Looks awesome bub. Your presentation here should help a lot of folks with their wheels too. Great job.
Looks great, and thanks for the info. I am getting ready to do mine in the next few weeks.... This was perfect timing seeing how its done...
I use marine Tex two part epoxy. Outside of that same procedure. I do have one tip some steering wheel have small rings that are bent around the wheel cross section they are a bear to remove and you could scratch the wheel re-installing them. What I do apply thin layer of grease with a tooth pick around the ring (bezel) then wipe off after the paint drys. My .02
I did this 56 Chev wheel last year as part of a complete show resto. JB Weld for me too. Being plastic, I use SEM colorcoat.
just for a bit of added info,i have used that appliance epoxy paint that you spoke of,can get it an most hardware stores, it worked VERY well,it was durable for a rattle can paint and looked good.colors are limited but,white or black will at least get ya driving and looking decent.
I can vouch for this. Haha. I used JB weld on mine as well. I its Not 100% done yet. Have to some finish work still but its 100 times better than what it was.
geat thread, I was thinking about a heat plastic gun for cacks however, PC-7 i had not though of...very cool thanks
HRP, I just bought a wheel like yours at a swap meet for 30 bucks with 2 horn rings. I was wondering what year it was.... I don't have any laps on my wheel repair yet, but I used a 2 part 100% solids epoxy mixed with cabosil. The epoxy is a little runny by itself, but you add the cabosil to your preferred thickness. I could have done a lot more sanding and layers to make my wheel look a little better, but I was going for that driver quality look. JW
JB Weld here too. I tried the one that comes in a tube that you cut a chunk off, knead into one color - I thought it was lousy. I DON'T use the JB Quik Weld. I use the old fashioned slower one. BEFORE:
I will be doing mine as well, may pick up another 'wheel so I can still move the car around while I work on it. And slap the new one on in the end.
JB weld has held up fine for me as well, tried the JB KWIK for faster drying but like the original better. Although slower drying original formulated JB seems to feather nicer when sanding. Prep well for adhesion and use masking tape around larger cracks and fill with JB makes it less messy to fill cracks. I have done several this way with varied finishes. Fingers make the best squeegee for applying in most cases as mentioned. Also looking at the OP pics the coffee is a must as well in list of supplies needed to do the job.
Thanks to all for the great reply’s !! Was going to buy repo 1939 - they are big time on back order - repaired original will be better anyway ! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app