Where do I get the early Ford tie rods and tubes kits that use a clamp instead of a jam nut. Can I get them in various lengths? I want these <-----click Not this<------click
the clamp you can get from about any early ford parts supplier. the tie rods you can just make. measure how long you need them , tap both ends left and right and then slot the ends. you can use a thin cut off wheel or use two blades in a hack saw
What type and size of tube should I use? Is the early ford tie rod size 11/16 18? Also the taps are about 90 bucks a piece..... I was hoping to buy something like the speedway kit to save money.
Early Ford tie-rod thread size is 11/16"-18 TPI . Bit of an odd size as 11/16" UNF is normally 16 TPI. The 18 TPI pitch is an automotive application so I'm told.
Hitchhiker, I'd like to commend you for your attention to detail. I hope someone has that left hand tap that may be a loaner for you and others that need it. Bob
I suggest that you use thick wall DOM tubing, no matter what size tie rod ends you use. For safety's sake, in order to deal with higher highways speeds and added stress from an engineering point-of-view, anything that gives steering components an edge is a good thing. If your are like me and don't build stuff for the public, or build a lot of front ends, a vendor like Speedway circumvents the high price a buy-in of specialty tools adds to your budget. That is, if money is an issue. Just make sure you measure twice and order once. As far as using clamps, consider this: they work because the tubing is split and flexes in order for the clamp to work. This creates two negatives: the slot weakens the end of the tube, and the clamp bends the metal in order to conform to the threads. If you're building a period correct rod, or doing a restoration, perhaps using OEM style parts is appropriate. For my money, when I'm going fast I want my steering and brakes to be as bullet-proof as I can get them. Just sayin'.
I understand what you are trying to do and the spirit you intend it to be in, but I gotta side with fortynut above. I use 7/8" .156 wall D.O.M.
Use a ford f1 or f100 tie rod. I used 2 of them. For a couple of reasons. 1) cheap. 2) more importantly ford tie rods are thick wall, (aprox .250). There is a reason for the thick wall. There is a lot of load (compression) on the tie rod especially at highway speeds. And a slight bowing (compression) changes the toe dramatically. That death wobble that no one can seam to find a reason for. Sure it has to be narrowed. And the nay sayers will say it isn't safe. BS. Cut tube, and on the last I tapped both ends of cut for 5/8-18, drilled each end for rosettes, and beveled joint. Screwed it together, welded it up, and you can't tell it was spliced there, and it is the strongest part of the tie rod. The first one I did, I just used some rod that fit tight inside the tie rod. The second I tapped and screwed together, mostly because I did not want to weld until I was sure I had the proper ammount of adjustment and had the threaded portion of the tie rod ends centered in the tie rod with 0 toe. If you could get by with thinner wall tubing then Henry would have used it to save in production cost.
I have the left hand tap for tie rods. I'm getting ready to do mine. After I'm done if you cover the shipping I will let you borrow it. I think I have a couple clamps too. Shoot me a PM.
I got my 11/16 18 left and right taps at one of the local shops in Seattle, Tacoma Screw, Fastenal, Grainger.. can't remember exactly it was a few years ago but call around you should be able to find them local
How about you buy the "kit" with the jamb nuts just a 1/2 inch longer than they say you need, then take off the jamb nuts and replace with clamps. Slot the tube with a die grinder. If you only need one, it's way cheaper than buying the taps. In the future, buy all the used old Ford tie rods you see at the swap meets. Handy to have around.
CTaulbert(alliance member) makes them and has them listed in the classified section here.. Check them out...
I've tried using 7/8 .156 with clamps and success is marginal due to the fact that the tube has a tough time deflecting enough to get a good grip. I suggest if you want clamped tie rods you just get them from Macs and the clamps too. They give the lenghts in their catalog so if your creative you can play a bit with application. In one one of my rare moments of not using stock parts I wouldn't use any rusted stock tie rods. I tap up DOM on occasion and add a set screw under the clamps to lock the rod end. Not the best but in a pinch.... I don't know about the rest of you but I've never bent a stock tie rod under normal driving conditions, (no collision damage). I'd be interested in hearing if anyone else has.
Wasn't for still clamping them in the '70s? The clamps you should be able to buy at any good autoparts store then just do like alchemy said.
Remember later Ford clamps are going to be for 1" tube and won't lock on 13/16" or 7/8" tubes. Later Ford rod ends were 3/4-16 thread. I might add that Speedways tie rods are made of the same diameter material as the stock Fords. All early Ford clamps from '48 to '64 were of the 11/16 variety after that they used the same clamp system but were of the larger 3/4" size and will not work with the earlier rods. I'm not sure, but I believe Speedway sells the tapped rod ends in 2" increments which can be easily slotted with a 1/32" cut off wheel for the earlier Ford clamps which are readily available. The best deal is to just buy the whole assembly from Speedway, adjusting lenght as necesary and ditching the jamb nuts. One thing I have not added to the equation is where Speedway gets their steel, which has been beat to death here.
"Job Lot" in new york city sells the tapped and slotted tie rod tubes with clamps in certain sizes, they won't make up any custom lenghts. you can buy one longer than you need, then just cut the one ( right hand threaded ) end, and retap it by buying just the one tap.
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