that tends to pucker me up just a little. Most of the bigger classics I drag around are over 5000lbs so

If I can't cross the straps (which I only do for long interstate hauls) I feel plenty safe anyway since my outer hooks are a tad wider than most of the rear axles of the cars I haul. Also, hitting against the steel stops before being tied really holds them all in place. I really don't like the front end being "free", as in no stopping force should something actually happen. Plan ahead, no need for fear. Well I do fear something. Someone else "helping me". I do all my own final hook ups. I went 250 miles once, only to find 1 strap was never pulled up. That was 20yrs ago and it was the owner of the car that fucked up. Never again, and I refuse to be rushed by anyone on that task. The words "hurry up" and "let's go" get a hearty "fuck off" from me

 

Of my 30+ years at Caterpillar I drove a tractor trailer rig for 25 of those. Not a long time compared to over the road drivers. And we only drove plant to plant. Hauled many flatbeds with large yeller things, tractors, blades, etc. We never had a binder come loose. Used a long bar to pull them very tight. One blade weighs more than a couple puny old Fords.
I was never skeered either but did a lot of butt puckering in the winter time on snow and ice. Again thanks HIGHLANDER for your info. This ain't even my thread but I've been playing on it.

 

I have used both cains and straps. As time progressed, and the cars got more High end, I went to straps to avoid damage to the cars. I always do a 4 corner, over the axle and control arms, with individual rated straps at each corner, pulled at oposong angles to each side, and the winch as a safety chain. I replace my straps every couple of years, and will upgrade when I can. Money has been tight, but as of now I only tow about 3 times a year.

 

Good thread...I like the MIL-SPEC guidelines, hard to argue with that.

Several years ago I sold my 47 convert. I hauled it on an open trailer with 4 18-24" 4500lb straps with rings around the a-arms and rear axle and crossed on both ends and tightened the hell out of them.

South of Des Moines on 35W I hit a bridge approach that had quote a dip and was surprised at the next gas stop that the car had shifted several inches to one side. Thinking back I bet the angle was perhaps too severe and you could get more pulling force with two parallel.

To top it of after I sold it the guy was loading the car in his enclosed trailer (with not a lot of side to side clearance) with ATV straps... I couldn't believe it. I would have never thought it would make it another 700 miles without laying up against the trailer.

 

All my projects come home in the hatchback of my focus (I'm broke)

 

I have stayed in it well over 40 nights since putting it on in the winter of 06/07. I've done 5 western parts hunting trips, sleeping in truck stops, Walmarts and occasionally rest areas. It's paid for itself many times over.

 

I made 12 trips with my equipment trailer hauling 2 classics , a Harley and a lot of parts from Phoenix back to Fla. and never stopped at a scale either. I guess it was obvious I wasn't commercal. Back when my trailer was made single axle brakes was the norm so I just take it easy when hauling with my truck.

 

So you have seen me! Seriously though there is great info in this thread. If you see me hauling I'm the guy with 8 straps on his ride 4 crossed and 4 to the corners. Probably overkill but it works. If it's a short move I usually only use 4 straps to the corners. I stop often the first couple hundered miles to check tension. After that I just check when I get gas. Also I never go to the frame of the vehicle on the trailer.