I've installed a Duraspark II ignition system on my '60 starliner's 390. I wired it according to the diagrams that are all over the web and according to chiltons and motors manuals which all seem to match. I am using a new 1978 ford F-250 distributor with single vac advance port and a blue grommet module for a 1976 mustang, which should be Duraspark II, and an Accel 8140C coil with the factory resistor wire instead of a ballast resistor. my problem is that the module receives no power in start position. In the diagram it shows +12v in run connected to the RED wire. The WHITE wire from what I read is a 8-10 degree retard function that is optional, but is to be connected to the start position. If I wire it like the diagram shows I get 0v in start, +12v in run. If I add a second wire from the solenoid "S" terminal to the same red wire I get +12v in start and run, but it also feeds +12v back through and keeps the starter on in run position. What am I missing. How is the module supposed to get power in the Start position?
factory ign switch for the '60 starliner. I have the +12v in RUN coming from the central pole on the ign switch to the RED wire of the duraspark module, which has nothing in START position. Yes my solenoid is has the I and S poles.
As opposed to hooking it to the "S" terminal? Seems like that would work, but I'm still perplexed as how all those DSII diagrams out there are supposed to get 12v at Start to the red wire.
that diagram is different, and even more confusing. If I cut the brown wire, How does the module get +12v in RUN, looks like all it would get is the 6~7V from he resistance wire. Plus from what I read, the white wire is for timing retard some people even say that hooking it up is optional, is that not true?
Yeah, that's confusing. My first suggestion is to connect the I terminal to the coil + terminal, and see if it works. As for how the relay works: if you apply voltage to the S terminal, it closes the relay, which sends power to the I terminal and to the big fat wire that goes to the starter. When you stop applying power to the S terminal, the power stops going to the I terminal, and stops going to the big fat starter wire. My guess is that your ignition switch works such that it only provides power to the ignition circuit twhen the switch is in the RUN position, and that's causing the problem. But you'd have to do some testing with a voltmeter or test light to see if that's the case.
The Ford system is designed to replace the points - think of it that way....... If you turn your key switch to "ON" - the (Red) wire to the controller must have constant 12v power. Find this with a meter or test lamp. It should also be providing power to the ballast resistor (the high side). So the coil is getting fed (+) from one side - and it will rely on the controller wire (Green) to ground the negative side (-) to turn on the coil. The only difference in this than the old points set up is the points provided the "Green" lead to ground. When you turn the key to "START" both of the above functions should stay "ON" during starting same as with the points. If the Red wire from the controller was connected to the high side (12v) of the ballast resistor - everything would be working the same as before. The trigger leads from the distributor (Orange and Violet) tell the controller when to open or close the transistor that then grounds the coil through the (Green) wire. The (Black) - wire must carry that ground back to the distributor - and from there to the block. These systems work better if you put a jumper ground wire out of the distributor to the engine block. The (White) wire connects to the Starter solenoid - connected to one of the small posts so it is only hot when the starter is actuated. When the starter shuts off - the (White) wire should go dead. It actuates a circuit in the controller that retards the spark 6° - only when the solenoid is cranking the engine. If it gets a constant 12v when the key is "ON" - or is left out - everything will work except the starting retard. Many vehicles (in fact most) have been built that have a built-in "jumper" wire between the starter solenoid and the coil (+) post - bypassing the ballast resistor so that full voltage goes to the coil when starting. It would have been in your old wiring - still will perform the same function.
greenbird said it all. i try to replace points with DSII on any old Ford i can. many diss the DSII but for daily drivers it's plenty reliable. if you're really worried, do like i did on my V8 Mustang II and put a second module on the fender just in case the first one melts down (somewhat common occurence) and just pop the wires over.
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