Torque Wrenches : Best to Worst recommended

It depends on what you're doing and how accurate you "need" to be.

I have several but 2 of them are 1/2".

I use a Snap On for engine builds and anything I want total accuracy on and a Craftsman on mainly wheels and at the track. Both are the click type.

 

because sometimes you can't see the pointer, I have an Armstrong clicker,great wrench,it was used daily for years and now is off slightly and just needs some calibration, of course in the aircraft industry they get checked all the time, I also have snap on beam type wrenches, both have their place

 

They ALL have their place. Some in the tool box and others in service.

 

the armstrong stuff is actually pretty good, they cost a lot more then a cheap wrench and less then a snap on, mine stayed accurate for years even with regular checking, they are also made here not in China, I probably torqued thousands of bolts with it before the accuracy went out, it's not even that far off, but I still plan to send it off to be calibrated again.

 

Interesting replies. Regular calibration is necessary to insure accuracy and it sounds like this is ignored by many. I can't give a brand new torque wrench to shop staff without the quality control manager having a fit. It must go out for calibration and have a sticker put on it when it's due next before use.

 

Mine have been calibrated 3 times over the time I have owned them. They are both due, but I havent built a motor for several years now (used to do 2-3 a year, but have been devoting time to family) so I havent bothered recently. but yes, they should be checked and calibrated regularly. Not sure if the cheapy click types can even BE recalibrated, but considering how inaccurate they are in the first place, not sure if it matters much...

 

I know my beam type wrench will not go out of calibration as long as it doesn't get beat up or bent. I use it for torquing sensitive stuff such as head bolts where I want to see the torque level creep up to the spec. I just bought a cheapo HF clicker wrench for the not so critical applications. I really like the ratcheting feature but personally don't trust them as much. I usually verify the torque setting by coupling the two wrenches together and put the clicker style in the vice and apply torque on the beam type wrench until I hear the click, then read the torque and adjust the clicker setting as needed. Basically doing your own calibration.
Basic calibration at a lab will probably run you $50 or more. By the time you add shipping you might as well buy a new tool, unless you buy top of the line professional grade. We face the same problem at work where we have to make the same decision to recalibrate or just buy a new tool (calipers, gauge blocks, etc).

 

Hi GeezerP15,

So you have found some beam type (not click, not dial) out of tolerance?

thanks

Dan T

 

I've got a Precision Instruments that I picked up earlier this year after my other one gave up after 20+ years. Mine goes to 250lbs, if I remember correctly. I also have a Kobalt 3/8 drive, made by CDI that I got in a trade. I was going to pass it on down the line but it's come in useful for smaller stuff. It's dead accurate too, suprisingly. I had a buddy take it to his work where they have a calibration lab... I was surprised to see a cheapo be so accurate. However, it's got too many plastic pieces for my liking.

I like Precision Instruments. They're made in IL and their products are great.

 

Gauge blocks and pins never wear out...

 

Not necessarily. Use a pin gauge in an assembly line to check a fit and they can wear out in no time. Problem is when you have a quality system in place you will have to specify the calibration intervals. Some auditors like to see everything calibrated at least yearly, even if it's something stupid as gauge blocks. Sometimes it's not worth arguing about issues like that. By the time the discussion or dealing with a nonconformity and corrective action is over, it will have cost a multiple of replacing the instrument.

 

I've had to get mine calibrated once a year also.. Some of my blocks and pins were never used for a couple of years, but they still needed to be calibrated by the QC dept.

 

Beam type torque wrench: Doesn't the fact that you're relying on eyesight while you're muscling and moving add to the error? Add that you don't always have a good sight line (perpendicular to the gauge). And where you're doing something where it's basically impossible to see it, like something in the engine compartment.

I'm glad I finally got a click type. "Good/close enough" is now easier. Yeah, you're supposed to be smooth about it and unwind it when you're done with it.

 

Click types....Some operate only clockwise,...Turn it opposite,, and you just killed any accuracy. I still like my beam......

4TTRUK

 

Reading a beam torque wrench induces inaccuracy. It is called parallax viewing error. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parallax

No human being is capable of being calibrated. I don't care what you think you believe, your "eyecrometer" is just as inaccurate as the next guy. I have this argument all of the time at work. I get told that my work looks "crooked", until I get out the precision measuring tools, that is.

There is absolutely no way to guarantee that you are reading the gauge dead-on, or to know if you were, in the case that you were. Even the slightest shift of your eye position in relationship to the tool induces error. The farther away from the observation point you are, the worse it is. Just a degree or two makes the error in a beam torque wrench just as big, if not bigger than that of a click-type wrench.

Sorry guys, but you can't claim this one. No human is that accurate.

 

I unwind all my torque wrenches back down to zero when I'm done with them...

 

As everyone should. If you have not been doing this, plan on getting it re-calibrated, or replaced. It is probably off by now.

 

I bought a good used Hazet 3/8" click type torque wrench some years ago. Hazet is a German company, well respected in Europe.

Also I have an Australian made 1/4" clicker. It has a goofy 9/32" square drive plus an adapter to 3/8" drive (no doubt designed by someone from the mother country). I would like an adapter to 1/4", since I use this one mostly on small sockets (obviously) on Briggs engines or transmission bands.

I like the clicker types for the parallax reasons mentioned. Absolute accuracy is not so important as repeatability, so all the head bolts end up the same value.

 

Well said and in reality this applies to all precision measuring tools. If the clearances specified are actually there seizure would never happen. My "expert machinists" get proven in error regularly when thier work is re measured to verifiable standards.

 

Just took a look at those, they look pretty good. $300 is a reasonable price too.

 

I've had a 1/2" Craftsman clicker that I got for HS graduation in '75---used the shit out of it for years.Building a SBC Nitro motor right now with it.

It's still in its original plastic case,never been dropped or abused,,kept clean,oiled & backed off to 10 lbs when I put it away..(10 is as far naack as it'll go).

As metioned is some of the above posts,buy the best you can afford,take care of it & have confidence in it.
You get what you pay for with these things (IMO)

And something really important,,(and I cant believe this hasn't been been mentioned),,NEVER loan your torque wrench to anybody,,,ever,,, unless you go with it,,,

 

I am leaning toward a clicker for the 1/2" lug nut duty for sure. I like and understand the dials for a motor deal. And thank-you again for the input, fellows.

 

Fixed that for you.

 

FYI-I've sent several torque wrenches to "Team Torque" in N.Dakota that needed repair and calibration.
They were able to repair an inch pound Snap-On wrench when Snap-On's own regional repair station couldn't/wouldn't do it for me due to it being "Obsolete".
Go "Team Torque"!
They also sell rebuilt torque wrenches when available.

 

Thanks for the tip.

 

All of the torque wrenches we calibrated were click, dial, or electronic (used a built in strain gage arrangement). We did not have any beam type wrenches in our program.

Wayne

 

All of the torque wrenches we calibrated were click, dial, or electronic (used a built in strain gage arrangement). We did not have any beam type wrenches in our program.

Wayne

 

i would say buy a snap on ask a tool truck if he has any used ones guys are trading them in on digitals

 

Can't go past snap on

 

I would rather have the old snap on then the digital, too fancy for me, how did we EVER build anything successful before technology? some things should have been left alone, the digital are fine for aircraft and building rockets, but a good dependable mechanical snap on or other good quality wrench worked just fine ever since cars were invented. I wanted to get my snap on calibrated but they said it's too old, whatever happened to product support?