Register now to get rid of these ads!

*"Tis the last rose of summer"* The Sept. 2012 Banger Meet

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Crazydaddyo, Sep 2, 2012.

  1. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,113

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    I was very happy when my cranky ex-wife no longer got support... she was pretty far from the center of reality......
     
  2. I am right there with you Brother!!

    Personally, I think she had a few too many crossed wires..................
     
  3. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,113

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    You knew her too?
     
  4. BCCHOPIT
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,601

    BCCHOPIT
    Member

    Btt
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Timberbeast
    Joined: Jun 28, 2009
    Posts: 74

    Timberbeast
    Member


    RICH: Do you know what kind of rod he used on your head, I'd like to give it a try on some cast farm equipment,

    Jerry
     
  6. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 10,020

    RichFox
    Member Emeritus

    He said he used nickle rod in a stick welder
     
  7. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,113

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    Rich

    You can run some Irontite in the engine to cover the chance you've a pinhole leak once it's running
     
  8. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 10,020

    RichFox
    Member Emeritus

    I'm just hoping it doesn't fall out when it has hot gas on one side and cool water on the other. Sometime in the past someone did an excellent job of welding a patch into this same port. He is probably long gone now. But he was a heck of a craftsman. I would liked to have seen how he did it.
     
  9. Johnny Nitro
    Joined: Sep 28, 2005
    Posts: 95

    Johnny Nitro
    Member
    from Chicago

    Looking good, everyone!

    Got the fuel lines on my banger all plumbed the other night. Do you think 3/8 is too big?;)
     

    Attached Files:

  10. JEM
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 1,040

    JEM
    Member

    Now I know why he hasn't had time to get to the snouts on my Cortina hubs for the past week and a half ;)
     
  11. Timberbeast
    Joined: Jun 28, 2009
    Posts: 74

    Timberbeast
    Member

    Thanks Rich
     
  12. Fly'n Kolors
    Joined: Sep 21, 2008
    Posts: 407

    Fly'n Kolors
    Member

  13. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,343

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    Time to drop the pan and check your clearances.

    .
     
  14. TV
    Joined: Aug 28, 2002
    Posts: 1,451

    TV
    Member

    Thats really funny!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
     
  15. Fly'n Kolors
    Joined: Sep 21, 2008
    Posts: 407

    Fly'n Kolors
    Member

    "Knock-Knock-Knock"
     
  16. RobC
    Joined: Sep 20, 2011
    Posts: 117

    RobC
    Member
    from Australia

    Can anyone comment on the succes or failure rate of crack repair in the B and C blocks. I'm talking those radiating from the exhaust valve seat area.

    I'm looking at a short motor with head but am wary. It's been sleeved back to std too.

    [​IMG]

    Cheers,
    Rob
     
  17. You forgot the BANG, before the knock, knock, knock.
     
  18. I'd prefer not to but I'm building one with a single crack repair at the moment with my fingers crossed - I'll let you know...
     
  19. RobC
    Joined: Sep 20, 2011
    Posts: 117

    RobC
    Member
    from Australia

    G'day Monkeybiker,

    One crack I don't think I'd worry too much about, four out of four has me concerned, especially the couple of long ones to the right of the photo.

    Cheers,
    Rob
     
  20. jakeknapp29
    Joined: Aug 16, 2009
    Posts: 40

    jakeknapp29
    Member

    I got some lettering and numbering done on my speedster a few weeks ago. I also had my exhaust header coated. Turned out pretty good I think. I'm getting her ready to run the Newport Hill Climb next month!
     

    Attached Files:

  21. I have had a problem with the SBC adapted dampeners slipping on the hub. Makes it hard to time an engine. Cranks still break
     
  22. noboD
    Joined: Jan 29, 2004
    Posts: 8,456

    noboD
    Member

    I was thinking about this harmonic balancer thing again today. Has anyone ever been able to measure how much deflection is in a crankshaft with or without a balancer? Cast verses forged, etc? What is acceptable or normal?
     
  23. Fly'n Kolors
    Joined: Sep 21, 2008
    Posts: 407

    Fly'n Kolors
    Member

    Well, it wasn't the babbit. Rods plastigaged right on but shims needed pulling on all the mains. Had a blown head gasket between 3 & 4 cyl.
    So, new Best Gasket torqued to 65 lbs. under the Thomas Head and new pan and intake/exh gaskets. Dropped in the Mallory duel point and fired it up.
    Knock-Knock-Knock.... damn!
     
  24. JPB,

    is the balancer keyed to the crank with a std (chevy) key or the "A" key?
    I can see the short "A" key giving up the ghost.

    noboD

    I don't think the process by which the crank is manufactured has much to do with the ultimate strength. Obviously the material does, but the design and amount of metal has more effect. I often wonder about the block having enough rigidty to properly support the crank at racing speeds. I can think of a motor where the main bolts were replaced with short studs (not through bolted to normal assy) and the center main web came out of the block, the crank didn't break, but had a 1/8" bend in it.

    J
     
  25. That looks excellent - I love a spot of hill climbing myself!
     
  26. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,113

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    John

    What supports the crank is a good clean wedge of 80C oil. The oil's non-compressablity floats the crank whichever way the block and caps go. In this way the crank block and caps comply at the same multi rate and direction

    Please remember everything is dynamic in all directions

    The design feature that keeps the non-oil wedge supported parts from fracturing are the radii
     
  27. ebtm3
    Joined: May 23, 2007
    Posts: 837

    ebtm3
    Member

    Other things to check--that I have found looking for a knock--

    1 flywheel to crank bolts (rare)

    2 cam gear loose on hub (common)

    3 broken spring on plunger that controls cam end play-you can tell this easily if you have a scope--spark timing will be all over the place.

    4 end play on crank

    5 not enough space between piston(s) and head at TDC

    6 head gasket overhanging bore (not likely in your case)

    Herb
     
  28. ebtm3
    Joined: May 23, 2007
    Posts: 837

    ebtm3
    Member


    Agreed!

    Why don't one of you fellows that run your engines at astronomical revs get your crank welded up with a - say- quarter inch radii on all journals? The guy that grinds the crank will bitch, because he wont want to dress away that much of his wheel- just tell him that the customer is always right.

    You would loose a little bearing area--but on the type engines that you are building--is that all that important?

    Herb
     
  29. Bluto,

    basically agree, however, at some point the crank will flex and eventually something will break. I know that at a certain level of HP, the crank (C) cannot handle the stresses and will break. Going to a stiffer crank with more mass may have the effect of dampening out some of the accel/decel differences of the pistons and survive.

    The block faces much more design challenges than most people think when it comes to making HP.

    J
     
  30. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,113

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    The crank is always flexing even at idle.

    Everything will break in time
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.