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Customs School me on door poppers...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Ryan, Oct 10, 2012.

  1. Ryan
    Joined: Jan 2, 1995
    Posts: 21,671

    Ryan
    ADMINISTRATOR
    Staff Member

    I know, elementary question for most... But I've never had a car with shaved handles and have always figured poppers were just an added complication that I don't need in my life. But, I sort of want to shave the handles on my Rivi.

    So, what's the best way to go about this both electronically and with a mechanical fail safe?

    Be easy on me... I'm a virgin.
     
  2. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,152

    Anderson
    Member

    Do a search.

    :D
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2012
  3. msalamanca
    Joined: May 25, 2011
    Posts: 526

    msalamanca
    Member

    Classic!!!!!!!
     
  4. falconsprint63
    Joined: May 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,358

    falconsprint63
    Member
    from Mayberry

    now that's playing with fire :D

     

  5. zkilla396
    Joined: Mar 4, 2009
    Posts: 92

    zkilla396
    Member
    from Peoria, IL

    My dad did a set on his '50 chevy sedan delivery; seems like he had them installed in a weekend or so, nothing too hard. Few wires need to be run and you use a remote fob like modern cars have for locks. Seemed like it was fairly reasonably priced as well.

    I'm not too sure on the mechanical fail safe though....sorry.
     
  6. That is a classic response, however I too would like some info on this. I have shaved door handles on my '50 and count on the reach through the window method of opening the doors. Functional, but not the best idea. Someone pleae show us how to do it.
     
  7. Doctor Detroit
    Joined: Aug 12, 2010
    Posts: 1,051

    Doctor Detroit
    Member

    I knew if I just waited for someone else to ask this same question, I wouldn't have to catch the hell.


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     
  8. Priceless!


    Ryan,

    My old 51 had shaved handles and poppers, the previous owner had a pull handle uder the hood that would open the drivers door in case there was an issue. You can hide it anywhere.
     
  9. I have always wondered if the latch portion is in the door how does the cable get routed to wherever you end up placing it? Do you just run it through the door jamb with a flexible conduit like a wire loom?
     
  10. any setup you use upgrade the cable to larger size and be sure if you have to go around a 90 degree curve with cable use some copper tubing. as far as brand to use: the stock O.E.M. ones from the rear doors of vehicle from your local wrecker. Grab any wiring and switches.
     
  11. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  12. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,453

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    Not traditional.



    (running and hiding)
     
  13. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,453

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    That's one way to do it. The other way is to use electrical contacts on the jamb and the door, so that when the door is closed, the electrical contacts "make" and you have power.
     
  14. msalamanca
    Joined: May 25, 2011
    Posts: 526

    msalamanca
    Member

    I saw in a search on here before that you can use a bicycle brake cable for the manual. Route it thru the the door into the wheel well
     
  15. flatheadpete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2003
    Posts: 10,484

    flatheadpete
    Member
    from Burton, MI

    I shy away from cables as an attachment between the latch and 'popper'. A rod in a straight as possible path is way stronger. As for a fails safe....that's where a wire comes in. From the latch thru sheet metal and a key ring to grasp and pull. If I can do it, anyone can!
     
  16. wallyringo
    Joined: May 19, 2010
    Posts: 710

    wallyringo
    Member

    x2 i need this info to please.
     
  17. deto
    Joined: Jun 26, 2010
    Posts: 2,620

    deto
    Member

    Oh boy... Well x2 on the cable. My friend ran his into the engine compartment as well.


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     
  18. slddnmatt
    Joined: Mar 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,685

    slddnmatt
    Member

    I call poppers the spring loaded buttons that pop the door out so you can grab ahold of it;). for the selonoids I would use the rod between the latch and selonoid as mentioned. On the old latches i usually run the heavier pounded selonoids. A rivi latch might be a bit smoother operating.

    Im installing a mechanical fail safe pull on a 40 merc tomorrow. they can be fun, Im using wire rope through a flexible cable line like a bike hand brake or you can get fancy and bend up some brakeline and run it through that. the biggest issues i've had are when the door pivots open on some applications (like this merc) the door pivots in a close radius and if you have the cable to tight it really pulls and binds the cable, and to loose it doesn't do a damn thing. the straighter the line the better the pull..
     
  19. Not to difficult with bearclaws, did it on the '50 coupe and in the process on the '36 PU, Rocky Hinge has a pretty sweet setup. If you are keeping the stock latches it may be more interesting. The mechanical safety cable is definately a good idea........btw is that Rivi Hamb freindly?;)
     
  20. Sinister
    Joined: Jan 19, 2004
    Posts: 710

    Sinister
    Member
    from Oregon

    Remote gas door and trunk popper cables are already sheathed with the nubbins on the ends. Just thinking out loud...
     
  21. choptvan
    Joined: Mar 19, 2010
    Posts: 2,161

    choptvan
    Member

    auto loc has some great stuff. poke around on there for a bit. They have a cable safety release that has a lock built into it. So your car is still secure in case someone finds that cool little cable. If you do electronic, I rec doing a battery cutoff switch accessable to you outside the car. Just leave the stereo memory hot. It will kill the rest. No getting in at all then. Also. last thing. If you shave everything, and the battery is in the trunk, relocate some jumper posts under the car where you can get a set of cables on them. just for that BS incident that could just happen on a day, when the HAMB is down, someone made a post about another damn body swap or R/R, and you just have to get to the office. Just sayin.
     
  22. hotrd32
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,561

    hotrd32
    Member
    from WA

    Well if you put the button under the running boards...the tip of your shoes get dirty....
     
  23. nutbush
    Joined: Jul 7, 2006
    Posts: 264

    nutbush
    Member
    from Texas

    *edit*
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2012
  24. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
    Posts: 7,366

    corncobcoupe
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Don't Fuck the Rivi up trying.

    Try on another POS car until you get it right.
     
  25. fastcar1953
    Joined: Oct 23, 2009
    Posts: 3,617

    fastcar1953
    Member

  26. thesupersized
    Joined: Aug 22, 2004
    Posts: 1,367

    thesupersized
    Member

    door solenoids are period correct...a lot of old customs had them.
     
  27. fastcar1953
    Joined: Oct 23, 2009
    Posts: 3,617

    fastcar1953
    Member

  28. big creep
    Joined: Feb 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,944

    big creep
    Member

    early vw starter solenoids work best, and do, do a cable through to the firewall as a secondary if it fails. and make sure you can lock the hood too. yea its a lot of work but its well worth the look if you want it.
     
  29. Thats why we use magnetic switches on top of relays. You can hide the switch aywhere, just swipe a magnet near it, and they open. I have had guys crawl all over the cars to find a button :D
     
  30. big creep
    Joined: Feb 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,944

    big creep
    Member

    ryan this may help? dont use the autoloc set. but this guy gives you an idea of what to do. but if not you will laugh at this dude.

    http://youtu.be/VmFDzA5ohyc
     

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