Edelbrock #1406 help?????

Red, what robyyo is trying to determine is.....
Are you using a square-bore carburetor on a spread-bore manifold, thereby creating a vacuum leak?

A square-bore carburetor and a square-bore intake manifold have the primary throttle bores (the ones toward the front of the motor) bored to the same size as the secondary throttle bores (the ones toward the rear of the motor).

A spread-bore carburetor and a spread-bore intake manifold have the primary throttle bores smaller than the secondary throttle bores. This is to insure that the larger throttle plates on the spread-bore carburetor will not strike the intake manifold as they are opening. A bigger throttle plate needs a bigger hole in which to operate.

See this photo of a square-bore intake? If you wanted to, you could run a square-bore carburetor backwards on this intake without interference. That's because on a square-bore carburetor, both the primary and the secondary throttle bores are the same size.....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7101/

Here is basically the same manifold, but this one is designed for a spread-bore carburetor. The secondary throttle bores (the ones toward the rear of the motor) are larger than the primary throttle bores (the ones toward the front of the motor). So, if you try to run a square-bore carburetor on a spread-bore manifold, the bottom of the carburetor will not match up and you could have a vacuum leak.....
Using this spread-bore intake manifold, you could not mount a spread-bore carburetor on it backward. The large secondary throttle plates would hit on the manifold as they tried to open....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7104/

Here's a photo of the underside of a Rochester Quadrajet, a spread-bore carburetor. The primary throttle bores are tiny for good fuel mileage and the secondary throttle bores are huge for good power on demand....
http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/2007/05/01/hmn_feature20.html
Scroll to the bottom of the page and click on photo #12.

Boob mentioned a tuning manual. Here's the link to it....
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/carbs_acc/pdf/carb_owners_manual.pdf

 

I think you might be running out of gas, I think the fuel pressure should be closer to 7 psi. That is what is called for on a carbureted application.

 

One idea that has not been dealt with is the choke.It seems to me that it is not off loading after startup.Making the engine run very rich.I had a similar problem.I discovered that by turning the key on,waiting 10 seconds then starting the engine worked for me.I didn't have to adjust or change anything.I have the same carb and manifold on a different engine now and it works the same way

 

Red Devil, how much do you know about your engine? Is it stock? If rebuilt, was that back to stock? Unless some upgrades have been made internally you may find that 1406 at 600cfm is a bit large for the engine, especially if it is a used model and was setup to run on a larger engine (350,383,400). If you have access to a good 1403/1404 I would suggest giving that a try. Your engine will be happier and actually provide better fuel economy.

Summit Racing has a cool CFM calculator that can help sort out what size carb you might use. I found this one while looking at the specs on your 7101 manifold.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7101/#

 

I'm running a 1405 which is the same basic carb but without elec. choke. Its on a Performer series manifold, and I have a HEI . I find the engine runs better using the passengers side front vacuum port for the vacuum advance. This combination works great on my 350. John

 

A Holley may stand for 7 psi without blowing fuel past the needle and seat, but a Carter AFB/Edelbrock Performer will not in my experience. Shoot for 5 psi and use minimum 1/2" lines tank to carb. You want high volume, not high pressure.

 

wow

Think we should start this one over?

 

do i need the adapter plate for this set-up??? edelbrock #1406 carb and performer rpm intake????

 

It depends on the part number of the Manifold - they make a Spread Bore and a Square Bore version - no on e can answer that question without the part number or seeing the manifold - end of story

 

Very true hotroddon, i will check it out and keep you posted, thanks.....

 

hope this helps in identifying the intake and whether i need the adapter plate......it says it is an edelbrock performer rpm and carb is 1406 edelbrock........

 

That's a square bore so you're good on that end. Someone said earlier you my want to make sure the choke is off and you may want to check the vacuum diaphragm on the distributor.

 

So i can hook up the carb the way i had it, gasket carb intake, the vacuum diaphragm on the distributor , take the cap off and check it.........

 

did you watch the DVD that came with your new carburetor?
almost everything you need to know is that.
you want 5 pounds of fuel pressure
you don't need a half inch fuel line
unless you changed itor until you change ityour distributor as a smog timing curve.

 

I bought the carb used, by a guy off craigslist who sells alot of carbs and he said it was good to go , just install and you'll be set, so i am thinking maybe i bought someone elses problem, i have had the carb for awhile now.......

 

you can get it on their website

 

How are you powering the choke? You need to have a hot lad to it when you try and start the engine I use the ign lead straight from the ign switch.

 

acc on the wiring harness????

 

What year is the 283? I don't see where your pcv is hooked up. I am wondering if you are getting enough crankcase ventilation? Is there a down draft tube still in use?

 

1957-1962 as far as i saw on the numbers, and yes there was a vent draft tube i took that off and installed a pcv valve barbed with a hose connecting to the front of the carb......

 

RD,

Have you ever rebuilt a carb before?
if not its time to learn or find someone to help or do it for you...
I have never found a used carb bought from anyone that I didnt have to rebuild.

My advice is:
Buy a kit, clean, rebuild and start over...

I bet you find a lot of surprises when you open it up!

In fact you can send it to me with a kit and I'll rebuild it for you, no charge!
Send me a PM if you are interested

 

i just might have to do that.........

 

That may be your problem. I'm running the same setup as you and mine works great. I don't use a choke, but that's because of the weather here. I run Edelbrocks fuel pump and it's 6psi. Which is what their carbs are set for. I run my fuel screws 2 turns out. My distributer vac hose comes off the non-emission side. PLUG the other side. My engine idles at 650 under load and about 800 in park.

Check your settings again. If that fails, the carb may need a rebuild. If I bought one used, I'd rebuild it. The rebuild kit is cheap and it's just good peace of mind.

 

i will do that...... good new kit and maybe i can finally cruise somewhere in my old chevy..........so tfeverfred you run your dist. vac hose to the driver side port and 2 turn out on the screws.........

 

Oh yeah, the craigslists good to go deal. I bought an edelbrock carb from there same deal "good to go" would not even run ,pulled it apart and the excellerator pump was torn in half. So yours probably needs a rebuild to.

 

yeah really 55/98........lol

 

Yup.

 

I don't run a choke, so on REALLY cold mornings (hardly none in Houston) I let her run for about 2-3 minutes, then I'm off to the street! I could probably run my screws in a little more, but I'm happy with it like it is. I played with it and when I found the sweet spot, I put the tools away.

 

Throw it in the weeds and get a holley

 

I was wondering how long that would take^^^^