How to secure your vehicle on your trailer

After reading about the trailering accident which heavily damaged that 40 coupe I began to wonder if my vehicles are properly tied down for towing. What's the best method for securing your vehicle to the trailer? Do you use chains, ratchet straps, tire saddles, secure the rear/front axles, fasten to the frame? What's best?

 

As I lay in bed last night I thought about starting this same thread. Been several other discussions and some confusion.
I hauled seven vehicles plus lots of junk from central Illinois 1000 miles to Florida when I retired. Bought an 18 foot flatbed heavy duty farm type trailer and an old Chevy van. I won't say how I hooked each car down because I may have not done them right.
Sure would like to hear the pros tell us the way to do it safely. Thanks for the thread rustednutz

 

I use chains in the front through the A arms, and then a ratchet strap at the back on each side of the axle angling out to keep it from bouncing side to side.

You want the car's suspension to work, outherwise if you hook to the frame and cinch it down, it'll bounce and come unhooked!!

 

I use chains and boomers most of the time. I throw over the back axle with a slight rearward pull from one side of the trailer to the other, then I latch onto the font end with a slight frontward pull. Boom them and then check my load after a bit and retighten as necessary.

This is probably not the most scientific modern way to do it but I have never lost a car and I did stick my trailer in a ditch on an icy road once.

 

I've done something similar with a heavy chain around the rear axle and dual ratchet straps on front axle/a-arms. That leaves the body to bounce around some but I guess that's okay.

 

i do like beaner. but i use a little bit of wire around the handle of the boomer. it probably doesn't do anything but it makes me more comfortable that the handle wont somehow come open.

 

I use ratchet straps on all 4 corners, and I cross my straps, so the right side straps to the trailer at the left side, etc. I also attach my straps on the axles front and rear to let the suspension work. Put the car in 1st, or park, and set the E brake. I also use straps at each attachment point that have ring ends to go around the axle, and my rachet straps have latching hooks to connect to the ring ends, so nothing can come unhooked from an open end hook.

 

Crossing the straps could cause the load to shift sideways if one were to break. I use axle straps and ratchet ties down plus the winch cable is always attached.

THROW AWAY straps that are the least bit frayed or cut! You're asking for trouble using worn out straps.

 

One of my friends taught me that one years ago. I've helped him load and haul a lot of cars over the past 30 years and it's always hook the front A frames or suspension in the front and the rear axle in the back then use the boomers in the back. I don't have anything against ratchet straps though but my bud doesn't have any or at least didn't have any the last time he hauled something for me.

 

It will keep the boomer from snapping open believe it or not and I have seen them snap open before.

 

That's how I did/do it. Plus no one mentioned, I used chocks made of 4X4 blocks nailed to the trailer each time at all four tires.
First car, I screwed up. The 55 Chevy wagon I hooked the straps to the bumpers like the 40 in the pictures. When I stopped to check, the bouncing worked the straps loose. While redoing them to the rear axle and front A-arms a couple truckers said that is the correct way. Lets the body bounce. Six more trips and six more cars no poroblems.
I even added 4 foot side boards and a tarp with ribs to make a waterporoof "grain hauler" type trailer. Right or wrong it worked and kept junk dry.

Don't forget, use a trailer with brakes and safety chains.

 

Thanks guys. Any pro haulers willing to chime in?

 

Straps?!?! I just set the ebrake. If no ebrake I just leave the car in gear. I don't see what the problem is.

 

When I hauled my 35 IHC pickup home, I knew nothing about trailering cars. I had all the tires inflated and used chains with binders. Problem is, I attached the chains to the truck's frame. Trailer was a common tandem flatbed with wooden floor. I was pulling it with my 78 F-100 shortbox and as I crested a hill, I looked on the mirror to see my prized IHC rolling toward the back of the trailer! I hit the brakes and the little pickup coasted forward on the trailer into the front rail..clunk!
I slowly coasted to a stop going down the hill. Found the bouncing truck had popped both chain binders open and nothing was holding the truck on the trailer at all!
I deflated all the tires and chained the suspension down tight...aired the tires up when I got home.
No problem since but I damned near lost my little pickup out on the highway due to inexperience....coulda killed somebody too.

 

What's an "e-brake" ??? Haha

 

Guns, you know you say that in jest, but, a few years ago my wife and I saw a gentleman getting on the highway towing a trailer with an OT car that had no visible means of being tied down. I told her "That's an accident waiting to happen" and sure enough when we came back that way about 30 minutes later that car was half way in the bed of the pickup after he apparently rear ended a car.

 

I just let all the air out of the tires!!! Not really. I usually do like you guys two in front on the a arms or axle. In the back a axle strap is really nice to use. But remember you can always control the go but you cant always control the stop. Youd think other drivers would see a trailer and give you a wide berth. But the idiots will even tailgate a gravel truck and bitch about there broken windshield.

 

I also use ratchet straps and cross them.
I replace the straps after a few years regardless.

 

I believe I am qualified to comment on this subject, 29 years & almost 3 million miles. I do not know how many vehicles I have transported, maybe 1000? & have NEVER lost one.
I use 4 straps plus the winch cable with a short strap. I do not use chains ever (they scratch painted suspensions) Criss crossing all 4 straps is the proper way to secure the vehicle. it is impossible for the vehicle to move side to side or front to back. A rachet strap will never come loose if it is installed properly & it is not defective to start with.
Criss cross the 2 fronts
Criss cross the 2 rears
Keep the winch cable secure on the front with a short strap & you will never have a problem!
One last comment.. If the vehicle does not have rear shocks attached, do not strap to the rear axle. It will look like a basketball going down the road!

 

Sir, I have to make a comment on the picture in your post of the rear straps you use. These are NOT vehicle tie down straps, they are only rated @ 1000 pounds per strap & I'm sure if you have never had a problem before you are going to think I am wrong but if you rear end somebody, your roadster is going to join you in the truck. Vehicle straps are rated @ 5000 lbs per strap.

 

Always use chain and beartraps. Make sure you are using Grade 70 Transport Chain for this,
As its name implies Transport Chain is used primarily to tie down loads on over-the-road equipment. The yellow chromate (gold) plating makes it easily recognizable even from a distance. Made from heat-treated carbon steel it has about 25% more strength than high test chains. Hallmarked every 1 to 3 feet with manufacturer's symbol and grade marking: 7, 70 or 700. Not for overhead lifting This is an industry standard that must be met if you are pulled across the scales and if you are pulling a car, chances are you will be brought across the scales,do not drive by them thinking you are pulling a personal vehicle. The beartraps also have a nice quick safety bracket made with a release pin now so you don't need to worry about the wired handles anymore, buy some of these for your own piece of mind.Simple yet effective .Deuce Roadster,I strongly suggest that you do not have enough ratchet strap on your car in the event of a panic stop or not getting stopped and hitting someone ahead of you, those tiny 1500 lb straps will shear off like there is no tomorrow and then you'll have a nice Deuce coupe loaded somewhere between the nose of your trailer and the box of your truck, not a pretty sight. Been on many a tow call over the years where we have to pull in messes such as this, I'll bet a couple good chains and bear traps are way cheaper than a truck,trailer and hot rod.

 

• Strap across axles with axle straps/loops. If you strap to the chassis, the straps will go slack in compression and either come loose or be strained on rebound shortening their lifespan. If you do strap the chassis, strap it tight enough to prevent suspension movement (easier to do on a stiff suspension).
• Don't strap to bendable control arms or suspension parts. They'll bend.
• I cross straps at least in the rear. If feasible, cross the front, too.
• I put the car in neutral with the e-brake on while strapping. Only after it's fully secured would I put it in gear. Overkill? Maybe, but I don't want needless, constant strain on driveline parts if it can be avoided.
• I prefer straps over chains, but that's personal preference for the most part.
• I use 4 5,000 lb. ratcheting straps and replace them when they start showing their age or excessive wear. It's just not worth the risk!

 

that's what I was thinking as well. buy some good straps!

a few weeks back I saw a guy over on the side of the road checking his trailer load. he was hauling a ford SUV on a regular car trailer with a 1/2 ton truck. he had some great straps, but they were tossed over the top of the vehicle like he was strapping down a big crate. no straps were on the frame or suspension at all. how could anyone be that stupid?

I have a big bucket of chains and chain binders. that's what I use.

 

I was going to say the same thing.

 

I've always crossed the ratchet straps and used axle straps - the best quality I can find and keep an eye on them for fraying, etc. It's kinda like the firesuit , etc. I had when I was drag racing - if you've got a $10 head, wear a $10 helmet.

 

I have pulled lots of trailered miles with a chain over the pinion on the rear axle attached to two tie down points on the trailer and a come a long attached to the front of the vehicle as close to the center as possible. Most vehicles have a variety of holes in the frame to choose from. I get it winched down tight in neutral and put it in park when done. If it is something I cant put in gear I usually attach a chain to the front also for a safety or a second come along for a backup. Chain doesnt get rotten/frayed like the ratchet straps.

 

How do you use the bucket to chain it down? Would a small bucket work?

 

I have 4 18" straps with D-rings at both ends that I use to attach to the axle/ front suspension and attach my chains to those. Each corner gets its own chain and boomer. Another thing to think about, say a guy was to buy a project and the tires are flat. When he picks the new project up he brings a compressor and the tires all air up. Things are looking up now so said fellow winches the vehicle up on the trailer and straps it down properly. Tires all still holding air, chains all tight, lets go! It only takes one good pot hole to blow out one of those old tires which then puts slack in a chain, which in turn puts slack in the other chains. Then the new project gets a suspension test as it "unloads" off the trailer and comes to rest 50 yds off the road in a muddy field. Thank god nobody was around to get hurt or see said fellow throw a fit for being a dumb ass. Now I will confess, I was said fellow. I was also sixteen and ignorant. That was a long afternoon.

 

And then surround the car with a matress?

 

This photo is a photo of someone else strapping down ( the correct way ) a fiberglass 3W . I just used it to show the way to cross tie. I assure you ... I have 5,000 lb rachet straps. But it is my truck and trailer in the last photo.