home made tools and equipment...

This is by far one of the most amazingly simple yet effective things I've seen. I've been welding all this time and have always cussed about dragging a light into the inside of a car or dark place that I'm welding in. I can't believe i never thought of this. Well played sir!

 

Just curious, what effect does this have on the life of the flashlight?

 

Just stock up on the freebie flashlights you get with the coupon from their ads. I have half a dozen of them now.

 

Ha! Hadn't thought of that. I've got a bunch of those, too. Guess I was thinking more of quality rather than quantity.

 

These are some of the machines I made.

 

Here are some other items I made. The sand blast cabinet is out of an old oil tank. I made my grinder stand to swivel. My body tools are close at hand with a moving stand.

 

Very nice! Do you have a site with more detail on the bead roller?

 

I may come across as a curmudgeon but a rolling rack in a small building is a mistake. Better to bolt racks to the wall. I know this from experience. But if you must do it, design it so the long pieces are standing vertical.

 

I started with a Harbor Freight bead roller. I then got a gear drive motor off E-bay. It has a forward and revers. I made new roller arms longer. Then used 1/4 plate for the frame.

 

I have the same Dayton gear motor. It is reversible, but does not have forward and reverse built into it.

I would be interested in knowing how you wired it to achieve the forward and reverse. And how you operate it, likely with a foot pedal.

I have found this a problem with these posts, people share pictures of what they built, but will rarely share details of how they did it.

Little things like wiring etc.

 

The answer to your wiring question may be here: http://www.google.com/#hl=en&sugexp...60d5217a93fe50&bpcl=35277026&biw=1016&bih=556

 

Thanks for the site on the wiring ! It's things like that sure can help.

 

For some reason that link is incomplete and just sends me directly to Googles home page.

Lets try it again.

http://www.google.com/#hl=en&sugexp...60d5217a93fe50&bpcl=35277026&biw=1016&bih=556

Edit, No it doesnt work. And I have no desire to search for something I have searched many times and not found.

Especially when it would be a simple thing for someone who has done it to say - "I did it this way" .

 

This may help you. This is off the site from notgettinrich

 

As you can see, The DP-DT sw is located close the the adjustment wheel. I'm also using a foot pedal wired through the in coming power.

 

I've been using one of the HF freebies on my mig for quite a while and other than wiping off the soot every once in a while it shows no damage.

 

That flashlight is a good trick; I am always trying to get more light in there when welding. The hanger too.

 

Thanks, but I can't read what that is between the blue and black wires.
I tried blowing the diagram up but it gets really unreadable.

 

This may do it.

 

Yes, if I could read it Blowing this one up also makes it unreadable.

 

I'll give it a try. First you need to look at your motor wiring diagram. It is usually on the
data plate or sometimes on the inside of access cover. If the motor is reversible, you will find in most cases there are two wires that are switched between the "line in's" to change
rotation, such as for CCW rotation you connect L1, 1, & 8 and L2, 3, & 5 and for CW rotation you connect L1, 1, & 5 and L2, 3, & 8. In this example wire 5 and 8 are switched to change the rotation. To add a reversing switch you would run wires 5 and 8 to the center connections of a double throw-double throw toggle switch, then run the two connections on one end of the switch to L1 and L2 (which still need to connect to 1 & 3 respectively), and finally add two jumper wires from that end of the switch to the two connections on the other end, crossing them so they look like an "X". With the toggle in one position the motor will run CW and with the switch un the other position it will run
CCW. They make DPDT switches without a center position for this application.
Then just run the main power through the foot pedal and use the toggle to select direction.
Hope I got this straight and it makes sense to somebody.

 

Drawing it out into a clear readable diagram would be great

 

I've got a question for those that have modified HF bead rollers. I have a Woodard Fab roller on the way and suspect I will need to stiffen it up. I already have some 2x2 square material to use as bracing, but I will have to have a welding shop weld them on since I don't have a stick welder. The question is should I be concerned about warpage at all? The main body is supposed to be 1/2" thick.

I've noticed some people weld the bracing on solid and others just weld spots. Any advise?

 

Here is a rough diagram, of course your motor wire numbers may differ.

 

Anything you weld will draw up. The trick is in allowing for the draw. I welded my tubing up first and allowed a little extra so that when it finished shrinking it was almost square. Then, I welded it to the frame. You only need to weld it in a few spots to get the stiffness you need. If you weld it solid, it will put a curve in your frame. Guaranteed.

Look at my pictures for an idea of how much you need to weld it to the frame. This is plenty adequate.

 

I agree with stich welding it, however what you said about welding it solid is not true.

Distortion from welding can be managed by a couple of methods.

The easiest way is to do the welding equally on each side. If you weld 4" on one side ,then you weld 4" on the other side directly opposite where you started.

By properly balancing your welding side to side you can control distortion and keep the frame straight.

I have done it all my working life and on many things bigger and far more complicated than a bead roller frame.

 

Thanks, that will help very much. I'll probably post my results when I build my bead roller soon here. It will be a modified Magnum bead roller, they are similar to the Woodward ones.

I'll beef it up and mount my Dayton motor on it.

 

Whats the model number on those little daytons?

 

Here is a link for one I just purchased. It is supposed to be delivered today. As soon as I get it running on my bead roller I will update as well.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-AC-Gearmotor-1LPY9

 

Holly Crap,,, 400 Buck's.
Should go thank my wife,,, I just found two of them cleaning out my garage. Didn't know why they had so Meany wires coming out of the hosing,, I do know. MINT!