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Projects '36DD - (My Double Duty 3-window build.)

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Surf City, Mar 30, 2012.

  1. Rods & Relics
    Joined: Oct 7, 2007
    Posts: 280

    Rods & Relics
    Member

  2. The_Hermit
    Joined: Mar 31, 2009
    Posts: 128

    The_Hermit
    Member
    from France

    Bear, that master cylinder is really nicely located. Why am i not surprised at the amount of work you put into that ?
     
  3. n.z.rodder
    Joined: Nov 18, 2008
    Posts: 1,016

    n.z.rodder
    Member

    X2 :cool:

    Scotty
     

  4. Thanks beater, have sent you an email:)
     
  5. wandi harry
    Joined: Jul 19, 2008
    Posts: 321

    wandi harry
    Member


    G'day Bear
    You have a great build going there
    Did you find repro shafts and bushes or did you make them up
    Harry
     

  6. Sorry, guys. Been really slack lately. I've been soooo busy at work - I'm either working late or I'm too tired to get out in the shop at night.:(

    I had always thought I would run some 2 and 1/2" 'vette ramshorns on this, like I've got on my Nova. Love the subdued sound of a cast manifold thru' a big pipe, specially when there's a big cam and a bunch of compression, and I figured it would fit the theme of this build.

    But, as much as I tried to sneak that steering box outta' the way, it's still right under where the outlet on the centre dump manifolds would have been.

    Did a bit of a search on the HAMB, and kept coming back to Koz's thread with the Belond styled headers. I really like the smooth flowing look of that style. and while it seems they were never made for the early small block, I figure it's quite possible that an enterprising 50's/60's era rod or custom builder could have fabbed up a set in a similar style.

    Definitely way more befitting of a custom than the Hedman tri-y or Black Widow styled manifold.

    So, I played around with a few different ideas, and settled on a flange style that, to me, typifies the early hand-crafted look.
    Then I drew it up as a cad file (real traditional:rolleyes:) and sent it off to the profile cutter, and ordered up a bunch of u-bends.

    headers2.JPG


    Once I got these back, I spent around 5 hours with a file and a few sanding rolls dressing them up.

    headers3.JPG

    headers4.JPG



    Next, I slit a tapered section out of some large diameter tube, and cramped it up with 4 hose clamps to form a short cone.

    headers5.JPG

    headers7.JPG

    Then I welded and sanded the cone, and fitted it up to the front primary pipe.

    headers8.JPG

    And fabbed up some 2 1/2 " pipe to sweep around the steering box, and rough-fit the other primaries to get a feel for how the whole piece was gonna' look.

    headers10.JPG

    headers10.JPG


    headers14.JPG

    I've been looking at it off and on for the last couple of weeks. and I kinda' like it, but there's something about the fatness between the 3rd and 4th primary that just keeps screaming 'Elephant Man' at me, so today I cut it up, and now I'm gonna try it with 2 1/4" pipe, which I think (hope) will look a whole bunch better.:rolleyes:

    Bear:)
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2018
  7. Rods & Relics
    Joined: Oct 7, 2007
    Posts: 280

    Rods & Relics
    Member

    I like where your going with those pipes :D
    Something that someone once said............... SEX SELLS!! :eek::eek: :cool::eek:
     
  8. Hi Harry

    Thanks for the encouragement!

    No, the bushes and shafts were all done from scratch - they have the ends machined to suit the scratch built pedals and to mount levers to actuate the clutch and brake light switch.
    Not too fussed on the yellow bushing material,:p but that was all the machinist had in stock.

    Bear:)
     
  9. TexasSpeed
    Joined: Nov 2, 2009
    Posts: 4,631

    TexasSpeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Texas

    I plan to fab up my own headers as well. Mine will be quite a bit different from those however. Your work is really clean and well thought out!
     
  10. woodbox
    Joined: Jul 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,231

    woodbox
    Member

    Looks great Bear! How are you going to weld between 2 and 3 in the middle onto the cone?
     
  11. Very Carefully!;)

    Actually, there is almost a quarter inch between the two where they meet the cone, which you can see better from this angle.

    headerstake2-15.JPG

    I positioned them like this for two reasons - firstly, the lines flow nicer from the top side view, which is what you will see once the fenders are on, and secondly, to avoid the issue of welding between them had they been closer together.:D

    Bear:)
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2018
  12. Well, like I said earlier, I wasn't 100% happy with the look of the first version of my header:(, so I threw out everything but the flanges and started again, this time using 2 and 1/4" pipe for the tapered section.

    headertake2.JPG

    Next I individually fit up the primaries, scribed where they met the 'collector' section, then cut holes with a 3" cut off tool and finished them up with the die grinder.

    HEADERSTAKE2-1.JPG

    Welded the first one into position, then did the same deal with the other two.




    HEADERSTAKE2-2.JPG

    HEADERSTAKE2-3.JPG


    HEADERSTAKE2-4.JPG

    HEADERSTAKE2-5.JPG
    HEADERSTAKE2-6.JPG

    HEADERSTAKE2-7.JPG

    'Till I ended up with this...

    HEADERSTAKE2-8.JPG

    HEADERSTAKE2-10.JPG

    headerstake2-13.JPG

    headerstake2-15.JPG



    Now, aside from figuring out what to do for a lower flange, I've gotta' make a mirror image one for the other side, then decide whether I should braze over the welds and smooth 'em up some more, or just go ahead and get them coated as is.

    I've gotta' say, I'm much happier with the look of the revised version, even if it has set me back by almost two months!:rolleyes:

    Bear:)
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2018
  13. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,155

    Anderson
    Member

    This is one of those "I just read (well, looked) through this entire thread" posts. Your fabrication is excellent.

    Also, I really wish someone produced the wishbone mounts you machined for your frame. Those are far simpler than what I've seen available in the aftermarket and look very easy to install. I've made the same thing from pieces I welded together in the past, but a solid piece of steel would be much stronger. Your rear lower shock mounts are a great idea too. Nothing here is over complicated, but it's all very elegant. Can't wait to see more.
     
  14. jratz1966
    Joined: Nov 11, 2009
    Posts: 104

    jratz1966
    Member

    Wow,Your workmanship is amazing. Subscribed
     
  15. Happydaze
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 1,903

    Happydaze
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Not sure how I missed this previously but i've caught up now! Great build and writeup and thanks for doing it and sharing! Your super clean shop and working methods make me feel kinda dirty, and not in a good way. :D

    Chris
     
  16. Alright...that does it. I'm starting over with my 34 build to look a lot more like this build. Damn! That's a nice buncha work there! Love the attention to detail.
     
  17. Thanks a bunch for the comments - you've pretty much summed up what I'm trying to do here. :cool:

    I 'm not setting out to re-invent the wheel, rather using era correct stuff wherever possible, and when it's not readily available or suitable, scratch building stuff in a similar style.
    And keeping it as clean and simple as I can.:D

    Bear:)
     
  18. Started the tedious task of peeling the original floorpans out of the body.
    Seems a real shame 'cos the stuff that's there is in real good shape, but I figured I was gonna' be altering it that much to clear the trans and rear suspension/rear kickup, that the best thing I could do was pull the original stuff so's someone else can make use of it.

    I sanded up around the edges to locate the spot welds, then started drilling.....

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Once I had freed all the spotwelds on the main floor section, I dropped that piece out.
    It's actually in amazingly good shape, aside from the fact a previous owner had hacked out the front portion:eek: (which made the decision to pull the floor easier).

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The body shell had been soda blasted prior to my getting it back in '04, and the underside was still in bare metal. Even the original wood reinforcing was still in surprisingly good shape!

    [​IMG]
     
  19. Doodman
    Joined: Oct 6, 2012
    Posts: 11

    Doodman
    Member

  20. So-Cal Speed Sacramento
    Joined: Sep 6, 2008
    Posts: 459

    So-Cal Speed Sacramento
    Alliance Vendor
    from Sacramento

    the craftsmanship is amazing! i really like the combination of old and new on the chassis. consider me subscribed!
     
  21. PRIMER STUDIO
    Joined: Nov 13, 2006
    Posts: 1,240

    PRIMER STUDIO
    Member
    from Bozeman,MT

  22. flyin flattie
    Joined: Oct 13, 2005
    Posts: 601

    flyin flattie
    Member
    from Redmond OR

    this build is awesome glad I stumbled on it
     
  23. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,381

    Outback
    Member
    from NE Vic

    It's a pitty I'm not in NZ cause I'd be chassing up that floor pan, good to see more progress, I'm loving this build.
     

  24. Hey So Cal, thanks for the compliments. As much as I would like to do a totally traditional build, it's kinda hard work to find all genuine old stuff here in New Zealand (and I really admire the guys who do manage to get it right), but I'm probably not so patient as them, and also I figure that I want mine lower than the way they used to do it back in the 'olden days'.

    I actually ordered a reversed eye Model A rear spring off of you guys a month or so back, but you were out of stock, and refunded my money instantly. Much appreciated.

    I eventually found one at Vern Tardels, which I now have in place.:)

    It worked out exactly as I had envisaged - just the right amount of clearance to the kicked up frame, and the correct shackle angle to boot!:D (Nice shackles, by the way!)

    Original spring...
    rearspring1.jpg
    And reversed 'Tardel' spring...
    IMG_3096.JPG



    I'll definitely still be wanting to get some stuff thru' you soon tho'.

    The next thing I need is gonna' be the outrigger body mounts (Bob Drake repros) but nobody seems to want to ship them overseas - can you get these?

    Bear:)
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2018
  25. Hey Bear . Shaping up really nice mate . Keep it up . Put that floor on TradeMe , you know someone will want it ;););)

    Shrap:cool:
     
  26. Seems like it might be going down your way to go in to another 3-window:)
    Along with the rear section which I've gotta' be extra careful with now:D

    It's great to be able to help another rodder out, but I do have to wonder whether it would have been a whole bunch easier just to swap bodies at the start:rolleyes:
     
  27. just beautiful work bear....theres only one problem with your build.its not in my shed:)
    also thanks for the heads up on the shackles.i was going to ask where you got them.
     
  28. Thanks for all the comments guys!

    I got the trunk floor section out the other night. That thing was welded in good and solid!

    IMG_3302.JPG

    IMG_3303.JPG


    Once again, this piece is dang near mint, apart from a couple of dings (well, I guess it is the trunk floor:rolleyes:)

    So, here's what I'm left with.

    IMG_3299.JPG

    IMG_3298.JPG

    IMG_3296.JPG

    This rearmost section appears to be absolutely mint, and I'm fairly sure that with a slight modification at the front edge, I'll be able to use it with my modified frame.:)
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2018
  29. 32coop
    Joined: Apr 20, 2009
    Posts: 131

    32coop
    Member
    from Australia

    Love this build. I admire the path your headed with this car. Any updates?


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     

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