What is the baddest 2bbl Carb for my flathead?

Hi there, so I have a 1949 Packard, Deluxe Eight. It has a inline Flathead Eight. It is like 80% stock and mainly keeping that way but this is gona be a driver and so I want reliability, and would like some performance too. The carb is a Carter WD-O 2bbl and best I can tell is not the one/same type that came stock anyway AND leaks gas from 5 places (on to the exhaust manifold, yay) So what are my options fellas!? I would like to keep it 2 bbl for decent economy on road trips, but, that doesn't mean that it cant be a bad ass one to help get this sled movin' a little better! Also, any old timers on here remember how to hop these old inline eights up? I am handy and have built a few REAL decent V8 before, but this is the first inline I have ever pointed a wrench at. Any help, tips, scathing sarcasm, ect, is greatly appreciated!

 

I would say "or small 4bbl" and just try and keep my foot out of it, but then it would be cu$$$$tom intake manifold time, the wife and 3 kids, do not LIKE custom.....

 

It's hard to beat a Rochester 2G. I've got one on my flathead Merc motor and it idles/runs smoothly.

Bob

 

1st step to a Mouse Motor

 

What is the second one?

 

I guess a lot would depend on the bolt pattern. If a 2G would fit, they make a wide variety of them for racing.

 

I have SEVERAL good machine shops in town so I am thinking that an adapter plate to fit WHATEVER would not cost that much as long as it has roughly the footprint of a Carter 2bbl.

 

http://www.packardclub.org/forum/download/file.php?id=2230&t=1

This is like the one that is on there now. Kinda cute isn't it!?

 

The old Motorcraft 2100 can be a good thing with the right jetting. 350 cfm.

 

Cool deal, I wonder how many CFM my Carter is just for reference? Do you know?

 

How many CFM is that 2G?

 

Actually, it don't make much of a difference what you put on as a carbuerator as it won't help much, but it won't cost much money Put on the one tht you can work on easily!

Not much will get that weight moving until you get into motor work that will change the horsepower of the engine.

I could hardly ever feel a difference going to two carbuertors except in the sound of the intake noise.!

Correct the leaks in the present carbuertor , hit the head with a .060 cut, or .100 cut and you might see enough of a change to affect the car driving.

And that is the easiest way to make a change!

 

I hear ya, CFM is CFM, so, Deck the head, check. Any other mods I should look in to? Chime in fellas, what will wake this straight eight up!?

 

4bbls tend to get better mileage because it only uses half the CFM until the secondary's kick in, while 2bbls have the full CFM going 24/7. just do a 650 4bbl!

 

I am thinking that 280cfm-350cfm is about all a 288CI can use, am I correct? Also I have a 2bbl intake on my 49 Packard, know where to pick up a 4bbl one for it?

 

Well, the next thing to do is the 3/4 race cam, not a big cam, and perhaps build a an exhaust system to free up the exhaust. But anything else will cost money!

But don't expect too much, but that stuff will help a bit, and the car should sound nice and be easy to drive.

If you want high speed spend high amounts !

 

2G- I dunno the capacity. Never heard much about hopping Packards. But I agree, a head shave, low restriction header, muffler & pipe, would be worth checking.

 

Will check in to it, thanks to all!

 

The 1949 Packard would have come stock with a Carter type WGD two-barrel. For a basically stock engine, there is no better two-barrel.

Remember that in this general time period, Packard made the 288, a 327, and a 356. You aren't going to significantly increase performance on that heavy a car with the smallest engine by simply changing the carburetor.

The WGD, because of the metering rod design, will allow you the maximum power along with excellent fuel economy when you are cruising.

Jon.

 

Phttttt p) I think that an Anular Discharge Holley 500 is the best bet for this old underpowered inline 8.

Listen to Jon here. Changing a carburetor seldom does much if anything at all to change the performance of an engine unless the carb that is already on it is not sized properly.

The only way to get more zot out of that old engine is to peoperly build it, relieveg the block for starters, higher compression head custom cam grind, lighten crank etc. Basically throw money at it, that is the price of speed.

If you want to leave it basically stock then repair what you have if it is repairable and drive and enjoy it.

 

Pork, Carb, sounds like a plan, and I have a TON of stuff to service before I even think about upgrades. I know that without a freakin' BBC that this car will never be fast, I just want it to get out of its own way at some point. I also realize that fast, and economically cruising are usually mutually exclusive. Thanks!

 

three pics of the car...but none of the engine?

 

I'm kinda with beaner but i'd scale back to the 350 cfm unless you replace the intake and exhuast (manifolds) with high flow stuff, got to move some air for the 500cfm to work right. Either way the holly 2300 is the best bet if you aren't woriied about period correct.

 

You are aware that the holley I mentioned is pretty much unobtainum and way more carb then the old eight will ever want.

I believe that the original Flintstone Flyer was a Packard about like yours. I believe it was a C or D gas car and ran a small block I'll have to see if I can dig you up some info for inspiration. Nope wrong E gas.

Tell you what would really wake the old straight 8 up if you could snag one would be an old whipple charger. You wouldn't have to do a lot with the engine itself I don't think they only made boost in the 3-5 lb range. They actually resembled an old harrison A/C pump to me. I usre wish I could talk one of you old flat six or inline 8 guys into trying one. Totally traditional and cost would be minumal if you found one you could buy right.

If you find you have trouble getting what you need for that carb drop Jon (carbking) a note. He can hook you up with all the right stuff, no doubt. And it keeps it in the family.

Here is some inspiration for ya.

 

A couple of things to keep your eyes open for would be an old Edmunds dual carb intake and aluminum head for that Packard.

What engine do you have? The 327's and 356's can be made to produce some serious torque fairly easily, and that is what you are going to want in that 5000+ lb land yacht. Other then decking the block, there isn't much you can do since the valves are at an angle to the cylinder bore, and there is very little room for an overbore with out getting into the valve seats.

Check out this HAMB thread (and a few others when you use the search function)

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=388993&highlight=packard+straight+8s

Check out this site for more info about your Packard.

http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/article/

 

MY experience is that you can overcarb an engine. Using a 750 edelbrock on a stock 352 ford FE in a pickup. My assumption is that it would "only use what it needs," not so, it pucked at anything more than half throttle. I pulled out the choke half way and jetted it down and it worked good.

I think my assumptions were wrong based on my experience

 

I would take in what Jon (carbking) and Pork hit you with and go with. End this thread before it gets confusing.

 

Good idea well the ending part anyway. I was just thinking of all the ways that th water could be muddied up and trying to obstain.

 

Proud of the car....not yet proud of the motor, the only thing slowing the oil from leaking, is built up old oil...

 

Don't know why, (propably 'cause I got drunk as crap with my neighbor) but I just remembered when I was a teen. I had my girlfriend's mom tell me when I was a teen that "you care more about that 1974 Charger then you do about my daughter!" I told her "when more people compliment me on you daughter, then do on my Charger, then that will change." That went over like a turd in the punch bowl! Honesty is NOT always the best policy! lol.....Random I know....