hello everybody. im just about doing this and im going with the first diagram, GAHI. i just have a question regrding wire gauges. from alt to post i have 10--do i need to put a fuse, fusible link or just run the wire? from alt #2 i have 12g wire--again any fuses? from #1 to lamp to ign swtch i have 14g--- otravez, fuses? and from switch to post? i have 14g.. and yeah, you guessed. do i need fuses?? thanks in advance...
the original post was 2 years ago, so you might not get an answer from him. but you can use a fusible link in the 10g wire from the alt "bat" post to the battery, the #2 loops to the "bat" post on the rear of alt without a fuse and the #1 runs to the warning light and then to the ignition... no fuse (14g wire is good for both #1 and #2). you can run a diode in line if you don't want to run a light. I don't understand not wanting to be warned when your alt stops charging . you don't need to drill a hole in the middle of the dash and install a light shaped like a flower ......... if you don't want to see it hide it under the dash, use a brighter bulb so it will light up the floor when needed. you can hook it to a dash light, high beam light......many, many options to have it.
thanks thanks, im learning as i go, im putting all the tools down for now and focusing on theory and designing the wiring. im using the idiot light, my dad found one from an old ford tractor so it goes well with the dash and the hole was allready provided. now the thing is, from the batt side of the ignition switch im running the wire to the starter relay where the battery cable is hooked to, (i guess that will be the main post for power).. i got a 14g wire for that but it has an inline fuseholder attached to it.. should i ditch it and get another without the fuse or can i use that with a 30A fuse in it? chawixtle
sorry my little rant wasn't gear toward you, was just a general about the previous parts of the post. As for the power wire for the ign switch it doesn't need a fuse, if your building your own harness you might try looking at a factory manual (early 70's) to get an idea of where they put fusible links.
I have found its better to retain the sense wire to allow the battery to charge to its full potential (around 14V) . By connecting it at the the alternator, the battery voltage will only charge to 14v minus the voltage drop in the distribution wiring. On my 32 this is about .25 to .50v due to the ammeter in the circuit, and the various connectors and leads in the path. With the remote sense wire connected at the battery, the alternator actually outputs a higher voltage to compensate for the drop in the wiring. Al
You can buy the single wire regulator for the Delco alternators, and conver the earlier units. 4TTRUK
Here goes a simple Ford guy question....I have a 55 Ford 6 volt gen. 272 V-8 and I want to convert to a 12 volt system. I want to use an external voltage regulator....can I use the 10SI GM unit as is or do I have to rework the alternator to delete the internal resistance? Would a 56 Ford 12 volt conversion be as dependable at the GM 1 wire system? I know that I could just bypass the external regulator, but I want the 6 volt visual because the position of the generator/alternator on this motor is low and away.... Sorry if this is a repeat question, but as I said...I am a simple Ford guy!!!!
I have a similar setup on my t-bucket. For an indicator lamp they have a small 2" trailer light wired in under the seat. The problem I have is this thing quits charging or charges only to maybe 12v sometimes. The one on the car was from autozone and I replaced it last fall (from autozone again) when it started acting up. Today it started again with a dead battery and now I am barely showing 12-12.5v while driving the car where as before it was 13.5v. When I revved the car up this afternoon I noticed the light would start fading in and out. WTH is with that?
I double checked my volt gauge with a multimeter and get the same 11.8v output. I took the GM alt off and replaced it with a brand new Powermaster 140 amp unit I had. Way more then I need but hey it's 1am in the morning. Hooked up the powermaster unit using the same exciter wire and boom 13.5v at an idle.
I love this thread. I'm subscribing! My truck ain't even wired yet but I know that i'm going to need this. thanks
Do I absolutely have to run a wire off #1, or can I just eliminate that all together? Then loop #2 back to the post? Essentially turning this into a 1-wire setup, thats not self exciting? Just stab the skinny pedal on start up Also, it's been covered on this thread previously but... could I run the #1 wire to the unused (left) post on the starter? I think thats how I read it, but i'm pretty dense when it comes to this stuff. I don't want to run a dummy light, and a diode sounds like a pain in the ass
When is an external voltage regulator needed. I've got a 57 chvey I'm putting a American Autowire kit in. It has a 3 wire alternator and a external voltage regulator wired to it. The AAW kit doesn't say anything about the voltage regulator, should I take it out?
Not accurate. That is not the correct way to wire a voltmeter, as pointed out in an earlier reply. The #1 terminal, when the alternator is not generating power, is connected to ground through a resistor that is internal to the voltage regulator inside the alternator. When you first turn the key on, the power at the ignition switch flows through the idiot light and into terminal #1 on the alternator where it finds the resistive ground and lights the idiot light. As soon as the alternator starts to generate power, the #1 terminal basically changes from ground to the alternator output voltage, so now you have 13 or so volts at both the ignition switch and the #1 alternator terminal, which means what? It means that no current goes through the idiot light, so it goes out. You have substituted a volt meter for the idiot light. With the way you have the meter connected, you will see battery voltage when you turn the key on but as soon as the alternator starts to put out power, your voltmeter will drop to zero, or maybe still show a VERY low voltage. Without further diagnosis, you would probably think you alternator is bad and be going to the auto parts store to get a new alternator, when in fact the one you own is perfectly good. Also, an FYI: You don't need a "big red wire" going to terminal #2, since it doesn't carry that much current. It is simply a voltage reference for the alternator.
I think you're saying that your car, TODAY, before you put in the wiring kit, has an external regulator, correct? Any aftermarket wiring kit made today would virtually never use an external regulator, but would assume the use of a Delco 10si/12si or similar internally regulated alternator. The only time a wiring kit would be configured to use an external regulator was if it was a stock replacement harness.
No, the horn draws quite a bit of current, and most horn contacts on the steering wheel aren't heavy enough to handle the load. I had a buddy that tried it once, and one day the contacts welded themselves together and the horn continued to blow until he could get under the hood and disconnect the battery.
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