used phosphoric etch and prep on this hood and it worked awesome. Only sprayed about 8 ounces on the hood and rubbed it in with a scotch brite and let it set over night. Washed it off this morning and was very pleased. 15.00 a gal at home depot. This hood was prety crusty. You can see where it was pitted.
Looks like it gets the job done pretty well. Does this stuff make it impossible to have kids or do anything to my lungs, or is it relatively "safe" (I've never heard of this product, so I'm really interested...I have a lot of crusty old parts to strip and this looks awesome). Any before pics?
It's phosphoric acid and a few other things. The stuff stinks but not as bad as muratic acid. Wear gloves and eye protection. Going to try it on a 37 coupe body. Thinking it will take about 2 gallons.
While drying the acid reaction can form some crust on the surface. I usually scrub the surface thoroughly with scotch brite to remove the crust while rinsing with clean water. Follow with a fast and complete drying. BTW Unless stated on the package this is not a rust converter.
It's hotter than hell here. It's dry prety quick. I just sprayed some on a rag and wiped it on there to keep it from rusting.
Just use OSPHO for the first time this weekend on the underside of my truck. that stuff really works!!
Phosphoric acid is a great rust remover. It is very heavy bodied (thick) and takes a lot of water to wash off. Make sure you get it all off or it will continue to etch and cause issues when you try to prime/paint. I KNEW those 27 years I spent at the chemical plant would come in handy someday!
I don't know about OSPHO, but the MSDS for Phosphoric Prep & Etch says to keep it away from "bases, aluminum, brass, and bronze". Says Hydrogen gas may form.
Probably not not what you are looking for, OSPHO does not remove rust, it turns rust into an iron oxide rust fighter.
I bought a bottle of Ospho last night. Using it on a few small spots on my Plymouth. Thanks for the info
It's not something that is highly toxic. They use it in food and beverages. It has a sour taste. It burns a bit if you get it in a cut. I'll bet it would burn like hell if you got it in your eye. It has worked really well for me. It removes (or converts) rust well and leaves a protective coating that will keep it from rusting for a while. As stated though, if you don't completely remove before painting it may cause adhesion problems (depends on the paint). It it is used on zinc plated parts, it will remove the zinc. It doesn't seem to bother chrome but I wouldn't let a nice chrome piece soak in it in case it might etch it.. It's not a solvent and will not remove paint. I wouldn't even consider muriatic acid for cleaning ferrous metals. Just the vapors will cause surrounding metal to rust.
It has not removed any paint on the stuff I have done. Don't get it on the concrete and if you do clean it up prety quick. It will etch the concrete or eat it up prety good if you get enough on it and let it set.
so after you use this product and wash it off...what would you guys recommend putting on the "treated area" so rust does not return?
I've used Ospho for years and it has some rust converting properties to it where it will turn the rust black if you leave it on there. I discovered the Home Depot one a while back and have been using it, but I don't let it dry. I use a scotchbrite pad soaked in the liquid and scrub the surface to remove the surface rust. Then, before it dries, I take a clean cloth and wipe the clean metal of all traces of it. If you don't touch the part with bare hands it will stay that way for a long time, and it also will take whatever paint is on the part and clean it so it looks fresher. It does not remove the paint, just removes the top dead layer. Another great product is Evaporust, but you have to soak the part in it for a day or so. However, the rusty metal will come out like the day it was made and any paint that was on the part will look new also. I soaked some cowl lights in it for a few days and they were a rusty mess when they went in. A couple of days later they came out like the day they left the factory, but I had to get some WD 40 on them real quick as they wanted to start rusting almost immediately again. Don
What is the name of the stuff from Homeless Depot,& where is it located in the store? I went to Lowes today asking about some metal prep/phosphorus & the paint dept said thay didnt have anything like that.
Home Depot doesn't have a lot of things, I'm finding out. I buy mine at my local Ace Hardware. It's usually sold as rusty metal cleaner or concrete cleaner. Check the ingredients.
Unless Home Depot stores carry different inventory in different areas, you should be able to find it down the paint aisle. Let me see if I can find a picture and sku number for you. Here it is: http://www.homedepot.com/Paint/h_d1...angId=-1&keyword=etch+and+prime&storeId=10051 Don
I've been using it on my floors and frame. I didn't wash it off though because of the rust converting properties. Oil based paint sticks to it, and is whats recommended by ospho. I just used it on the underside of my floor pans after treating them.
Thought I'd mention it is still an acid and even dry will not play well with some epoxy primers unless neutralized and it isn't neutralized unless washed off while it is still wet. If it dries just reapply and give it a few minutes to reactivate the dried residue, then lots of water, soap, water and more water then as mentioned dry quickly then your ready for your w&g and standard prep. Especially if your using good epoxy primer.
If you can scare up some chromic acetate, mix it 10% with the phosphoric acid and you'll have yourself a rust converter like rust mort. Last place I worked I was able to get some and made a couple of gallons of rust converter for cheap. I mixed it in old one quart plastic milk jugs.
Absolutely correct, you have to get every trace of it off before you prime. I use lacquer thinner and lots of clean rags, then wax and grease remover, and finally scuff it with a scotchbrite and then another dewaxing. Primer will not stick to it if you don't get it off. Don
I used it for deep pits in the days when you put filler right on the metal... I guess it's not done that way anymore. Still had to scrub and sand it off as much as possible.
IT DOES WORK>I can attest to that.It will also cause adhesion problems with epoxy primers if not THROUGHLY washed off.Ask me how i know.
In the paint depart, next to where they have all the thinners and alcohol. It is called phosphoric etch and prep, seriously...
The good thing about the stuff from home depot it's cheap or Tsc has ospho but it's 35.00 a gallon and the other from home depot is 15.00. I am going to do a whole body when it cools off a bit. Right now it's so hot that it's dry in a few minutes. I am thinking it will take around three to do it.
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