Just wondering Are these factors or non issues, I've never noticed one to be better than the other but I was not looking for it either. Slight increase in leverages with larger 168 and slower cranking speed. Or the opposite for 153, less leverage higher speed. One starter better than the other- stronger - fitment - availability- designed Converter bolt pattern options.
All I know is with a chevy to 39 trans adapter (crager,speed gems,wilcap etc ) you have to use the 153 along with a 50 merc pressure plate for clearance issues. Not sure other than that.
I use a truck set up myself, big cast iron bellhousing, big flywheel & clutch. The best benefit is that the starter bolts to the bellhousing. The clutch also drops out without pulling the bellhousing. I've used the same set up in a Nova, '65 Belair and of course a couple of trucks. This works for stick applications only! On automatics, I really have no preference, but like to use a motor that came with a matching flywheel and starter. I always have MY starters rebuilt. Bob
No good reason not to use either one. But on a 36 I did I used a 153 and it just didn't feel right when it started. I'll make an effort to not do it again. Jus sayin
Depends on if you are using an obsolete starter I guess, if you use a modern high torque gear reduction starter it is nox nix. If you are running an older style starter and lots of lead and or compression than the bigger wheel gives you a little more leverage.
To give you an idea of how they were designed, usually in the 60s-70s you'd find the smaller one on the six and small V8 engines (such as the 307), and the larger one on the bigger engines (350 and big blocks). Also the large one was used in most or all trucks. So, the smaller flywheel was a light duty thing.
Wrong! You can use the 168 flywheel with the Cragar adapter etc with the Merc clutch setup. also use the early starter that bolts to the bell.
153- small block, 168- big block. Ive never dealt with a car six, but the 194, 250, and 292 sixes In my old trucks were all 168s. The 168 is a necessity for the big block, as the starter is too far away on a 153. For a standard, the 168 allows the usage of an 11', or 12' clutch, where as the 153 is a 10.5" clutch. what to use, in my case is physics. Of course the 11' is behind my big block, and I had previously run 11's behind my small blocks. I have since realized my small blocks aren't as stout as I wanted to believe, and use the 153, with the 283 harmonic balancer, to rev quicker, and it uses less horsepower to turn(parasitic loss).
You should also consider headers if you are running full tube, close to the block versions. Some headers run so tight to the block that they require a mini-starter. Many mini-starters will not work with a 168 flywheel. Other than that I really don't see much of a difference other than personal preference or what you have on hand.
i usually use the 153 tooth 12-3/4" flexplate , but have use the 14" 168 tooth. i really don't see much difference between them in starting. FYI......the chevy ZZ4 355 HP and the ZZ383 425 HP crate motors comes with the 153 tooth installed
I just put a "mini starter" on the 454 in my 55 chevy. It has the big flexplate. The starter I got is a stock replacement for a 1999 chevy pickup with a 454. It bolted right on and fits great and works fine. I had to get the correct bolts from the Chevy dealer, $4 for the pair, 12338064. they have a metric shank and 3/8" threads, and the knurl is two sizes. Shaved 12 lbs off my hot rod. Not that it has anything to do with the original post...but I thought I'd mention it.
So that explains it! I too get my starter bolts from GM and could never figure out why they fit better than the aftermarket ones. The GM bolts are also the correct length as well.
The metric shank is only used on the newer starters, not the old ones from the 60s-80s. Although I'm not sure of the cutoff year.
ALSO it depends on the bellhousing you are using> I had a large flywheel 168 tooth on a engine I had and put on a stock aluminum bellhousig on it and it did not fit. I found out there are different bellhousings for the flywheels. I had another bellhousing, stock aluminum, different casting number and it went right on. Pat
I had a newer GM Performance Parts mini-starter that I used the GM bolts because they were the only ones that fit properly. Unfortunately I have intermittent starting issues with it so I switched to a CSR mini-starter. For the record.... The GMPP starter was a dedicated "diagonal" bolt pattern that only fit a 153 tooth gear The CSR starter is a dual "straight" bolt pattern starter that fits both 153 and 168 gears
whew.....I'm one lucky sob, never had any of those problems and have built a plenty sbc engines. I have found the large to small fly wheel difference only to be a problem when trying to pull a stock starter outs the pile and bolt it to an engine, some crash into the fly wheel and others would work like a charm, this has to do with the diameter of the fly wheel tp the style of the cone on the starter, i have found the 4.3 liter v6 starters to fit a variety of different engines but will not work on a bbc, they fit but get half way through a revolution and it kick's back making a shriek and warm's up and burn's out...just my personal experience though....all subject to ridicule
Its not a issue as long as you are aware that the starter and flex plate / flywheel are a matched set and there are 2 different ones. For a person who isn't aware of that, watch there face when the 153 starter won't go in the hole or when the 168 starter just makes noise. I'm glad squirrel brought up the bolts and OEM mini starters. Those knurled bolts are an essential item for a starter. Regular bolts in that application cause plenty of ass aches.
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