If you have a heavy truck, and really need to go like hell or pull giant loads then the 383 is the thing. Sell the 327 and buy a 383. I agree that a 327 is a cool motor for a hot rod, would be a lot cheaper to build, and nicer to drive and buy gas for. You might be surprised how well a genuine 300 HP motor will perform in a light car. It's your choice. But notice that the more experienced guys think the 327 is a great motor, and being able to brag that you have a 500HP engine is a waste of time and money.
How old is whom? Dad was 70 when he passed, but enjoyed his toys like his SS. Even his boat had a 502 in it. I don't even know the weight of the truck. I do know the bed sides are 18 gauge and the bed itself is 8 gauge. I do NOT intend to tow. I might put my bike in the bed, but that's even unlikely.
Had I bought it, I would totally agree, lesson learned. I guess I'm lucky I didn't buy it... in a sad sort of way... lol
870 casting number 327's are corvette blocks. You might get some decent money to buy the block you need. If you were closer i'd swap you a 350 all day long for it. Might even swap 2! Good luck i hope it all works our for you.
I'm more bummed that I've been spending hours to learn 350 build techniques. I think I've received a LOT of positive feedback regarding the possibilities of the 327, and I feel more comfortable now that I will be able to get a level of performance that will satisfy my needs, and my dad's vision. Heck, he's the one that bought the motor and started to build it.
Man build that 327 you can't go wrong I have seen some bad ass 327 sbc in my time... It's a win win deal
I don't know the story behind the purchase and I'm NOT judging you. This is a good time to bring up a point. Anytime you buy something you should run the numbers before you plunk down the Ben Franklins. This is good advice for everyone and an example of what happens if you don't. When I sell one of my cars, I always tell them "come look at it!" Often times my reputation preceeds me (never burned anyone) and they know I'm straight up and brutally honest. But that is not the case for everyone. I tell them "if you spend $500 to see it and it's not what you have in mind, $500 well spent!, if you spend the same $500 and it is exactly what you want $500 well spent!" I am sure that you will find a solution and end up with a great engine no matter how you get there.
I just picked up a '67 Vette with the 327/350hp motor. It SCREAMS. Nothing wrong with a 327 for the street.
Sorry, thought I was more clear in my previous posts. I did NOT buy the motor, the truck, or any parts. This truck project was my step-father's and he past away several weeks back. I was given the truck by him, via his will. I knew very little about the truck. I knew it was a Stude, from the 50's, and I heard him brag about his 500HP motor that he built for it. When I picked up the truck, the motor was in a different location, and was not built. It has pistons and a crank installed, but that is it. No documentation, no receipts, only stories and a dial-caliper. Sorry for the confusion.
Just use the 327 block to build a 383, then tell everyone it is a 327. If using identical parts a 383 will run harder than a 327 every day of the week. Torque is what gets ya going. These guys that say a 327 is better have obviously never been a car with a good 383.
Corvette restorers covet the 870 blocks. It might bring you some good $ and you could pick up a nice 0010 350 block.
the shorter stroke 327 will really pick up the revs fast i run one in a stock car and was winning about 25 years ago at least i went home with a check every nite give it a off road or 30-30 cam and let er rip, maybee you got vette guts in it anyway?? is it solid lifter??
It has not guts in it. No cam, no heads, no balancer... It has KB122 pistons, rods and a crank. I had hopes that there might be heads, an intake, carb, or anything, still hiding for it, but it's been a few weeks and haven't found any more parts.
One of the best motors I ever owned was a 327. Ran as good as the LT-1 350 in my other ride at the time.
I will generally take a small harmonic balancer sbc over a large balancer sbc any day of the week. You can call me nuts, but, there's just something about the way they run. They're pretty rewarding the way they rev. I'd gladly trade you a couple of complete 350s for that 327.
Please don't take this the wrong way as it's meant as more complimentary of your ability to focus on a task. But- a 327 is a kick ass high revving engine that'll give you way more fun than needed. Stop thinking about it and Bolt that one together and run the rings out of it. When it breaks then build a 383. You'll want the 327 back at this point. I have both and concur with Squirell. A 327 is alot more fun. 500 HP is attainable from a 327 you just gotta spin 'em a little more and have good parts inside. Good luck, Tim
Thanks... And in all honesty, it's not like there's a dyno of any sort, within several hours of where I live. Who wants to help me spec 327 parts?
It's hard to be thrilled about something I know nothing of. I do value my time and energy, and I spent quite a bit on a misguided effort. I should have looked block casting numbers up first, but thought I knew what I had, and only once I felt comfortable did I feel the urge to investigate the odd casting marks. Having been reassured it's not trash (exaggeration, I know) I have accepted that what I learned also applies in some manor, to a 327. Now I'm off to learn more about them!
I've been learning about engines for almost 40 years, I still have a lot to learn. Two weeks is nothing
Want to know of a really neat engine in a Model A? <<< 010 block that had coding of possibly being a late 327 block. Machinist said it is of high nickel alloy based on how his tooling had to be sharpened while boring and line boring this two bolt main block. For the street? I built a 307 cast crank .010 under, .030 bore, double hump head 1.94/1.50, Speed Pro hypereutectic coated skirt 9.25 or so, 234 degree @ .050/.488 lift K1106 cam engine. I used the HEAVIEST flywheel of my stash of junk. It ain't the world beater for horsepower, but it's very driveable. On the street, torque talks. Speed and horsepower happen later because of the previous.
Meh... It's not the end of the world. It's a couple week setback in planning and education, but it'll be fine. I didn't buy any parts, and I wasn't heart set on any particular configuration, just bummed I wasn't smart enough to catch it earlier.
Let me try and decifer your "nerd mechanic talk"... 307 cast crank .010 under - No idea .030 bore - Size over stock piston diameter, adds to displacement double hump head 1.94/1.50 - Heads I presume, and chamber volumes? Speed Pro hypereutectic coated skirt 9.25 - Piston type and compression 234 degree @ .050/.488 - Specs on Cam, not certain the implications of the degree or duration The heavy flywheel I know, as a guy who wheels a 4-banger, the flywheel is like artificial torque.
I'd take a 327 all day long. Now spend a little while learning the ins and outs of them. As soon as I started reading your post,I thought you were going to say it was a 305. But it's a 327. Great motor. Your cool factor just went up. Be happy.
327 crank has 3.25" stroke. Cast means it's made of cast iron, not forged steel. A steel crank is stronger. .030" bore--yup, that's the size over stock piston diameter. Usually engines are overbored to get the cylinder bores "straight", because they wear more at the top where the pressure on the rings is the greatest. Double hump heads were used on the 327 performance engines, they had small chambers. The numbers are valve sizes, 1.94" intake valves, 1.50" exhaust. The really high performance heads installed in some engines had 2.02" intake and 1.60" exhaust. Pistons--yup Cam specs--This is it's own book....but the duration number 234 is the degrees the lobe is higher than .050" more than it's nominal diameter. This is also called "effective duration". A cam with this much duration will have a power band from around 2500 to 5500 rpm, plus or minus about 500 or so. The lift numbers are how far the valves open.