How do I use this tool? (Ignition tester)

So I got this ignition tester to try and figure out my no start issue and the directions on the back are vague as crap so what do I do? I know that the wider you make the gap the harder it tests your coil (I think) but how do I know what it should test at on my '49 Packard Deluxe Eight with a 288CI that runs a 6V Positive ground setup? It is not the same one as on this link but it is the same style and has the same markings on it. Thanks! http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_x_22983657-P_x_x

 

Throw it away! All you need to test the coil on your car is to pull the coil wire out of the cap and hold it 1/4-3/8 " away from a ground and crank the engine over.

 

JohnEvans is right of course, but I've gotten "zapped" doing that carelessly. It looks like that thing just plugs into the coil tower, and the clip goes to ground. Set it at 10; turn the car over and see if it jumps the gap. try at 20, 30, 35, 40, etc.. If it some point the spark doesn't jump the gap, you may have have a problem. It shouldn't matter if it's six or twelve volts, positive or negative ground; a spark needs a certain amount of energy to jump a given gap.

That all being said, it takes more to fire a plug of a given gap with cylinder pressure that without, so that thing really doesn't have enough range to do a real test. Throw it out and do it the old way.

 

I use an old spark plug with an alligator clip soldiered on, the gap is streched way out.
And tapping the wire of the condenser to coil while points are closed is sure fire way to test spark.

 

I have one. Clamp the alligator clip on a good ground and turn the thumb screw to the desired plug gap between the pointed ends, connect the coil wire or the plug wire to the end that looks like a spark plug. Crank the engine and see if the spark jumps the gap.

 

if the spark will jump 1/4 to 3/8" gap it should start the car.

Assuming the spark is at the right time, the engine has compression, proper valve timing, fresh fuel in the correct ratio, the plugs are not fouled (visibly or other wise), and a bunch of other "ifs"

 

I am running out of ifs. Nice new fuel and filter, dumped a few more gallons in just in case (fuel gauge doesn't work) New auto-lite plugs gaped to spec (how do I double check that they are the right heat range?), I took off the cap with the #1 piston up top and looked at the rotor and it is pointing damn near right at it, I have not moved the timing since it was running (ran decent, had a stumble due to bunk points), New points, new rotor, cap looks good and new but I have a new one in the trunk and bought a new coil and tried it and still the same no starting crap so I put the old one back on and put the new one in the trunk. When I pull a plug, put a wire on it, and crank it, the spark looks kinda weak, like a soft orange or yellow, not white or blue like I would like to see so that is why I was trying to use this tool to see just "How much" spark I have. Thank to all for the advice, please keep it coming!

 

I will check the timing and the compression in the morning and post the findings on here. What other IF's ya got!? I am running out....

 

What are the results of the compression test?

 

What have you done to it since it last ran?

 

Make one of these

 

Where do you live in Johnson Co.
I live in Goldsboro and if you run out of options, I may be able to help you out.

 

??? it's the same thing just not so hillbilly, It is just an adjustable gap. Just because it has enough voltage to jump the plug gap at atmospheric pressure doesn't mean it has enough to do it during the compression cycle. thats why the tool can be opened up to require more voltage to jump the gap.

 

Why in God's name are you still running six volts? Change over to twelve. Change the bulbs and if necessary find a battery you can tap for six, or step down if there are other things that can't be changed. The starter will twirl faster. Find a breaker-less ignition system to fit the distributor and get on with life. Six volt systems are for masochists.

 

I didn't see the condenser in the list of thing you changed. Weak spark can definitely be caused by a dried out condenser.

A well maintained six volt system works every bit as good as a twelve volt one. You people who's cars won't start on six volts are just masking some other issue by converting to a twelve volt system.

 

Do you have the coil hooked up right ? Postive ground needs the + terminal to the points. And clean your points, with new points pulling a biz card through the points with them closed will remove any oil etc. Look between the pionts after doing this to make sure a odd piece of card ain't stuck in there,BTDT.

If everything is right 6 volt Packards start just fine a buddy has several.

 

It ran for 63 years like that and will continue too. If you say "I drove here in a Packard on a Suburban motor, trans, and rear end, are you as cool as the guy that got there in a REAL Packanrd!!?....Doubt it.... Anyone got anything OTHER than buy all new stuff and totally re-design it!? I have a brand new Pertronix in the trunk) (SOOO lame) Hey! I hear that u can not catch anything from humping FAKE blow up girls,...humping real ones is just ASKING for trouble....You should just hump fake ones from now on.....

 

THANK THE GOOD LORD! I will pick you up, buy the beer, parts, lunch, and drop you off! Just say when and where to pick you up!

 

Selma! IGA 3 blocks down Waddell.

 

My bad, changed the condenser too, (Elchin) have the old one AND another new one in the trunk. Been replacing everything for the hell of it and still nada!

 

Everything it hooked up the way it was as I do not want to add any "new" variables....DID NOT "clean" the now points with a card (or anything), will do! Thanks!

 

Clean up the old plugs with a blaster it you have it and try again. I just went through a week and about $300 worth of parts on my dodge ram to figure out that my new Autolite plugs were makeing it run like crap. Replaced with Champions truck ran fine. It did missfire enough and dumb enouth raw fuel that I get to weplace the cat.

 

pull number one plug and crank engine while putting your finger in hole. Good compression should push your finger off. Now set crankshaft pointer on mark. Now where is the rotor pointing. I'll bet you are 180 degrees out. I fought this a little with my 49 club sedan. Once you are now sure one is in fact one set the wires for proper order and start her up. Good luck.

 

I will check as that would give me the symptoms I am having, but HOW would it get 180 off from where it is supposed to be? The rotor button is D shaped on the bottom and only goes on one way.

 

Here's one I ran into many yrs ago in my 63 plym, 383. Weak spark, hard start. Starter motor was dragging and sucking all the voltage. I only caught it by realizing if I bumped the starter versus grinding away that it would fire. New starter , prob solved. I hated those reduction starters by the way. Thot i'd throw this out there.

 

Yeah I just got it back from being rebuilt as I had killed it most of the way off chasing the original problem. Thanks tho!

 

Because the camshaft (and therefore the distributor) turn at half the crankshat speed. Remember, it's a 4-cycle engine and fires every other cranshaft revolution.

 

That tool is better for testing for a weak coil, especially if you have one coil per cylinder as you can compare results. By increasing the gap till the spark stops, you can see how strong a spark the coil can make. The bigger the gap the more power it takes to make a spark jump the gap. As stated, for a no go/go test just pull a wire and see it it will jump the gap at all or lay a plug on it's side.

 

I did that like a week ago and still the same thing, I am starting to think that you guys are right about the timing being off, going out to check now.

 

The best way to determine if a car has enough spark to start, is to have someone who knows nothing about cars to firmly grab two spark plugs while you attempt to start it.

Careful observation of that persons face will tell the strength of the spark.

It is best not to use your wife for this test.