Priming inside where paint won't go.

In building a pickup bed, there are some areas which will not get painted by the finish coating.

Inside the stake pockets and other areas which will not be accessible to paint after welding them together.

These areas, may however be subject to water infiltration afterwards.

Wondering what is the usual practice to handle this issue ?

 

A long brush? I've also kind of wondered this

 

I have yet to do it but what about KBS coating or POR-15? I used KBS underneath my body, why not there too?

 

pour in some zero-rust out of the can and let it flow to catch all the areas, works great.

 

Doesn't Eastwood sell a wand to spray a protectorant coating inside frames when you box the frame? That might be worth looking into?

 

If you are talking about just small areas, you can use a weld through primer

 

Will the weld through primer protect from water and prevent rust later ?

 

How about using satin coat steel ? I have been thinking this will work well.

http://www.finishing.com/421/36.shtml

 

This would be my choice

 

Yes, I believe it will, I have had good luck with it & have shined a flashlight up into areas like you are speaking long after welding & it looked fine

 

Eastwood

 

That's the idea behind it but if you have access it probably wouldn't hurt to pour/spray or brush something else in after words just to give it added protection. Stake pockets won't hold water so they shouldn't be that bad as far as the protection required.

 

Some rustoleum areosol primer sprayed thru a cardboard tube from a roll of paper towels helps get the primer / paint into close areas like that..

 

Those small pump up garden sprayers with a wand work really well at getting into hard to reach areas where finish isn't a concern.

 

You can also put a straw nozzle on most spray paint and paint into very small areas that way.
If it's a part you can roll around, the pouring in epoxy primer or paint might give the best protection.

 

Once the paint has fully dried, LPS3 is pretty effective at creeping into tight spots.

There's a test report somewhere on line where some a plexiglass panels were assembled with a tight and maybe even tapering gap and a variety of products were tested to see how well they would creep into the faying surface. LPS3 scored very well.

http://www.tc.faa.gov/logistics/grants/pdf/1996/96-g-001.pdf

 

The wand would be my choice.I don`t recommend primer,as it draws moisture and rust forms under it." A voice of experience"

 

the best way i have found is weld through primer, before welding, [duh] then epoxy prime all the parts with your paint gun set to "garden hose" for all the ins and outs. a regular air nozzle with a 3/16 piece of steel line attached will blow the primer while still wet into the nooks and crannies. then put your filler primer on, and then with you gun set back to "garden hose" spray all the ins and outs, nooks and crannies with the paint you are using and repeat with the air hose. any drips will be sanded off when you sand the primer and the paint overspray will act like shadow coat.

 

I use a degreaser gun with the long nozzle and a rubber hose 5/16 pushed on the end and douse all the hidden areas with fisholene oil, works great, smelly and messy but great. I feel the stinky stuff works better than the deodorized stuff.

 

x3 on the Zero Rust. Good stuff. Pour some in and roll it around or the sprayer with a wand sounds like a good idea too.