The LH top Quarter panel of the '32 Brookville roadster body looks like this, tons of stretch marks from stamping. I was able to file and sand them out to get it perfectly smooth but man! That was a ton of work!
Yep mine looked the same. you want bad stretch waves? Try painting a rootlieb 32 hood top gloss black..ugh.
I'm painting this '32 black, that's why I HAD to sand out all those imperfections. Oddly, the RH side looked almost perfect, just minor filing & sand was needed.
You should've started with a dented rusty one, so you wouldn't have to deal to the stretch marks. Scotty.
I'll trade you problems, I dont HAVE a body yet to bitch about! If I had a glass one, then we could trade and all your stretch problems would be gone.
That's (or was) a common problem in any automotive stamping plant when "deep drawing" sheet metal. The quality of the steel and the condition of the die has to be spot on. In the high volume shops, the first step toward correction was to to try steel from a different vendor (At Chevrolet, we had steel from as many as 5 different mills for the same panel-all of it the highest quality we could buy but there were still variations from mill to mill and-worse, mill run to to mill run). If that didn't work, the die was turned over to a die spotter who would often work for days on the blankholder. Often, he'd fix the problem only to have it recurr when steel from another vendor was fed into the die. The high volume shop at least had the liberty of wasting several blanks during the corrective procedure and once back in production could produce at 300 per hour. Brookville is a completely different world: low volume, probably single sourced on steel, marginal die design, using the same press for most panels.
I would bet the original Ford stampings were just as bad. I've seen old pictures of workers fixing imperfections before they went to paint and there were lots of them.
I was wondering that when I was working on it, if the original bodies had those problems in the quarters. This body actually had stretch marks all over it and low spots and high spots and tons of scratches to be sanded out. ironically, people say all the time, "Brookville bodies, just prime and paint". In reality, it's more like sand for 30 hours, then prime.
Great, now instead of thin stretch mark ripples you have filed & sanded them into even thinner spots. Shirinking disk
thank You! Alot of the body work on my 40 is replacing thin metal from not enough metal finishing and too much filing/grinding.
I built a Brookville '32 roadster, low 200s body number, and to get it ready for black spent over 100 hours with a body man chiseling the reveal lines, which were soft, and straightening the flat panels. It was worth the effort and money spent. Considering the low production numbers produced by Brookville their products are great. But no one should think they can just prime and paint, like any project they need attention.
Absolutely! And I recomend lots of them too! Though I have to say, the last couple of rootlieb '32 hoods I've done were VERY nice.
I have used Rootlieb hoods on many Model A`s and found them very high quality and most cases fit better than most original hoods do.
man that aint no problem.i would rather shrink all that crap than try to rebuild a old henry.i looked at a old body the other day.not much left to work let alone build.body work and engine building , thats what it takes to do what we do.so just look at it like thats your dues for gettin this thing on the road.
Ok let's see..... There's somewhat close to 0.040 metal thickness there. The if the ripples were a full metal thickness off you would have sanded holes, right ? If you filled them at a full metal thickness 0.040 would be too thick of filler for you ? ? And if the ripples were 0.02 deep, 0.02 is too much filler but metal thickness of 0.02 is ok ? I really don't get it.
My '31 roadster required several hundred hours of bumping/color/wet sanding to turn it into a sheet of glass. Problems with spot welds and general body dings/imperfections, body panels not lining up as in the reveal at the doors and cowl did not match size and wasn't in alignment. Rear tail pan was so poorly tig welded that it was cracked and starting to separate. '32 grille shell and Vintique insert would not fit without rubbing of the paint around the inside of the shell. It was delicate work opening up the inner radius of the shell so that the insert looked good as well as didn't rub/grind. All in all, much nicer than working on rusted/banged/missing parts. Have and Will do it again. .
On Boyds Hot Rod show I watched them mud the whole body on a brand new Brookville Roadster to get it straight!!!!
yea but thats not body work.to me thats just a lazy mans way out.but i have done it to a few bike tanks.aint now way of getting inside to work the metal.
Hot Rods take hard work to make look even better than they are when you get them. This hard work pays off the 1st time you get behind the wheel and get the 1st chip in the paint or bugs in the radiator. If someone wants perfection which these and Briggs bodies from the get go never were,then some hard work is needed. Have you ever seen a Bugatti,Ferrari or Alpha in the raw? That's work, It takes weeks to make them look straight. I think I'll take the stretch lines in the 1/4's, Then at least then I'd know that I'm looking at nothing but metal and 0 filler. Your work looks great and I'm sure that it's gonna make a very kool Hot Rod.
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