What's the mc bore? With the volume needed for 4 wheel discs it might not be enough? Does it take a lot of effort to stop or a lot of pumping? What's the pedal ratio? Prop valve? Residual valves? Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Do you have any pedal Ed??? Is it a new master? Did you replace all the brake lines??? How did you bleed em? The way I was taught was to set the car up on jack stands, fill the master res. with fluid, then open all the bleeders. When the fluid starts freely running out, tighten bleeders. Refill master and you should be good to go. This process can take a while to work as any air bubbles will have to work their way through the lines. Just be patient. I was also told to NOT pump the brakes when bleeding as this can cause more bubbles to form. Just apply steady pressure as someone else opens and closes the bleeder.
Disc brakes require more pressure to operate than drums, I'd suggest a power booster, or get used to high effort on the pedal.
Check out this page. It has a chart showing the different bore size pressures and pedal ratios. http://www.mpbrakes.com/technical-support/reference-master-cylinders.cfm
it takes alot of effort to stop it. dont know, dont have one, dont have them either.i was told i didnt need all that with a swinging pedal.i'm not a brake man, but i will figger this out!
Ed, I've got a 1" bore master cyl. with my disc/drum set up on MISCONSTUDE. I spent a lot of time talking to the people at SSbrakes. They were very helpful. The ratio on the pedal has a lot to do with pedal feel.
Bench bleed the MC beforehand. All that is left is doing the lines. Start with the wheel furthest away from MC and then the net closet and so forth and so on until all 4 wheels have been bled.
I also have a couple of cars (OK, 60's Corvettes) that have non-power 4 wheel disc brakes. They take a little extra effort, but once you get used to them, they seem normal. They probably weigh just about as much as the Studebaker.
according to master power brakes co. i may need to use the ford explorer master cyl. and booster. they say it has a longer piston stroke to feed the rear disc properly. i'm calling them today.
make sure your bleeder screws are on top on all four calipers. sometimes it is just a right-to-left screwup.
If it takes alot of effort to stop it, and you have a firm pedal, you're gonna need either a booster, or a higher pedal ratio.