Projects Hot rod wiring-crimp on or solder?

Reading a book on this subject now. More of a tune up really. Solder does make a good connection for a lot things. When done properly. When over heated during the process makes the wire brittle and doesn't take much movement to get fatigue and break. Also noted is the relative low melting point of solider if the wire has the possibility of getting warm. In most cases a crimped connection will be more than sufficient. Shrink tubing with the adhesive to seal the connection. Commonly used in the marine industry.

 

It's nice to see an intelligent conversation where everyone agrees there is more than one right way to do it.

Don

 

I have wired MANY cars. I both crimp and solder connections with the really thin electrical solder, then slide heat shrink tubing over the butt connector. Radio Shack for butt connectors and solder. NAPA for GM replacement spades (male and female) , I use factory spade housings salvaged from junkyards, I buy heat shrink tubing from the local harware store and cut it into thirds (1-1/2" long pieces) and use larger appliance butt connectors for multiple wires. On grounds, I use harware store - appliance lugs (terminal with holes) as they are heavy duty. Solder with solder gun, shrink the tubing with a BIC lighter, (heat not flame) use a spay paint cap with slits cut on each side to hold the wire when soldering over carpeting or where the solder might drip and cause damage. Cover carpeting with towels as solder and carpet do not mix.

 

When wiring up a car , I do both . I always solder and use shrink tube to keep dry . Never had a problem yet with one coming loose .
Now for the people that love the crimp connectors that are mostly made in china , well you can keep them ! I will use the old skool way of soldering everytime for a good tight connection !

Retro Jim

 

soldering and crimp connectors are good but what is absolutely wrong is scotch locks, twisted and taped, and wire nuts.

 

Yeah no joke. We need more threads like this and less drama...

 

neat idea, thanks!

 

How come nobody mentioned wire nuts? seems like the cars I get stuck working on have wire nuts and rolls and rolls of electrical tape use for the wiring. HAHA. yea I feel that both(crimp and/or soldier) are good ways like said before. I think the biggest thing is sealing the connection so the copper wire doesnt corrode and lose connection.

 

I generally crimp and use shrink tubing. No Solder.

My truck's previous owner apparently loved wire nuts for everything electrical...oh, and lag bolts for everything else. The guy was a menace.

 

Following MR FORDs example I crimp and solder everything now. I'll never go back, it's clean and works!

 

If I understand correctly, you would run a wire from [let's say] the dimmer switch to the headlight without any splicing along the way and solder the connectors in place at both ends. There's nothing wrong with that especially if it gives you piece of mind that the wire will stay connected (it is your build after all).

I think the concern of the naysayers is that if the dimmer switch ever goes out, they wouldn't want to get the soldering iron out to make the swap (again, that's your business - not theirs since you're the one doing the work).

Making a good enough connection isn't a concern doing it either way (the connector without the solder is sufficient) as long as the connection is shielded from shorting out. It's just a matter of preference.

Splicing wires midstream is the same thing. If you're confident that the connection is good, it won't pull apart, and it's wrapped well enough to not short out, your only question is "how big and lumpy do I want this splice to look?"

Keep in mind that the reason we use automotive wire is that it's soft and flexible. When the wire sits against the car (body, frame, firewall, etc), it gives enough to keep the car from rubbing the insulation off. Any splice you make including twisting and taping wires makes a hard spot in the wire and it needs to be protected. That's why splicing connectors come with that "hard" plastic shield on them.

 

Another vote for crimping, solder, and shrink tube with glue inside. I prefer Sta-Kon terminal ends, and their crimper is second to none.

 

In the Ford electrical classes we were taught to solder whenever possible, but un-insulated crimps with adhesive lined shrink tube was a close second.

Don't know if you guys have seen them, but I've recently started using the crimp connectors with the adhesive lined shrink tube already installed. Makes for quick, clean weathertight connections... Should say that I use a pair of quality Mac crimping pliers, and never the chepo flat style you get at walmart...

Also gotta say that I snag whatever kind of weathertight connectors I can off of junkyard cars and harneses. Just leave about 6-12" of pigtail to splice into your harness, works very well.... as long as the wires are the same gauge

 

using the spray paint cap is a great idea and makes sense.

 

Ancor makes some very high quality crimp style terminal ends and you can find them at most marine type stores. Their wiring is also high grade with every strand being individually tinned to prevent corrosion.

Don

 

As already stated, the new crimp terminals with the solder inside and that heat shrink are pretty good. They are my new favorites.

But for when a terminal is not needed, I solder and shrink-wrap.

 

THE WORLD HAS BEEN SAVED!

There are insulated connectors on the market that have a low temperture sodier built in.

Just place over the wire and heat up with a heat gun.

All sodiered and shrink wraped in one easy step.

I bought mine from Fastenall.

 

Yep, those are the ones I was talking about in the previous post. They seem to be the perfect connector.

 

did you try to pull them back apart? if it gets warm [engine compartment] does it fall apart?

 

Well Don, I like steak, but that isn't the point.

Like most everyone has agreed, using the right tools, the best parts available, and following the process (crimping or soldering) correctly, either method will work and will work well. Sadly, many of the local auto parts stores sell "less than ideal quality" crimp-on connectors, but, many of us younger guys never learned how to solder correctly. Yes, I include myself in that group.

I have wired a few vehicles, using a variety of kits, and feel confident in my wiring and its crimp-on connectors. If someone insisted that I solder a wiring job, I would have to say "no." I don't know that either method is better, its just whichever one you feel more confident in. However, I must say that I believe crimping (with a high quality crimper) will get the job done much faster than with a soldering gun.

writerDennis
Author of Automotive Wiring: a Practical Guide to Wiring Your Hot Rod or Custom Car

 

Hi Paul, Nice car! Can't wait to see it.I just finished wiring a '56 Chevy for a customer, had to remove alot of wire and twist connectors and twisted together wire connections. It was UGLY. But the question is soldered or crimped? I use a good quality connector (insulated) and a good quality crimp tool. Under the hood or anywhere the connection is subject to weather I heat shrink it too. I'm in the camp of solder can get brittle and break, though It's never happened to me, just lucky I guess. Normal Norman

 

If you do solder, don't let the solder wick up into the insulation of the wire.

 

That's what I do, then heat shrink...

 

Chrysler electrical classes tell us to use a w crimp then solder over it. Weird because evidently OEMs don't solder anything.

 

Should you choose to solder, don't blow( as in 'with the mouth') to cool the joint. Apparently, that cause brittleness.Whichever you do, good luck; the 40 looks ace!

 

No, if the ambient was warm enough to remelt the solder, the insulation on your wires would already be melted or burnt.

 

Is the total cost of the "Proper Tools" more or less than the cost of hiring an automotive elecrtical guy to wire a Roadster with just head and tail lights? Bob

 

$15-$21. That is the price.

 

What is cheaper and less labor intensive? The crimp wins every time.

Bob

 

Good point. There is more than one way to solder something and I always recommend tinning the wire first. Of course this involves flux and the solder goes where the flux is applied providing the area sees enough heat.

After tinning, its a good practice to remove the excess flux. In industry, they use a combination of water and alcohol or acetone.

Bob