To any or all of the T700R4 experts out there is this possible and has anybody on the HAMB used this method for locking up their convertor. Sorry about the bad format... <CENTER>No Electric 700R4 Converter Lockup </CENTER></PRE> I am going from memory (12 years ago) here so my details may not be 100% accurate, the guy who modified and built my 700R4 that was in my 82 diesel Blazer added a ball in the solenoid , how it works is at about 36 mph the converter will lock up and remain locked untilyou either step on the brake or the speed drops below 36 mph, he said I didn't have to hook up any wires to the trans and it would work ok, he also said it was possible to kill the engine in a panic stop if you locked up the brakes but was more worried about killing the engine while driving in snow and making a panic stop, he also said that it might unlock the converter if you held it WOT at hwy speeds under certain conditions, all I know is if you counted the shifts from a standing stop the trans shifted like a 5 speed automatic and had engine braking until you got to about 35 mph and the converter unlocked, you could force the converter to unlock by tapping the brake at hwy speeds.Remove pan, filter, solenoid There is a .310 steel ball insideWith ball removed.Hole that solenoid goes into I found this on another web page Also no electric is needed for convertor l/up. Installing a 1/4" check ball ( same size as used in the 700) into the hole on the end of the solenoid will l/up the convertor in 2, 3 and 4th. It downshifts very harshly though since the convertor is locked. A 5/16" check ball is OK also. I have found the brake light switch cancel feature un necessary for 90% of cars. Also you speak of the convertor un locking on down hill coasting and saving some gas as the rpm drops. What is happening inside the trans is a one way sprag is "over running" and can over heat if you have a long coast. The sprag is designed to over run, but not for a long period. At low rpm the cooler/lube flow is reduced.</PRE>
Almost certainly that trans has a Fairbanks (now Superior) hydraulic lock up kit installed in the valve body. AFAIK, you can't just turn it electrically anymore. I've installed the kits before but have never tried to reverse the install. edit: I'm not getting what you're saying about the sprag. The sprag is over running continuously in fourth gear. It doesn't have anything to do with the lockup feature of the converter.
I have never heard of this system before but I see problems. First off, it's an '82 tranny which are extremely weak. But the system you posted will certainly create high tranny fluid temperatures due to the converter going into lock-up at not only a given speed but at such a low speed. High fluid temps will tear up the tranny. A lock-up converter is a good thing because it will keep fluid temps lower at cruising speed. But coming in too soon or not unlocking when needed will increase temps.
It has no way to "cool" the tranny fluid, but it keeps fluid temps low due to less friction durring lock-up.
Ha Ha! Well Vick I am still drinkin' my coffee and maybe I'm not the best at wording things. But a converter that comes in too early or won't disengage when it should creates various issues. One of them will be additional heat. This is why when towing with a DD you should not be towing in lock-up. Many guys that tow bitch that the tranny in their truck is crap because it does not last. What they are not telling you is that they are towing in lock-up. The tranny in my '01 Super Duty has 177,000 miles on it from towing and working. While nothing lasts forever, knowing how to use something and take care of it will last a long time. I know, that last line is lame but how many people do or even care.
I thought the lock up feature was for towing? If its not for towing then what good is it? Please dont roast me too much as I dont know a lot about auto transmissions.
I know I have never seen that setup before, I lock mine up thorugh the 4th gear pressure switch. Not sure I would want lockup in 2nd and 3rd but I know it was factory available in either 200r4s or 700r4s at some point.
[QUOTE="T'RANTULA";8058419]I thought the lock up feature was for towing? If its not for towing then what good is it? Please dont roast me too much as I dont know a lot about auto transmissions. [/QUOTE] On an OD tranny the lock up is to lower cruising RPM. What waddyacare is trying to say is that if the converter is looked up too soon that the transmission will have trouble doing what it is supposed to do. I have seen lockup converters hooked up with a toggle switch and left locked up all the time, eventually the converter comes apart. It is a kind of a balancing act with a lockup, they don't want to remain unlocked for extended periods and they don't want to remain locked up for extended periods either.
Well if nothing else that is a good proviso to know about. Still not sure after all the chat whether it is a good idea or not, but sure sounded simple when I first read it.
Mine used to work fine, but has just started locking/unlocking at cruising speeds. What does this mean? I have it unplugged for now (no lockup) but I don't wan't to harm the tranny? Rich
Some converters cool better (more efficient) with the clutch locked up and some cool better with the clutch off. Has to do with the converter design and fluid routing within the converter. I am talking only 700R4 here both production and aftermarket. 95%+ of trans heat comes from the torque converter.
If you run it unlocked all the time it is the same as trunning an altered stall converter, you may or should experience higher operating temps in your transmission. Locking and unlocking at cruising speed sounds like your controler is taking a dump on ya. I personally think that an electric control is better, even if you run off a toggle switch and just lock it up when you reach cruising speed. Painless wireing sellls a setup that works well or so I have been told.
Same here. When it goes into 4th it locks up the TC. The funny thing is, being an '82 Th700R4 the early lockup probably is keeping the TC from grenading And unless the transmission has been modified, I would not run in OD unless the TC is locked. IIRC the way the pump works is different and requires the lockup function in 4th to properly lubricate/pressurize the internals.
This setup makes no sense. All 700R4s and 200-4Rs are hydrolically capable of lockup after 1st. gear. This setup will apply lockup right on top of 2nd gear and most likley chug-a-lug. It will also lug the engine down on a coasting downshift until it shifts back to 1st. It would not matter if power is on or off and pressure switches inside the trans would be rendered usless. That is the same as having a stuck solenoid in the apply position. Use the Bowler Transmission lockup control kit. It is very simple to install and applies lockup 8 seconds after 4th gear. Bill
When my 700r shifts into 4th gear the rpms drop to about 1200.This doesnt seem normal shouldnt it be more like 1900?It is a complete dog and it takes longer to pass people.I dont think its locking up properly but i dont know much about transmissions...
I run mine on a toggle and brake switch in series. I use it only for cruising above 50 mph. When it locks up ( tranny in 4th ) I see about 300 rpm drop.
Sounds more like either a power issue or too low of rear end gear. My money is on the rear gear. If it is a factory GM converter chances are the lock-up in the converter went bad. GM had a lot of problems with that.
I have heard of people running non-lockup converters in od transmissions, and the rpm difference is about 300 to 400 in a lockup and non-lock up. as far as the transmission living longer or not. does it make a difference ?
the torque converter has 1 clutch. granted it is big but if you lock it up too early that clutch is taking all the abuse. imagine being in high gear in your manual transmission and only going 20mph and gassing it. if your motor makes enough power you will roast the clutch from it slipping.... when the TC isn;t locked up it creates heat from the friction of the turbine slipping/spinning. when the TC is 1 to 1 aka. locked up you don;t get the heat from the friction/slipping/spinning of the turbine. but you only want the TC locked up when you are at highway cruising speeds where throttle input changes minimally. with the TC locked up to early it will have harsh up and down shifts and thats more wear and tear on the converter clutch. i really hope some of that made sense. i'm having a hard time explaining things with this keyboard.
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