35-36 Ford rear wishbones...strengthened, drilled and polished!

Keep it up!

 

I ground down all the plug welds and the ugly factory seam, as well as all the factory orange peel. I went over some areas with a flat file, this let me know where more material needed removing and to just straighten things up. After i ground off the factoy seam i grabbed some grinding dust off the floor and sprinkled it the legnth of the weld and bounced it on the bench a couple times, poor mans magna flux I draw a line down the tube right where the dust stayed with a sharpie. I then cut down the line with a cut off wheel, i make a second pass with the wheel cocked abit to open up the cut more. The factory weld is full of, well who knows what, but i burn all the bad out and weave side to side to fill in all the porosity. I had to sharpen the tungsten a dozen or more times as stuff pops up out of the weld ....man it's ugly

 

This is the ultimate answer to the "Failed '36 Wishbone" thread...

Great work Harv, I have always done them the easy way by adding an upper link. Your way is better.

 

Not for long.

 

Thinking of this for some time, and here´s the answer.Making it much easier for me.Thanks Harv. Nice job.

 

Welded, ground, filed, repeat several times and all is deemed good. The last pic in the above post is shown below, weld ground smooth. Welding up the factory seam is a pain for sure, no matter how many times i go over it there will still be pin holes, albeit very small ones. Tomorrow the final polish will be done, 7" scotch brite pad at the ready. These pads lose about 50% of their affectiveness in the first minute, so i plan my strategy before hand, hitting the areas that need the most smoothing first and then move on.

 

Nice work !

 

Thats some super sexy ass work! Nothing like secret squirrel updating a pair of 36 bones.

 

Those are beautiful. You've got the hole sizes/spacing dead on too!
Love that look, but sadly its too race-car looking for my build.

Bear

 

You outdid yourself on these Badboys brother! Your metal fab skills are surgical and as usual your polishing is bar none!

KILLER!!!!

 

Great tech Man! I always worry about running these 'bones "as is", but with this method I have no reservations. I can't wait to make a set for my new roadster.

 

Wow,well done , lots of time in those that the pics don't show

 

Wow, those look great.

 

These turned out excellent.

 

They're done, well atleast my part....thanks for the kind words guys

These were done for a fellow HAMBer, and per his request they are 60" from axle to tie rod center, 2 3/4" shorter than stock. There are a few threads on here showing these bones mounted in front with a front wishbone yoke. Both ways work, it's just a matter of preferance and/or frame style. Old parts saved from certain death to live on under a cool traditional hot rod...how cool is that...old parts RULE!

 

Mmmmm. Red Velvet.

Great job Harv. Best I've seen...

 

So nice. So nice it's a shame they're going underneath a car!

 

Great work!

 

Very nice work, some great planning in that work

 

Wow those are a work of art and the attention to detail is amazing i really think these should be submitted to one of the rod magazines as a feathered article super nice work harv!!

 

I agree killer craftmanship and a great tech thread!! It's so good I'm in the middle of copying it!!

 

now i want some!

 

This picture should be rated "R".

Pure sexy!

 

I have a question for you,as I mentioned I'm attempting a set right now.I like the idea of turing down the bar stock to fit into the threaded bungs to center everything.If I do that on the set of bungs I bought from speedway the tierod end will hit the bar stock limiting how much the tierod goes in goes into the bung.Your threaded ends look longer than the ones I bought where did you buy those??
Thanks

 

Firepower flyer, i was using Speedway bungs and they are good, but i got the last pair from Kenny's Rod & Custom. Kenny's are really nice, the taper was less leaving a bigger shoulder where the jam nut meets the bung.

For your question, the rod end on mine hit too, it left about 2 threads out past the jam nut. This is fine, but if you are having interferance, just shorten the step down where the strenght rod goes into the bung. You could also run a jam nut onto the rod end and cut off a 1/4" of the thread shank. The jam nut is your thread chase.

 

Ya I was thinking of shortning the tierod,I'm sure I'll never need all the adjustabilty.So the bung ends are from Kennys are the ones you used?Are they longer than the speedways?They look longer, I don't mind cutting them shorter but I would need to take off quite a bit,how much did you end up trimming on yours.Sorry for all the questions I just want to do it right once.

 

Man Harv, those things are beautiful, you have got me reconsidering my rear now!!

 

As always your work looks great.

 

Very tasteful Harv, great work, Wayne

 

Great work! Those things must weigh a ton...