Paint and bodywork...how much is too much

Been following the 8 thousand dollar paint job thread and from what I see posted on that thread, most people seem to be in agreement that a decent to top notch paint job could cost 8000 all the way up 5 digits.
So it got me to wondering, how much the average hamber had in his paint and body work.
So since I had never done a poll on here, I thought I would try it LOL.

 

The materials alone cost me 2 grand ,Total cost around 4000 and i did all the wet sanding

 

i'm doing SEM hot rod satin black, once i'm doing with prep materials and color I should fall under the $550 mark

 

I don't like it but the reality is that if you have someone do the job correctly it's gonna cost over well over 3000. I've always done my own painting and body work and as richbud says above even the materials are expensive today. There's no getting around it.

 

90% of a great paint job is the prep, it's a whole lotta work but doesn't cost that much. I do my own paint w/ Southern Poly's excellent primers & clears and House of Kolors paints, total cost runs $1200 to $1500. If however, you are stuck on PPG, for example, the materials cost can easily double. I know this cuz I've been there and done that.

 

I'm sure it can still be under $1000 by the time it is back on the road (as long as i pay myself no more that 5 cents an hour)

 

I painted my '46 truck two-tone PPG Metallic Rosewood and Cream basecoat / clearcoat myself. All the materials from tape to primer/ thinner/ paints cost me $1800.

 

Kind of old news really.

But I really like the idea of your poll. Too bad there weren't some more categories to pick from because you really only captured the lowest end.

The reality is that you can do it several ways and be successful depending on your skill, talent, pocketbook, common sense and taste, as well as the skill, talent and ethics of any selected body/paint person.

Pick one and run with it. They all work depending on the combo of inputs.

1. Cheap Price, Terrible Results.
2. Cheap Price, Semi Successful Results.
3. Cheap Price, Beautiful Results.
4. Cheap Price, No Matter the Outcome, I'm Not Afraid to Drive it!

4. Expensive Price, Still Terrible Results.
5. Expensive Price, Semi Successful Results.
6. Expensive Price, Beautiful Results.
7. Expensive Price, I Am Afraid to Drive it Now!

 

The paint job on my '32 was $8K and that was his cheap paint job. Now, the same job is $12K. So I have to go with #7. After 6 years, people still recognize it as a "Hot Rods and Hobbies" paint job.

 

What a lot of guys don't figure is sq footage.
Example --
32 hiboy roadster.
Most don't think about how much sq footage their is in a chassis,engine block, trans, rear end etc.
You'll chew up just as much for those items as you will squitrin the
body doors, decklid, hood (both sides) and grille shell.
I usually figure 2500 - 3000 on 1 depending on color
If RED or Burgandy add 500.
Could shoot a shoe box for a lot less, as not as many sq foot to cover.
But what do I know, only been paintin for 40 + years.

 

So, are we just talking materials alone? considering labor time?...how about welding panels?
or is it; slam in the high spots with a ball peen hammer, flinging bondo, lay it on thick fill primer, and paint estimate?

 

When garage bombers spit out a low number like $1200, or even $1800, it makes me wonder if they are including ALL the materials and consumables.

Like sandpaper, masking materials, wash thinner, degreaser. Stickums for my 6" DA are like $75 a roll. Paper's not too bad but damn green 3M tape is about ten bucks a pop. Plastic to cover the windows, extra lights so you can actually halfway see what the fuck you're doing, you get the picture.

All-in I probably spent close to $3800 to paint my O/T car, but that includes everything, including a new Devillbiss gun.

I added up the invoices not too long ago because there was a heated discussion on another forum (TCL) about how painters are in business strictly to rip people off.

 

Autobody some what like Mechanical is Not cheap.. unless you try to learn how to do the tasks.. Businesses are there to make money.. pay there employees.. try to learn the tasks .. for some its easy , for some its not..

 

At least we are all talking about paint and not how to preserve rust

 

55....around $1000-1500 and two months of my labor, spread over 15 years. That includes paying someone to spray the paint over all my so-so bodywork.

 

When I worked at Classic Restoration in Denver they charged a customer $143000 to paint his car black, also included fitting all glass,trim fitting and a vinyl roof on a 69 Pontiac firebird.They didn't give him that figure up front , just told him to keep putting money down when the account ran low.

 

Go to supply house and buy everything needed and then people will see why it cost what it does..

DA paper
80 grit. $75.00
180 grit. $70.00

Straight paper
80. $55.00
180. $55.00
320. $55.00
400. $55.00

Tape
1.5" $6.00 per roll

Primer
$150-$200 per gal

Sealer
$150.00

Paint PPG
$250 and up per gal

PPG clear with hardner
$370.00

Reducer
$50.00 gal

Thinner
$40.00 five gal...

Wet sand paper
1200 grit. $45.00
1500grit. $45.00
2500 grit. $45.00

3000 tri zac pads $7.00 each (2-3) used

Buffing compounds
3M
Step one $45.00 bottle
Step two. $45.00 bottle
Step three $45.00 bottle

Buff pads
Step one $30.00
Step two $25.00
Step three $25.00

Towels
$20.00

Then there's the
$500.00 paint gun
$3000.00 compressor
$1500.00 dryer
$10,000.00 paint room
And what ever skill is worth...

Adds up fast

 

I have been through this discussion on here countless times before....and I always get harassed for telling the truth. As a shop owner, I am in the thick of this....I do this EVERY DAY..this is not a hobby for me..I am in this to make money...Read (PROFIT!) I can't count how many calls/emails I get daily that want estimates on building/painting their car and when I tell them what I think it costs, I'm the asshole.

BULLFROG is right on the money with the supplies costs. I spend thousands each week on supplies, primer and paint...and the costs keep going up. The only thing he fell short on is the spray booth....(hint: I got $40k+ in mine including wiring and site prep and it dosen't have heat!)

The poll here is skewed...Are we including labor time to paint the car or are we talking just materials and liquid coatings? Are we talking just painting the exterior, or jambs too? Who is removing and installing the trim, glass and rubber? I could go on and on..Are theese valid questions or am I going too far?

 

For one car????

 

You guys are paying too much for your DA paper and sand papers.. $15 a roll for Mira Gold at most flea markets. Work as good as 3m. $15-$22 a box for airboard paper. That's the retail. Never looked for it wholesale. That's at Carlisle and other northeast car shows.

 

clean cut creations said it well.
i would like to add, are we sandblasting? frame off? every part? inside and out? engine bay, dash board? chassis components? changing color? solid color metal flake, candy or pearl? who's assembling? who's storing all these parts? how are we protecting them for shipment or storage? and what is the hardware? is that to be painted? are they rusty or are we fighting with repo crap, stainless?

 

I voted $1000 to $2000, but that is because I am doing all the prep and I have a friend who is a well-known painter willing to shoot it for free. Otherwise this paint job would cost me upwards of $6000 or more. It's the reality of the hobby. In the meantime I'm just going to suede the thing and drive it...

 

Are we talking sand the original paint then base and clear and WYSIWYG, or strip to bare metal, fix the dents, remove any rust then primer, sealer, base, clear, color sand to 3000, three stage buffing, waxing etc. Part 2 STARTS at 20K and goes up. Throw in some dismantling and re-assembly and you can easily have 2-300 hours invested. Now throw in a modest shop rate of $80 an hour. You do the math.

 

Mirka Gold 5" No-Hole Self-Adhesive Discs P80D Grit, Roll of 100.

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</TD></TR><TR class=DarkCell><TD width="15%" align=left>Product </TD><TD width="10%" align=left>SKU </TD><TD width="10%" align=left>Price </TD><TD width="20%" align=left>Order </TD></TR><TR class=LightCell><TD vAlign=center align=left>1161 - Grade 320 Discs - 23-342-320 </TD><TD vAlign=center align=left>1161 </TD><TD vAlign=center align=left>Price: $38.99 </TD><TD vAlign=center align=middle>
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</TD></TR><TR class=DarkCell><TD width="15%" align=left>Product </TD><TD width="10%" align=left>SKU </TD><TD width="10%" align=left>Price </TD><TD width="20%" align=left>Order </TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=center align=left>1162 - Grade 400 Discs - 23-342-400






</TD><TD vAlign=center align=left>1162


</TD><TD vAlign=center align=left>Price: $38.99




</TD><TD vAlign=center align=middle>
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</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Mirka is certianly cheaper than 3M but it aint $15/roll....Maybe I got to start buyin mirka products at the swapmeet.....

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For one car you ask? Well yes, everything listed you will need. Will there be some left? Sure, but it is still cheaper this way than trying to buy small amounts...

 

I painted my LX coupe mustang back last fall and I spent around 1500-1800 in materials and I used omni color with PPG 2002 clear. I don't it at night and weekends and it took 3.5 weeks of busting my ass to get it done. It was a color change with few small dings. For someone else it would have been $5-$6k

 

Well i just priced a 49 Ford F1 truck to a man. Paint and bodywork change from metal bed to wood bed floor ( not real easy to do ). The cost was 7500 to do it parts and labor. He said oh no that can't be right when I told him the parts and materials was right around 3200 for what he wanted he told me I was to high and asked me to do it cheaper. I said no. He then said he would have me do it in stages. I told him I would not do it at all. I just don't get guys like this. Oh and I went to his house in up to Tn about 1 and 1/2 hours away to look at it.

 

I,ve done a lot of paint & body and resto,s but my main complaint is with customer ignorance of the fact that the kind or quality of job is directly related to the cost. I,ve told some I can do it for piss-all and expect to see rust again within 6 mos. or do a job you will be very proud to show off. They seem to think it,s like mechanic,s where it takes a certain amount of time to remove and replace a part and onlythe shop rate vary,s

 

the labor hours add up crazy. a 32-40 ford nice grill for instance once blasted can be 40 hours, sanding each bar 2-3 times, any straightening...

i asked a friend of mine that owns a local bod shop this winter (no snow or ice they were slow) to take a real nice 35 ford pickup grill i had laying around in and make it nice. i said ill media blast it, put a guy on it and make it nice, ill pay 400.00 he said F.U! if i carry that in monday morn and put a guy on it he'd quit and so would the next one!!! hahahahaha i laughed. I KNOW how many hours EVERYTHING takes!!