So for the first time i installed lower patch panels for my 57 truck front fenders ones ok(using ok very loosely) and the other has a major peak any suggestion On what i should do? hammer it? Cut reweld? Push the truck into oncoming traffic?
If the peak is at your weld seam, it probably needs to be cut and re-welded to relieve the stress of having to much metal. If it is above or below your weld seam you may need to heat / cool it and shrink it that way. As stated above it's really hard to tell what you need to do with out actually seeing it.
Shrinking methods may be of help here. Usually the re-worked metal is stretched and 'oil-cans' as well.
If you're not going to show us pictures, then maybe you could describe how you fit and welded it? the more detail, the more likely it is that someone can help you figure out what went wrong, and how to fix it. Hopefully you didn't use the whole patch panel, you cut it to fit the fender, and if so you can just cut off the old weld and put a new panel on if it comes to that.
If you did a lap seam, go away. You deserve what you got. If you did a butt weld, we can help. Waiting on the picture.
here they are i butted them together then used claps and slowely tacked away after words i realized there was a pretty good size peak. but the peak is at the seam of my weld i did grind on it a bit but im afraid to grind off to much
this is my first time doing something like this brother was suppose to help me but he showed up later hungover and not to helpfull gotta love family
That was going to be my answer. If yes, carefully grind just the weld off of the back side and slowly hammer along the seam evenly. Metal shrinks when it's welded, it stretches when hammered on dolly, hammer that seam out and it shoud go nuetral.
If you can't access the backside with it on the truck, take it off. Use a dolly behind the high spot and gently tap the ridge down. Work back and forth across the ridge moving the metal a little at a time. Sneak up on it, don't bash all at once. Rub your outstretched hand gently over the area to find the high spots. If you hammer too hard, pinching the steel between the hammer and dolly, you will actually stretch the metal. Then the problem gets worse. Overall, I think your patch job looks great so far for a beginner.
yes i used a mig on it. i can take it off so i'll hammer on it sorry dumb question please dont shoot me but the dolly will be on the inside and the hammering will be going on in the outside? correct. i'm more of a mechanical/frame guy but trying to learn to do body work as well
Absolutely! The dolly on the inside and the hammer out side, and hammer on the dolly. Like I said, when you weld, the metal in the area contracts and shrinks. What you trying to do is stretch it just the right amount to lay flat again. If you over stretch it, it will get wavey and "oilcan". Then it's time to shrink again... Do take the time to smooth off the weld line on the inside though, 'cause if you got any penatration at all you will have some lumps and bumps. If you don't smooth those out before hammering you will pound all sorts of weird shapes into your metal that will drive you nuts trying to get rid of.
thanx will do and thanx everyone for your help i'm gonna hit this fender tonight after work and hopefully not do to much damage will definatly take my time
the fender really doesn't know which side has the hammer and which has the dolly. if I couldn't get a dolly behind no way I'd waste all that time removing the fender. I don't see any reason why the peak can't be knocked down with nothing behind. if you need a dolly, make one out of an old leaf spring or something thick and flat that will fit in there. what kind of hammers and dollies you guys got where you are stretching a mig weld? I need to get some of those.
Hopefully you can get it into shape. I think so. Next time....consider not using all the patch panel, they give you more than you need, and it's usually a good idea to save as much of the original metal as you can.
^^^ what squirrel said. I've had people show up with a $50.00 patch panel for a flat rust hole that didn't need anything more than a free piece of sheetmetal from the cut-offs pile. if you need a patch panel always use the smallest part of a patch panel, that's how I'd do it. my favorite patch panel story was the guy who had an NOS factory replacement tail panel for his car I was working on, I told him I could just make the patches out of flat sheet but he insisted I cut up his tail panel and use it. he just was not listening so I stopped arguing. I made my patches from flat sheet and sold the panel on ebay for $200.00
Well in this case the whole patch was needed it look good but once the paint was removed it was rusted threw holes and bondo
sorry one last dumb question the body hammer kit my brother lent me has 3 hammers and 3 dollies. i searched the web and few said to use the round few said the flat. so which one is it? and does it matter which dollie? thanx guys
use the flat or lowest curve form. The one you what to use matches the good fender in the same region. I press the flat or sight crown into the region to be 'lifted' to match and then hammer light hits around the dolly's contact spot. And keep shifting both around. You can also use a torch to heat a ($.25) quarter sized region and shrink it back w/a damp cloth.
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