im using 2x3 3/16 tubing. cutting it with a h.f. 14" abrasive saw. the issue im getting is im cutting it on its side to get my angles right. with a new disc i can get thru the top flat and sides but the disc dulls out on the bottom flat. i have to let the metal cool and put on new disc. i was using the h.f. discs so i got some 10 dollar ones from dewalt from lowes and exactly the same. i know i should get a netal specific low speed saw with a metal disc but i had these. im cutting 9 joints so i guess i should go ahead and get one but i thought i would ask for help.
wrong type of saw for the project. for what you paid in abrasive blades you could have bought a portaband saw and been done and have a good tool as well for future projects. I bought mine used on cl for 75. its also way cleaner to operate with no dust to sweep up after.
use a 4.5" cut off wheel on your grinder.. when your cutting a large flat area, the blade will heat up on thick stuff and glaze over.
Cutting flat with a chop saw is a challenge -- I have found it best to use an intermittant approach -- when the metal gets hot I lift until it cools, the push down again. Keeping the saw running helps cool things off. If you wait too long to lift the blade will glaze over and quit making sparks, then you have to let things cool and try again, possibly even use a different piece of metal to deglaze the edge. Think of it like "stitch" welding -- cut, cool, cut,etc. Whenever possible cut the thin way, but when not possible, cut smart. Band saws are great for cutting steel -- if you can afford one. I don't have one yet.
can a portaband saw cut 2x3 in the middle of a long stick or will the back of the unit hit the other section before its thru.
I agree with the rest, you SHOULD have the proper saw. BUT you don't so use what you have. You said you only have nine cuts? Cut as far as you can, useing the same wheel for several cuts, THEN put on a new wheel and finish the cuts. That way the full sized wheel is ONLY finishing.
When I made my english wheel, I had been looking for a good way to make some accurate 22-1/2 degree angled cuts, and just didn't feel comfortable with the accuracy using the 4-1/2" grinder with cutoff wheels. The best thing I had to work with was my trusty 12" dewalt miter saw, but all the cold saw blades at my local welding supply were only good to about 1800-2000 rpm. Some web searches and phone calls finally put me in touch with Cut Technologies in Bellingham WA. They have a cold cut saw blade that would handle the rpm's and material, so he said. At the $160 price tag, I was keeping my fingers crossed. After the first cut, the blade was still cold to the touch! Pieces mocked up.....worked real well!
Put a block in front of the tubing to move it back towards you. An abrasive saw cuts best when it's cutting downward.
Position the work on the bed so that you won't be cutting as much flat material. Run across this lots of times. Also, if blade becomes clogged, and they will on large flats, use a piece of cement block to re-surface the blade. It will clean the clogged edges.
If you have the $ and the need, check out the Milwaukee 14" Metal Cut-off Saw (# 6190-20 at Northern tool). You get rid of the grit and smell of the abrasive cut saw, you won't believe the speed (I built a welding table with 4" H beam was able to make a cut thru the beam in less than a minute). One of the best purchases I have made.
My metal devil would cout that with ease.... http://www.mkmorse.com/products/index.aspx?product=74 Video here... http://www.mkmorse.com/resources_videos.html http://mkmorse.com/
Like every one said the abrasive wheel LOADS up ,If you can find a Norbide stick .touch it to the disc while running to unload build up on the blade,after that it will have a fresh edge & cut good. Or a poor boy way take a old disk & put it on the cutting edge while running & it will clear the abrasive & cut well. Hope this helped I t will clear the load up problem.
On a abrasive saw you need to keep a good load on the blade to keep it cutting ,babying it just loads up the cutting edge and glazes it. Then it takes a lot of pressure to to get it cutting again. Cut many many foot of steel with mine. They do make a mess though.
Bushman 167, is correct. I have one also. Here is my low speed cold saw, 14 inch blade. $280.00 Cast base, smooth straight cut. The 14 inch blade has a 140 thousands wide cut. Cuts 5 inch dia tubing, flat stock up tp 7 7/8 wide http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200326857_200326857
There is alot of differances in blades try one for De Walt. If you have an old grinder stone cutting on it will help put a new edge on your blade.
make shur the blade is for a chop saw. they make different blades for hand held partner saws. they dont work as good as ones for chop saws. also when cutting on a flat i sometimes roll the tubing up slightly to keep cutting on an edge. or when you get to the bottom roll the tubing up to cut down through the side. in other words make the bottom the side and cut down through.
Geez, everybodys so into chop saws Im almost afraid to post this...once you use a the HF small horizontal band saw (still about $200) it is so nice and accurate it will make a chop saw (yes I have one too) seem like an axe.
Using a chop saw to cut in the flat position is always a bad deal. However, if you are having the dreaded blade won't cut issue, just take a piece of bar stock, 1/4 works well, use the thin edge and place it against the blade while the blade is turning. It will knock the glaze off and let the blade start cutting again. Just be careful.
Loads of good experience here. Thanks for the tips guys. I always try to have 2-3 teeth working the metal thickness in choosing a blade. Too few and they break off, too many and its either slow or loads up.
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