You would know by now if you flattened the cam, it looks good, send the new one back and get on with it.
As a quick check, take two of the lifters and hold them together bottom end (the end that rides on the cam lobe) to bottom end and hold them up to a light. They should touch in the middle and light should show through around the edges (the bottoms are ground to a convex shape to cause the lifter to turn). If they are completely flat on the bottom they are gone and the cam lobes are probably gone also. Scott
I'm far from a pro engine builder,but the 6 or so engines I built in the last 15 years started immediately and ran pretty damn well for cam break in.Never start the engine unless the valve train ,timing and fuel system with allow it to run decent. Yes,I also know engines that were slapped together and ran,beaters built by me from parts laying around.....But why fuck around and take a chance if you have a few bucks into the build?
Do whatever makes you comfortable...............and to make your engine comfortable add 1/2 a bottle of ZDDP at each oil change. By adding the ZDDP you can use any name brand of oil of the proper viscosity. It's cheaper than Joe Gibbs plus freight.
Unfortunately you cannot check cam wear over the internet. Let me ask you this, did the valves develop a lot of lash since you broke it in? IE are they loose? if not then I wouldn't worry about it. You can throw a dial indicator on it and roll it over to check the lobe lift, do each one and see if they are a lot different that would be an indication. Let me say this, I raced a flat tappet cam in a small block last weekend that has about 140K on it. I have never used special additives. Of course mine is a crane and not a comp that could make a difference. If it is running fine just drive it until the cam takes a crap, then repair it and continue on with life. On a side note, most of what you hear on the internet about cam wear is posted by fellas that wouldn't know a worn cam if it walked up and bit 'em in the ass. (there that should get 'em stirred)
i've been using this Edelbrock zinc additive , part # 1074. the bottle says it's made for them by Torco
I am running a 283 with a Comp 270H that has 40K+ miles on it now and haven't had a single problem. I use a good quality oil, change it every 3K miles and have never used an additive since break-in. I think a lot of people over worry at times over these things. I have people at work who believe anything is true if they see it on TV or on the internet or in print any where. I could be totally wrong on this but I haven't experienced any problems up 'til now.
CB Chief, I think that there are a lot of variables. You can buy parts that are not up tp par to start with for one. You can miss it on break in or not use a good quality cam lube when you assemble it. Someone mentioned in a thread a while back that actually our Zink levels are back down to where they were in the '50s, so I have to assume that if you are running a stock '50s ebngine that you will be OK. What gets some of us is that we run mega spring pressures to control or help control valve float at higher RPM levels with higher lift cam shafts. I thik in that situation with a flat tappet cam shaft that you probably need all the help that you can get. I am going out on a limb her and say that probably when valve spring pressures started comming up that zinc levels also came up, that would have started in the very late '50s or early '60s. All that said if one is not comfortable not using an additive one should use an additive. I can see no reason in the world to drive around always wondering when you are going to wipe a lobe or trash a lifter. No run in necessaary on a roller cam, I think that a lot of the modern engines run roller lifters.
Roller tappets are great..... and I believe most factories are using them now. Something else they learned from the racing guys !! Just fire 'em up, and go. 4TTRUK
If the pushrods were all spinning you were probably alright .Put the cam and lifters back in without the intake ,mark with a sharpie the top of the lifter and the bore with a connecting line spin the motor over with crank bolt 1 revolution and make sure the lifters spun and the lines arent lined up if they all spin 1/4 turn or more your in good shape.If a few don't spin there are ways to correct it somtimes by placing a .020 shim between timing gear and cam forcing the cam back in the block better indexing the lifter bores to the cam.
Thanks guys for all the input. Cam is back at the speed shop on the shelf. Old cam is back in and running.
Im sure everyones situation is different. I lost a lobe on a solid BBC cam a few years back and the debris wiped out most of the bearings. At 12.99 a bottle, Id rather add a half bottle of Redline additive per oil change than chance having to go thru the entire engine again.
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