The first style of interlocking mount. this is the one that needs to sit on a flat surface, instead of a tube, to work properly
do you really have to use the right lenght bolts? lol i use solid also i was just telling what i saw happen once with their use. as far as c.e. mounts ,i forgot about theirs. they also are a good mount.
Yea, but the question is "Does Scumdog want to completely re-engineer his engine mounting system or bolt in some mounts that will work?".
In addition to providing isolation from noise and vibration, the mounts accommodate flexing between the chassis and engine. There are designs where the engine, or engine & trans, are structural parts of the vehicle, but that's not the case on most cars. Solid mounts on a street car will eventually cause something(chassis/mount/engine block/trans case/or?) to break. Exactly when that will happen depends on how the particular car, how it is driven, and how much it is driven.
Broke a rubber mount on mine once....scared the crap out of me. Had heard stories of mounts breaking, causing excess tension on throttle cable, causing throttle to hang open, causing death..... <----fan of rock solid motor mounts.
My bad!!! That bolt together mount on the bottom looks half decent... This is the mount that I must have been thinking of. It is the gm version that was used on '69 -'72 small blocks when the original was recalled. IMO it's pretty damn ugly, but beauty is in the eye of the beholder??? Or how about this one also from gm about 1970 or so??? It encased the original mount entirely. I guess that you could paint it the same color as the motor but it would still look like a big wart.. I think if you check here, you may find that this is an aftermarket mount manufactured by Lakewood and currently available at Summit Racing??? It also looks pretty good??? Lakewood Muscle Motor Mounts
Question for all you guys. I have the old style biscuit mount on my hurst set up. Is there any tricks for this set up the would help it from moving to much?
Okay, this morning I switched the left mount to a solid steel mount. I'm getting vibration, but it's very minimal. In fact, if someone was riding in my car, they wouldn't even notice it. Now, when I launch, the engine stays put and I can fell the difference in take off. This is what I had. The one on the right is a factory replacement for a ''69 Chevy small block. The right is a generic steel solid mount. My friend just made one using this design. See the rubber section with the two mounting tabs pointing up in the first pic? This actually tore off the steel plate below it. It's hard to see, but this is actually made of two pieces. I found a few mounts using urethane, as mentioned before, but my setup seems to work. However, if it developes problems later, I'll go urethane on both mounts. I don't anticipate problems, because I don't "get on it" that much.
I have put probably hundreds of thousands of miles on various cars over the years with solid motor mounts and a rubber trans mount, never broken anything.
Same thing happen to me and my bucket Fred only the fan hit the hose clamp. I put solid mounts on at the end of last year and just kept driving, no problems.
Energy Suspension urethane mounts are the answer! In addition to the urethane being much tougher than rubber, the metal components of the mount are interlocked inside the the urethane, to prevent mount separation in the event of a urethane failure! (Not Likely!)
I use MagMount Heavy Duty Engine Mounts on my 440 Mopar engines on the driver side. Healthy motors can tear open a new motor mount quick (as you know ) They have a bolt that stops the engine from lifting too far on the driver side. I dunno who makes em for Chevys, but you need em... http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/maheduenmo.html
I did exactly what 345 Desoto said when I redid the motor mounts on my 27. I drilled through the steel parts and rubber center of the motor mounts and ran two grade 8 bolts and nuts through them. I used nylock nuts and only tightened it up slightly so there was still some cushioning in the mount. I learned that trick on the Jeep pickup I had with a 5.0 Ford engine in it because I was constantly breaking the drivers side mount. After doing the drilling and bolting I never broke another. Don
Good to know the laws of physics apparently don't apply to you. Are people who HAVE experienced breakages with solid mounds just less worthy than you?
Play nice. I'm keeping the left solid mount. It's working GREAT. Ask the "El Camino" guy up my street. He's victim number one of my new found HP. When I'm out messing with my T, he'll slow down and check what I'm doing. All the while reving his shit box Camino. More so, when my cars down. So, yesterday, I roll up on him and ask him to follow me to a side street not far from us. No contest. I have to peddle it about 3-4 feet, so she won't just spin the tires, after that.... game over. He says he could beat me if he had another 1/4 mile, but if beggars had horses, they'd ride.
Got a couple of years on my solids..no problems..a wee bit of vibration..feels like a hot rod & I'm lovin' it.
This is what you need, polyurethane mounts from Prothane. I have a full set I'll sell for $90. Includes trans mount for TH350 or TH400 You won't break these, they also have the internal lock plate so they don't come apart.
Well aside from the "your all gonna DIE" BS from someone who shall remain nameless that has CLEARLY never run solid motor mounts in a street car, I love 'em. No more broken mounts, no binding clutch linkage, and personally I LIKE the vibes, as fleetside has said, it feels like a hot rod. I like the tense edgy feeling the extra vibes add, especially when its combined with a stout rear gear and solid lifters. Is it for everybody? No, hell, its not even for every car. Just dont run a solid trans mount.
I run solid mounts on the engine and transmission on my little truck and drive it everywhere. Have not had any problems yet.
There have been no "your all gonna DIE" posts, only some you obviously don't agree with. Your personal experience at getting away with something doesn't mean that's going to be the same for everyone else. That's just defective thinking when fact and experience show otherwise. Posting your experience is helpful to others. You can chose to dismiss the cracked frames, failed brackets, broken mount brackets, damaged cylinder blocks, and ruined transmission cases that solid mounts have caused, but suggesting those things never happen is not helpful unbiased information.
i had a customers bring me his car that kept breaking motor mounts, turned out the mounts were not in line so they had pressure on them just getting the bolts in. not saying that's wrong with yours but i thought i would throw that out there.
I've run both solid mounts on several daily driven, pretty serious street hp (1000 plus) and not once had anything crack, break, nor was the vibration any/much more than running rubber mounts.
On that note, we should all quit building and driving cars, cause at some point, they ALL have had things break. Guess we should all start walking, cause no one ever has anything happen,,,,,,, wait, that wont work either,,,,, damn.
You sound like the guy who always took his ball home when the game didn't go his way. Maybe just you should not build any more cars and stay home. Yes, pretty much everything will break if used long enough. What you want to avoid is premature failure or unwanted damage. Splitting the wishbones on an old Ford causes flex and binding and is technically incorrect. That's why the links were originally configured as they were. On the other hand, axles don't break with that set-up, so it's not a problem in actual practice. On the other hand, on anything other than a drag car, ladder bars cause binding, have an excessively low rear roll center, and are prone to braaking the bars, housing, etc. That's just reality. If you want to run ladder bars on the street.... fine. Just don't say they are something they are not. The same with solid mounts. The dumbass "just run er" comments that get posted here tend to come from people who either don't fully understand what they are talking about, or believe that doing 100 parachute jumps proves it isn't dangerous. The OP asked for technical info on solid mounts. A this point I think we have given him overview of the pros and cons. With or without solid mounts, happy motoring.
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