Spark Plug Boots/Wires to Headers: How Close?

So Super single back tires on a old slow ass Dodge 3500 would make it a pro street? I like our new definition better...

 

Medication time... medication time!!!

Someone hand me the fuckin' popcorn!

 

I don't think the headers will crack from wrapping them TOO TIGHTLY. No one has that kind of super-human strength. LOL. It's the wrap's effect of containing the heat, followed by the cooling off expansion/contraction of the metal that would make them crack from fatigue and heat stresses.

 

Internet fights are fun to read. Anyways, as long as the boots and wires aren't touching the headers you'll be fine.

 

Poor OP. He just wondered about the gap between his spark plug wires and headers. I think he got a good answer somewhere. He also learned not to ask about header wrap!

 

each tire is not a foot wide

 

I don't understand how that would help HP. The idea is to get the exahust to move out of the engine. If you allow the exhaust to dissipate heat thru the tubing, then it cools, and "shrinks" a little bit (PV=nRT), so there is less volume of exhaust, and it can move through the exhaust system with less restriction.

It might, but it's not necessary, and it's ugly, and it is hard on headers.

 

Super singles turn the duel back tires and rim in to ONE BIG back tire and rim so yup more then a foot=Pro Street Dodge 3500!

 

The header wrap contracts when it dries (has to be applied wet) so if you wrap it real tight and then it contracts then you get a crack.

 

I'm pretty sure that is not how it works. Cracks aren't cause by compressive loads...they're caused by tensile loads. The heat has no where to go, so the steel gets too hot and can't withstand the normal tensile loads caused by vibration, etc.

 

These Moroso insulating header wraps are designed to reduce underhood temperatures while producing more horsepower. They are made from a silica-based formula that contains no asbestos and can withstand up to 1,200 degrees F of continuous heat.

 

Gotta love marketing guys

 

So the fact that I HAVE NEVER cracked a header pipe, AND have always built fast motors (since age 14) is just dumb luck? I have wrapped EVERY header I have ever had! I will continue too! Stop buying the cheap ass thin wall headers and you will not have that problem!

 

How many miles did you put on them?

 

QUESTION Should I use exhaust wrap on my Hooker Headers?
ANSWER If your vehicle is being run on the street or for extended periods of time, you should never wrap headers. We never recommend exhaust wraps because it insulates the exhaust too much and retains moisture. This causes the exhaust temperature to be raised to a level that fatigues the header material causing cracks and can also cause rusting and pitting due to the moisture retained. .If you choose to use an exhaust wrap, the warranty will be void.

If under hood temperatures are an issue, we recommend using Hooker’s Metallic Ceramic Thermal Barrier Coating. Our coating is applied inside and out. It is corrosion and heat resistant up to 1600°F. It also reduces underhood temperatures and has a polished high luster finish. Holding exhaust temperatures inside the header increases the exhaust gas velocity producing more horsepower. You can purchase any Hooker header with our Metallic Ceramic Thermal Barrier Coating by adding a -1 to the end of the part number.


So like I said, when THE MAN at the header company coats it (with ceramic) it has the effect of "Holding exhaust temperatures inside the header increases the exhaust gas velocity producing more horsepower", but WHEN I coat the headers (with header wrap) is does NOT have the same effect? Just admit that you are wrong! Just like how single wide rims and tires (fits in the stock fender...CHECK, wider then a foot...CHECK!) on the back of a old slow ass Dodge 3500 instead of duel skinny ones damn sure does not mean that it is a pro street!lol I await your concession and apology.......

 

The theory that the marketers use is this: with a wrapped header, the exhaust heat stays within the header which decreases the density of the exhaust air, thereby allowing it to expand, rather than cool off and contract. So there is more air volume moving through the wrapped header, which creates a "scavenging effect" in the combustion chamber, thereby increasing volumetric flow through the engine and hence HP. Sounds awesome.

I'm sure someone has performed a dyno test to verify this theory.

That said, ignition wires 1/4-inch away from a typical street exhaust system should be just fine, imo.

 

Lots! FAST ones too! the one set made it thru three different motors and were used (THICK HOOKER HEADERS) when I got them. I really think that people fail to realize that the shrinking action of the wrap is what holds the tucked under ends on there and like I said they wrap them tight AND THEN it tightens way up when it dries, AND THEN they get them hot, AND THEN crack. They would not still be selling header wrap if ALL IT DID was ruin headers WITH NO gains in HP, not gona happen ...Your still the man tho, and I do still want/need your help on my Packard, but on this one..... As for the definition of "pro Street" I will let time sort that one out.

 

Interesting....using smaller header tubes has the same effect....does it increase HP? Maybe it does, if the header tubes were too big to start with.

Like I said, gotta love the marketing guys

how many is "Lots"? 100k?

 

YUP!!! That is how/why it works! The only down side as Squirrel pointed out is that they are ugly as crap and they do speed up the header rust that creeps. This is also why/how the $1,200-$1,500 ceramic ones work buy they look good doing it. Most real racers don't give a crap about pretty and would rather go with cheap (but effective AND ugly) wrap and spend the extra grand that they saved on the pretty ceramic ones and spend it on some new heads or other go fast parts. But yeah, if this was all just "made up" marketing they would not still be selling $100 header wrap and they DAMN SURE would not be selling those overpriced ceramic headers still.

OP that gap will be fine especially if this is a lower temp street car and not some fire breathing race stroker motor. Nothing like a simple yes or no eh!?

 

"Volumetric flow" (google it!) is not marketing, it is also something that people who don't race, or know guys with dyno's, would not know the importance of in winning races. I guess I am going to have to build another go fast car...... That is the fastest way I know to prove which of two guys knows more about making $hit go fast ....Line em' up and race! Winner knows their shit!lol Now to fix this slow ass Packard so I can start reinforcing the frame (marketing will not twist your frame for you) on whatever I make go warp 9 next.

 

Packard, you have a lot to learn.

 

Of that I have no doubt! That is one of the reasons why I am here. When I see BS that I know for a fact is not true, I call it! But I agree that the people who think they know it all don't know $hit and the people who really know their Shit, realize that they really have a lot more to learn. (like I do) I think that Goerge Carlin had it right when he said....Everyone else's stuff it $hit, and all of your $hit is stuff!

 

P.S. A "Pro Street" car is a drag car that still has plates and can be driven on the street. They typically have a narrowed rear axle and wheel tubs to accommodate huge rear slicks. There usually "back-halved" car's meaning only the rear axle/suspension has been highly modified while the front suspension is all stock.
Unlike a full on drag car, a lot of Pro Street car's retain modern convenience's like A/C, a Stereo and full interior for example. They all have typical safety item's to be street legal like functioning winshield wiper's, exterior lighting and horn etc.

This is what "us kids" consider to be the definition of pro street if you CAN "define" such an abstract thing. I am pretty sure that your light truck with a big block and headers counts so you sir are in! lol All I have is a Pro paperweight right now.....

 

I grew up during the Pro Street era - They were supposed to be Pro Stock cars that were driven on the street - Back halved, 18.5" x 31.5" Mickey Thompsons or 14" x 32 Pro Tracs, front runners and a super overcammed engine with way too big headers and a tunnel ram that would run 14's in many cases if they were lucky. Some super quick Pro Streeters, most trailer queens or garaged cars that came out for cruise night and never saw the track.

Pro Street will get you no respect on the HAMB.

 

My Packard is why I am on here and there is nothing "Pro" about it! lol I know that it pisses people off when people get on here and talk about pro street SBC'S with AC and CD changers in there cars that will blow the door rust right off most of this "vintage" stuff on here, that is why I do not bring it up! I Was just telling the OP what in MY OWN experience would work for him was all....HAMB on sir!

 

What was the first post about ???

How the hell did we get here,I'm confused.

 

You can thank Packard and his ever changing definition of pro-street

 

I think this Packard guy's plug wires are too close to his headers and the timing is retarded if you know what I mean . . .

 

Uh.... Did I just click on the YellowBullshit forum.

I think they have a user there called PeckerWood and he always gets his pecker wrapped up in header wrap because it gives him more power.

 

Who told you that, your wife? It just kills anyone on here with more then 1000 posts to ever be wrong about anything. Funny as hell tho!