Register now to get rid of these ads!

Stripping chrome

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Irishman, Sep 13, 2012.

  1. gatz
    Joined: Jun 2, 2011
    Posts: 1,822

    gatz
    Member

    OK, thanks for taking the time to explain; I'll definitely discuss the process with the plater before doing the mod.
     
  2. The actual thickness of the total plating job is a few thousandths. Chances are your bolts and nuts do not have so precise fit tolerance that it would be a problem. I would have the bolts plated with the rest just for the extra corrosion protection. Worse case is you can run a die over them if the threads are too oversize.
     
  3. jcapps
    Joined: Dec 30, 2008
    Posts: 473

    jcapps
    Member
    from SoCal

    I always bring them to the chromer to be stripped if I am going to do mods or stud the bumpers.
    I usually stud the bumpers myself but this last time the chrome shop I used said they would stud all of the bolts holes (26 os so) for $200. Saved me hours of finishing prep
     
  4. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,429

    Squablow
    Member

    Talk to your plater BEFORE welding any bolts onto your bumpers. I used to work at a plating shop and we turned a few bumpers away as well as some other parts that had been "worked over" by the owners in an attempt to save some money.

    Common mistake to make, but most shops will want to do that work themselves rather than trust a customer to do it. Same with stripping and prep. Virtually every piece we had come in that had been pre-prepped ended up costing more than if they would have just brought it in as-is and had us do it.
     
  5. Lone Star Mopar
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 3,830

    Lone Star Mopar
    Member

    I'd been told by a local Chrome shop never to sandblast parts I wanted to have chromed... Should have asked em to elaborate, anyone else ever heard this ?
     
  6. stuart in mn
    Joined: Nov 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,412

    stuart in mn
    Member

    For the same reason mentioned by others - it will take a lot more time to prepare the part for chroming because it will be rough from the sandblasting.
     
  7. ChromePlaterJosh
    Joined: Feb 15, 2009
    Posts: 667

    ChromePlaterJosh
    Member


    Well said.

    Regarding the threads on studded bumpers. Always have them taped up. The plating at the tip of the studs will be very thick. What most don't know is that the plating is thicker at high points and thinner in low points. It is the nature of electroplating.

    This is why most bumpers rust out from the recessed backsides. The whole bumper is immersed and has the current flowing through the entire part, yet the the recessed areas of the back get much less plating.

    Most untrained bumper studder/modifyers will overgrind their welds trying to remove the porosity in the welds; only making things much worse. Bringing up a low spot correctly for plating is extremely difficult and time consuming.


    edit: as far as to sandblast or not to blast, that is really on a part by part basis. The plater cannot possibly fully explain which parts in general should or should not be blasted and how within a short conversation, so they just say not to do it. Virtually all bumpers get blasted; they are thick and tough. The grinding they require for refinishing will wipe out coarse sandblasting without issue.
     
  8. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 9,214

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    My chromer just had the bars sandblasted to remove all the loose scale before they went into the tank for stripping. Absolutely like brand new now. Bear in mind that a good triple plating job is not cheap. Lots of work and time as stated goes into a good job that lasts.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.