If your block if repairable, and I do believe it is, get it fixed. You will be able to reuse all of your internals in the same position that they came from. I know this is basic engine building stuff but if all your parts have worn in together, keep them that way. You'll have a happier engine when it's reassembled and far less cost. Go scrounge up another head that will match the busted one. You'll have a few hundred in machine shop work and a gasket set.
I know they are very different animals but drag racers weld fist sized holes in they're blocks. Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
So I'm not a machining wizard or anything...but I do remember a street rod article that had a flat head with similar damage. They drilled tapped and ran bolts in different directions along the cracks and machined off the ends. Just a though.... Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
Thanks everyone it's good to here something positive and helpful I will keep the block and internals as a spare motor for my roadster if I need it one day but am looking forward to an overhead valve motor in my shoebox maybe this was a blessing in disguise
Thought about it before but never did it. You sold me on another temp gauge for my flattie... Good safety!
I have to agree with both of these gentleman, and I have been doing repairs like that all of my life. In addition to the sleeve and the seat, pinning or stitching as I refer to it is done with IronTite cast iron threaded pins. A bottle of Moroso Ceramic Engine Seal, and " bobs your uncle ".
Back in the seventies and eighties we would do what Traditions Racing would do! Stitch it valve seats, and a sleeve!....don't forget to read the instructions on the ceramic sealer!
I had two of those same cracks fixed on mine ( look up stitch lock repair.com) I am running valves over the repairs in valve seats, I did not replace the seats! the sleeves cost me 100.00 plus labor. the machinist told me I could run the rings over the repairs If I was going to bore the block. I went back standard bore,I had new pistons for free. Luck in your repairs mine worked out great. Tony
i have a good idea for you bro just give up on it and wrap it up for me for xmas haha, then i can say i got a flatty for xmas, and zef is right ur shed is messy but not as messy as mine is atm , hey these things happen anyone here have any pics of the stitching method im very interested to see how this is achieved?????
I'm very interested to know what problems could have caused one cylinder bank to overheat, other than a head gasket? How does a water pump not work? Any other ideas?
You might investigate a method called stitching.Their claim is that it is better than welding. I my opinion I have seen too many flatheads with a lot of money invested only to fail at a most inconvenent time. Plus a lot of flatty gurus offer no warrantee what so ever.
I'm also interested in this too , I was thinking a stuck thermostat on that bank at first ,, I'm pulling the motor out this weekend and will take the water pump off to see what it's doing , any other ideas?? Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
have a read of this article...lots of pics to show how to do it. http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...pp_1203_cast_iron_cylinder_head_crack_repair/ not the same situation I know .. but the process is the same... it's a relatively easy fix.. sleeve the cylinder & new valve seat & you should be good to go.
I'm pretty sure that system was originally developed by Repco. So it should be available in Australia. Edit. Nevermind... Just noticed you are in Australia too...
Stitching has been used on flatheads since the 60s or before. I remember it used to be called MetalLock here in NZ.
dam right dude , haha all u need is a needle and thread, Tigmaster , tell us all how to achieve repairs on em?????????
Dude if it was mine Id pin it, add a new sleeve, seat and GO. Not only will it be fine but will be way cheaper than a new block which will likely need , magging, tanking, all seats redoing, boring and honing, a slight deck cleanup etc not to mention the porting. Pin it and GO, no brainer. Rat
Possibly wacky 2c; I can't stop thinking about the airflow across that bumper & over that sweet grille. I wonder how much air gets thru & into the radiator @ highway speeds. Looks to me that grille may 'slide' a lot of air straight over the bonnet. This is based only on viewing from 6' height so may be a false lead & if a problem, probably would have shown up on the drive over anyway.
Hmm maybe but it is basically the stock grille without the bullets but maybe the opening the temp was pretty good on the trip and I like the grille to much to change it Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad