Hot Rods Toymaker's Evil Twin Engine Dragster

Thanks Tim, I pulled it apart and found the input "Twisted Off" like I knew already. After thinking of options I got to thinking and remembered the car creeping so I had to hold the brake and I'm thinking I didn't release it quick enough. I dunno but finances right know only allow to replace the input and do some testing

 

Hmm, how are you gonna fit a SM465 in there?

Best of luck.

 

Thanks Claymore, I got it put together with the Clutch and Transmission repaired early Sat morning to make the show. Had a great time @ the 'Knockout and now I'm ready to run it again...........with a little finesse to try to keep it together

 

The TWIN is alive and well (although quiet lately) and I recieved my entry confirmation to the Billetproof Hot Rod Eruption Drags in Toutle WA August 26th. With a little finesse I hope to bring it home in 1 piece
http://www.billetproof.com/billetproofnews/templates/?a=73&z=12

 

Rocky, Looking forward to seeing you at Toutle, If there is anything I can help you with, PM me. Marty

 

Thank You Marty! maybe a period Tow Vehicle

 

Would this one work ?

 

Thats COOL, needs to carry my group 31 "Jumper Battery".

 

Took the TWIN to a local car show and decided on an "Easy" Test Launch...........Damn if it didn't break the input again! So after a night of depression I go to my good friend Jerry Turner of Turner's Auto Wrecking with the toughts of somehow adding an 1 3/8" input to my 3 speed box. Jerry says check the Tranny rack and LOW AND BEHOLD, Ford made my (mid 60's to late 70's) trans with the 1 3/8" input, and Jerry has a shelf of them!
I know what may of you are saying, "Just by a Shaft" but this project has been built with "Stuff", I have more in the Axles and Clutch than the complete car. So today I begin beating my head against the wall , taking it all apart and still planning on making BilletProof WA next weekend, photos at 11!

 

Git r done!!

 

Thanks Poofus!

 

Rocky, I have this 1.3/8 10 spline shaft, if it will work for you it is yours!

 

How long is it Marty? "O" in my amazement I missed the tape measure

 

I may take ya up on it but I'd have to add a drive line, or maybe a long coupler if they make it. HMMMMMMMMM

 

It is 13" long,the spline on the rear is 1.3/8 16.

 

Dang Rocky, I know the tape is upside down and all.......... hehehehehe

 

That's OK, he probably stood on his head so he could read it.

 

You guys go easy on Rocky, BTW this should be easier to read.

 

Hahaha, Tom knows me well! Marty hang on to it and we'll talk at BilletProof this weekend. I'm going together with what I have now and will/could make the change this winter. It's about 1/2 way out right now ans I looked with my Borescope and found it broke clean where the shaft goes into the disc. Next post will have pics

 

Rocky, Just a thought, at Bulletproof, why couldn't you make your start from the "burnout box" instead of the starting line? That way it would put less strain on your parts, spinning in the water with lots of smoke.

 

1 3/8" x 16 spline couplers, and driveshafts can be gotten from Lenco, or Stange Engineering. If you check on the Classis Funnycar Board, or Inside Top Alcohol you could possibly find what you need used. 1 3/8" x 16 spline were used in the 1970's in T/F, and F/C's (some Nostalgia F/C's still use the same stuff).

 

Thanks Kenneth!

 

I could do that and may but ultamately my goal is to hammer it with the tires dry
It's all apart, broke like I thought and while cleaning up the 1 3/8" input I noticed it's longer. After taking a nap and thinking about it I decided I wasn't giving up so I cut the splines with a die grinder for my length, ground off the splines not required (keeping every thing cool) and once I was past the hardened surface I chucked it up and finished it with a Carbide bit. The results are satisfactory as far as I'm concerned, I didn't disturb the hardened surface of the splines or the shaft behind it. Now I have to figure out a throwout brg for the LARGE bearing retainer
A recap of the tranny mods so far while I can still remember. A ford 1968 Pass/light truck 3.03 case, mid 60's van very short tail housing and main shaft that originally had a fixed yoke with a nut. After determining the splines were common I cut off the threads and made a short slip yoke. The 1 3/8" input is from a 1963 ford (6 cyl p/U I believe) and all the gears have been removed to make it just an in&out box. The shifter top is a T-150 from a jeep and I'm checking on seal bearings so I can get away from filling the case with oil all the way to the bearings. Off to Valley Friction tomorrow to get the larger hubs put in my discs and see what I going to do about the T-O bearing.

 

Nice twist in the splines Rocky. I made some axles like that for a '50 Chevy back in the '60s.

 

I hope you don't do it again in October

 

Thats thinkin Roc, you could get some salts and case harden the front if you wanted to..........

 

That could be your problem Rocky is that the stock input shafts are too hard (like the way stock axles are). Recently I cut down a 1 3/4" dia x 10 spline input shaft (that came from B&J racing transmissions) for a Nitro FC, and it seemed to me to cut easier in the lathe than a "stocker" input shaft.

 

Put those twins in a '50 Chevy coupe and I'll bet I could. Hell, I did it with a stock stovebolt six.

 

I would agree, when I had Liberty Pro-Shift my Super T-10 in another car they.........."O" whats the word.............softened, and straightened it. The input I machined was almost like Tool Steel, but I'm hoping just the increased DIA will stop the breakage and I don't find another weak link farther back.

 

Thinking the word you are looking for is "annealed".