Who else still hammer welds?

18 gauge draw quality aluminum quenched steel.
what exactly should I ask my steel supplier for ?
I'll stress exact.

Well I googled it:
http://www.google.com/search?mmns=0...18+gauge+draw+quality+aluminum+quenched+steel

And couldn't find it. But this thread was #1 hit.

 

It is also known as Aluminum killed or AK steel. Not sure about Ohio but I basically got told no chance by my steel supplier unless you want to buy like 100 sheets. Maybe if you have some factories that do deep draw forming near by you could pick some up from them.

 

K13 is correct, it is aluminum killed or silicon killed...
believe it or not you really don't need it as it is too soft.
Make sure your supplier can tell you the carbon content.
From Wikipedia...

• Mild (low carbon) steel: approximately 0.05% to 0.26% carbon content with up to 0.4% manganese content<sup id="cite_ref-kts_0-0" class="reference">[1]</sup> (e.g. AISI 1018 steel). Less strong but cheap and easy to shape; surface hardness can be increased through carburizing.<sup id="cite_ref-1" class="reference">[2]</sup>

I use this: A366/1008 or 1010
This alloy is generally used for "commercial quality" cold rolled steel sheet. It is known for its very good formability and comparatively high strength. It has a very good surface finish that is far superior to hot rolled A36.

I was told the same thing for access to AK or SK....didn't need a spool weighing who knows??

 

Thanks !
I have some drops 16 ga steel here that is so hard I can't bend it. (About 50 pieces 10"x14") put it in the brake and it snaps. Bead roller and it does the same. I don't know what that crap is but its going to do what I thought.

I have some 18 ga left overs from some patch panel drops that's so soft I think I could almost chew it. I can beat the hell out of that stuff and make almost anything I want but it welds funny.

The full sheets I generally get are in the middle on that scale but its definitely not as malleable as the Henry tin.

 

Thanks for all the thoughts on this art!

 

This just in for you O/A types, cost of 'cety is on the way down, but not as fast as it rose. According to an annoymous source, the "plant is back up and running", but the prices aren't dropping as fast as he thought. When I inquired as to cost, he said wait as long as I dare because it is continuously dropping. It's gone from a recent $240 for a commercial size bottle down to approx $160. By comparison my big argon bottle was $40. Film at 11:00...

 

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YES hammer welding is dead. BUT-I do not agree with you on- T.I.G welding process? NOTE-you can use LEAD TECHNIQUE with tig if you need it. In the U.S. we have I-CAR. -SCHOOL T.I.G is what it is. Also M.H.O.

" Real hot rods don't have fenders"

 

Bobbykid,can you pleez explain what you mean,LEAD TECH with Tig,thanks! Gaz!

 

I don't communicate well, so here it is.
I just grabbed a scrap piece and sheared it. It was kinda twised but flat at the seam.
The first couple pics show the tacking, i show both side of the tack so you can see it is 100%, i put the dime up there for size. There are 2 spots that problem but you don't linger. You hit high amperage roll the tungesten across the seam and get off the heat, move and repeat. That entire tacking took less than a minute.
I have the machine set at 80% of the 250amp range and i use all of the pedal when i tack.
There is a pic edgewise. Gage the distortion for yourself. Remember, the sheet was scrap, i straigtened it around where i welded.
When i weld it is very quick, heat is very high - i was maybe 1/2 on the pedal, maybe less. I stike an arc, see shiney metal and start moving quickly, the fast i go the further down the pedal.
I didn't practice, so the weld has a couple warts. I didn't work the metal after the tacks and didn't touch up those 2 spots. You can see how narrow and consistant the haz, it is done in pretty much 1 motion. The edgewise pic show how little distortion and uniform the weld is.

 

Thank you oj!

 

Reading this got me thinking about my grandfathers torch. I found it today! I'd put it away years ago. The cutting attachment is a Victor 650-J. The rest is unmarked. Anyone know what the small one in my hand is. I really like it. I think I'll get it all rebuilt if that's possible.

 

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I have one just like it, and it's a '' Victor ". Tinbender, my guess would be get a couple of tanks, hook that thing up, and I bet it works. They're pretty much bullet-proof. Check the hoses, of course.


" Real hot rods don't have fenders "

 

Excellent OJ! Thanks for that...

 

Yeah the larger torch worked 10 years ago. That's when I switched to the Henrob. The victor tip won't fit on the small torch. I'll take um by the welding shop and see if I can get tips. I'm still using the regulators that came with this set. Story was it was "liberated" from an air base when WW2 ended

 

Any input on what the differences might be in the steel I've described?

 

Hi again, some info. best tin for most body panels is 19 ga AK. actual name is aluminum killed drawing quality sheet steel. in california it is available at modesto steel in modesto. phone # 209 5265306. good outfit! they stock in 23, 20, 19, and 18 gauge current prices 18ga-$ 63.60 and 19ga is $58.73. if you need to have sheets cut you will have to call ahead 4 or 5 days. they will ship anywhere. this could get expensive!!! great stuff! been using for years. hope this helps! old, opinionated , beat-up tinguy,PaulBragg see ya !!!!

 

Well took some doing but I did find it.
19GA. AKDQ ( aluminium killed draw quality)steel.
There's minimum charges involved so I'm still not sure on exact pricing.
Certain supplier wanted 221.00 for 1 4x8 . One day lead time
Different supplier said that if I got 2 sheets it would be 125.00 each. Two days lead time.

58.73 quoted above doesn't say what size sheet

 

That seems like a "fuck you we don't want to be bothered but if you really want it we are going to bend you over price"

I found a guy online who sells english wheels who is selling 4 x 6' sheets for about $70 and I would guess he is making a profit so your supplier wants nothing to do with this sale.

 

This "technique" may work for you guys, but it cannot be described even remotely as hammer welding.
As you put these pieces together do you have any issues with keeping the alignment of the edges?

 

You can call Stock Car Steel if you are in an area where there are no manufactureres using DQAK steel. They will sell it at 4 X 4 half sheet if you want. They ship it between two pieces of masonite to keep it straight. The biggest cost though is the shipping. It's a way lot higher than the price of the steel.

NOTICE I stated CALL. You can't find everything you want on the internet. Sometimes you have to pick up one of theose antique things called telephone and just call them. They can get whatever gauge or composition you want.

 

They only show 24 gauge on their website.

 

hi again, prices i mentioned were 4x8 sheets as far as i know. they told me last batch they got in was actually 47and 5/8 inches wide on the 19 ga. obviously you have to deal local if possible. you may not believe this, my local clown quoted me $1200 for a single sheet a couple of years ago !!!!! i don't mind a guy making a profit, but what the hell??? if i can figure out how to post some photos i will offer another suggestion on welded seams. see ya!!!! ancient, fucked up tinguy ! paul bragg by the way Hi bob glad to see you are still above ground ! i'm coming up on 73! hang in there!!

 

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Hi Paul, Yep, I'm still above ground and still working on hot rods. Where did the time go? Hopefully I'll you at one of the local meets. You're going to be 73? Can you believe it?!

Yes, if you can post photos, it would show the beautiful work you've done throughout your career.

'' Real hot rods don't have fenders "

 

I hooked up grandpas old Victor. Only had an 0 tip so I went with that. Put in this little floor patch. due to the replacement floor being too short. Didn't take long. Used some rod, but far less than I have been. I think I'll save the MIG for plug welds!

 

Just a shot in the dark but it might be a smith

 

Thaks. I'm not the best but was taught by a guy I consider an artist and who has done some phenomenal work with the torch method. He taught me hammer welding and shrinking all in the same lesson and they really overlapped because we were closing up bullet holes and some of them were only a divot, not actually a hole.
I have also taught a few people other types of welding, more specifically stick welding. When I was working on heavy equipment, I had guys who came out of welding school and barely knew it made a bright flash. This is kind of going down a rabbit trail and taking my own thread off topic but we were doing stuff like repairing broken goose necks in Cat scrapers so believe me I understand the thermodynamics of a shrinking weld and keeping something straight as you go.
I have also had kids come out of high school who learned pretty well on wire feed and plasma cutter but had never picked up a torch or stick welder and it was then I realized there were some pretty good welders that just hadn't ever been exposed to older techniques. This has turned out to be a great thread and it's good to see so many good tips and variations to the process.

 

Atta' boy Tinbender...you know what they say!..."If ya can't stand the heat, get outta da' kitchen"!

 

No, this is not hammerwelding. Early in this thread i described this process and a poster asked for that demo.
The difficult thing with fusion welding is fitment. I let (my mistake) the alignment drift in that illustration, that caused those 2 spots i referred to.
I am relocating the filler neck on a gas tank and am filling in the original hole, maybe i can remember to snap a pic or two and then i can show a practical demonstration.
The basic technique i learned from David Gardner ('Mindover' on the hamb) he gas welds the same way. When i saw how even and consistant his haz was it was obvious that the distortion is minimal. I applied his principles to tig and played with the high heat.