About one hour run time total on fresh 327 build, big mutherthumper cam,lifters,springs,lifters won't hold lash,bleed back almost immediately. Anyone have trouble with theirs?
There lifters are junk but i suspect you ate a cam do a search or go to there website and read why good cams go bad.
im running their extrmeme energy 268 and their lifers,my motor runs great,havnt had any problems yet and im running stock springs. i soaked my lifters for a day before i put them in and used a ton of cam grease,not that little packet that they give you with the cam
Drain the oil and check for metallic debris. If you're lucky it's a lifter, if not you could have lost a cam. I've been running a Comp 268 in my coupe since '85, with their lifters and roller rockers, no problems and runs hard.
I've used a bunch of Comp Cams and various components like roller rockers over the years, nothing but good results. I think you have something else going on there. Don
Running them in two engines right now. So far so good. about 10k on one engine and 5k on the other, plus a few hours on the dyno playing with different carbs and timing setups. No problems.
Is it a Ford (Stroker) or the Chevy that they introduced in I think 62? If you want a good cam that is durable for a chevy use Lunati, they are very decent and hold up to some harsh conditions, like drag racing if you plan on doing any of that.
no problems with mine. it is a thumper hydralic, has about 4000 miles on it and it sounds and performs awsome!
Call their tech line, very helpful, get the guys name so if you call back you won't have to do the same song and dance. I have used their stuff for many years street, strip etc. never any issues. I've used solids, rollers for lifters...call them , the suggestion about draining the oil is a good one, if you can cut oil filter apart you would learn a lot more.
Just got in from garage,pulled intake & lifters so far,one lifter completely shot,about 1/8" ground off,others fine,suspect cam is toast. Was built professionally by builder with about 45 years experience.
I built an engine with one of their kits way back in the late eighties. I still have it with no problems. Its probably like all the other companies using foreign help/parts to stay in business. Are they still made here?
did he break it in.i have used many of there cams great stuff.if the lifter is done ,the cam is done.dont use double springs for break in.
I hope you broke the cam in with just the outer springs ! If not that might be the problem right there . Too much pressure on a new lifter will cause problems . I have been using Comp cams , lifters , roller lifters , roller rockers and have never had a problem with them yet . I have used them to build engines from mild to full blown race engines and always had good luck with them . I follow the instructions to the "T" too ! I just finished a Ford 302 with a Thumper cam and went very well . Got everything adjusted and have not had any problems with the break in run time at all . I have run the engine on my test stand and have about 1+ hours run time on it now . Runs fine with no problems at all . I do know that you really must follow the instructions very closely or you will have problems . Retro Jim
Did you just use the outer valve springs for break in ? Did you have the rockers adjusted too tight ? Did you pull the distributor and prime the engine oil pump to make sure everything was flowing good ? I test run ALL my engines on a test stand and do the cam break in myself , then do all the final adjustments so the customers engine is ready to go when they pick it up . But then that's just me . Retro Jim
Any merit to Daves statement above. Is there instructions that say use just the outer springs? Engine was broke in the proper r.p.m. for 15-20 min. with the comp cams additive.
I had the exact same problem, with the same thumper set up, I called and complained to comp about it, and they set me a new set of lifters and cam, but had to pull mains and rods caps to rinse out foreign material from destroyed lifters. I took some lifters to work and tested the surface hardness and they were significantly softer than the cam lobes were. I told a comp rep and he said it was a known problem. You might also want to check oil pump to make sure nothing went through it too. The new set of lifters they sent were completly different design than the first.
Yes there are instructions that state just that. Who the hell would want to do that if it wasn't stated as such. They don't spell out the bullshit involved. You really to set them up as run, check shim machine if needed - Take apart and use single or soft springs Torque heads , adjust valves Break in cam Change back to double springs with heads on Readjust valves
Can you say Roller Cam, any hotter than stock I now put together has a Hyd Roller in it. Once a cam goes flat that metal gets everywhere just take a look at the piston skirts, see any really small metal embedded in the skirt? Rollers are a lot more expensive up front but less in the long run. Good luck with your project sorry to hear of your troubles!
Theres is so much more than additive and proper break in to make thast cam live. If you want give me a call or pm and maybe we can figure out what went wrong. Number is below in sig
Just one more thing you might want to check . Dose the block have oil restrictors in it . This could cause lack of oil to the lifters and push rods.
had two motors with beehive springs after 25 laps springs lost 20psi and some of the hardened locks came out in 4 pieces. but have had success with there parts in the pass it's getting harder to get quality parts even from companies that everyone swears by.
just my 2 cents..... I am a asshole..... and not a big fan of comp cams.... ate 2 .......maybe just my luck
Update: comp cams gave me credit for cam & lifters at jobber price, not retail what I paid at Speedway,towards any future purchase,motor is up and running again with a "HOWARDS" roller,22 in. of vacuum so I can switch to my rochester fuelie unit in due time! Yes we tore it completely back down to wash out &clean,nother set of cam,rod.& main bearings,oilpump also.
What oil was used?? maybe a case of zinc not being present...seen a few cams that were already broke in go flat just changing to a non-ZDDP oil....But most break in oil has higher ZDDP content than Gibbs,Penn,or VR1 oils do anyway!
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