I just dropped my newly rebuilt 409 into my car and I can't get it to run. I'm pretty sure my problem is in the timing. I am using a Mallory YC345HP distributor with mechanical advance. Perhaps I don't have the dizzy installed in the right position? I've tried it with the rotor pointing to where cylinder one is usually at TDC on a SBC, then online I found a picture showing cylinder one being dead center of the engine at TDC. Either way all I am getting is popping and gasoline spitting out my carb. points are set at .019. I can't find any info on this YC345HP dizzy on Mallory's site, but i did find that their other distributors are gapped at .022 Anyone? I'm stuck here Any advice from the experts?
I have really good spark, and it is getting fuel. Just popping at this point and shooting flames up through the carb every now and then.
pull the valve cover over number one cylinder, rotate engine till timing mark lines up, check that both valves are closed [if not rotate 180] look to see which wire rotor is pointing to on cap. that is number one. you can either move the wires [pain in the ass] or lift distributor and turn rotor to line up with number one wire.
take out number one plug get a friend have them bump the starter while you have your finger plugging the spark plug hole when you hear and feel the air come out you are close to top dead center finish by turning the crank with a socket then check where the rotor is
Did that, found top dead center, set the distributor to cylinder #1, set the cap so that the rotor lines up with cylinder #1 sparkplug wire Still popping, now have raw gas in the exhaust pipes and flames Again, wicked good spark. Just doesn't seem to firing at the right place at the right time.
Another way is to remove number one plug and rotate the engine while you of some has their finger in the number plug hole.You will feel compression trying to blow out of the plug hole when you are coming up on the compression stroke. When you feel the pressure watch the timing mark on the balancer as it comes up to the timing tab.Keep turning until you reach 0. You will now be on TDC number on one cylinder. Remove the distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointing. If it is not pointing to where you have number one plug wire plugged in you can either rewire the cap with one at the proper position or pull the distributor and rotate the shaft to get the rotor to point to the number plug wire position on the cap. You will not be 180 degrees off because you know that you are on the compression stroke for number one and not the exhaust stroke where you would not feel any compression coming from the plug hole. As stated above if you are not comfortable with feeling for compression you can remove the valve cover on the number one bank and watch for when both valves are closed and the timing marks are on zero to accomplish the same thing. You cannot be 180 off if you are on the compression stroke with both valves closed.
Start over; Do the finger over #1 hole again. Then be watching the timing tab as compression gets good on your finger. Watch which way the rotor turns, and move the crank to around 6-8 degrees BTDC. Now look at the points; they should be almost opening as the dist lobe is riding on the points. Move the rotor in the correct rotation just a bit to see if they ARE ready to open. If not, Set the dist so that the points will open as soon as the crank turns more than 6-8 degrees. Now look at rotor to see if it really is close to #1 wire on cap. Most people don't bother to see if the points are about ready to open, when it's up at 6-8 degress, so then it won't start, and they twist the dist all over trying to start it. If you do it the right way, it will fire up.
well....after a quick compression check I found that I have zero. I've been fucking with this for 4 hours now, i'm done for today. Tomorrow I'll back all the valves off and check it again, if still no compression its the rings. If there is compression its the cam. Does this sound right? Why did I wait so long to check the compression? Who knows?
The Moose posted that while I was hunting for it. If you have the timing correct and have it wired correctly the other thing to check would be the valve adjustment.
A friend just went through an ordeal on his 62 409, the mallory distributor was his problem.. new part was junk. Put stock distributor out of his other 62 and fired right up.
ZERO compression? Who did the rebuild, a shop? Even if the valves were tight it should weeze. Maybe cam timing? Unless all the rings are broken they should not be the problem.
Joe, Just my .02 cents worth. I'm not busting your balls! New cam sprockets have several different timing marks-is your cam timed correctly? If not, you may have bent your valves. Is everything compatable? What cam are you using? What heads are you using? What pistons? Solid or hydraulic lifters? Who assembled this engine? Ask yourself these questions, then proceed. Check and double check everything. I'd also try a known good distributor. Good luck! Bob
If there was no compression, this could not be possible. Using a broken gauge? Use a finger in each hole to see if there is enough to push your finger off.
He may not have a compression reading but the piston would still suck in air and fuel and push it back out the intake if the intake valves were too tight or bent and the plug lit it up.
Joe, I'll say it again. Check the cam timing. If you used the wrong timing mark on the cam sprocket, it's going to effect cam timing and probably bend valves and it will never lite off. There usually are several marks on the sprocket for different engines. Let me know how you make out. Good luck! Bob
You might look at this and see if any thing is different than yours. It has a little on cam timing, distributor timing, and setting hydraulic lifters. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=215715
Find someone, a mechanic, who knows what he is doing. Have him explain what he does to you. Please . You'll thank me later. Lippy
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