IAN's chevy..Paint problems,,,Whats going on in these pics?

Ok I've painted and built cars for 30 years now , and I shouldn't have to even ask for an opinion on this, but I want to be fair, and get some others ideas of what is the problem here. so painters please post your opinions and we will see what the final verdict is....

 

looks to me like filler that hadn't cured completely

 

Looks like it cracked?

 

Kind of looks like too much material (too many mills). If it gets too thick, it cracks eventually.
Is that your Caddy? So sorry, I love your car.

 

cracked filer x2

 

Looks like cracked filler, if you're planning on repainting it try sanding on it or picking at it n let us know!

 

Hey,

I don't see a paint problem, I see piss poor metal work, with excessive thicknesses of filler and, perhaps some marginal welding & fit ups.

" Meanwhyle, back aboard The Tainted Pork "

 

Thats filler expanding due to being too thick and probably mutiple layers. Add the sun's heat and pow, zap, dink and zowee. At least those are the noises id make while kicking my own ass for poor prep.

 

I will have to defer to the pros on here (I'm no painter), but it looks to me like too much product - whether it's filler or paint or both.. Is it a customer looking to have a problem solved?

-Dave

 

Looks like cracked filler.

 

Only way to know for sure is slip a razor blade in the crack and pop up a piece.......looks like filler failure though... bummer for everybody involved

 

Filler that is not mixed properly.

 

It's too much of everything with too much finish over that. The dark color suckin up heat has expanded and contracted all the layers to extremes. It just looks really thick like a temporary show car for the OEMs.

 

i dont belive that is a paint problem..although you didnt mention how long its been painted,with what you painted etc... looks like a abunch of bondo just now craking....

 

Yep, something too thick. Only way to tell was mentioned earlier...pop er loose.

 

Looks to me like under catalyzed filler. If the correct amount of hardener is not used the filler will not fully cure and continue to move with fluctuations in temp. Was it applied when it was hot out so you cut back on the amount of hardener?

 

And the last pic.

 

it has been painted about 2 years, sikkens color and clear, filler was rage . primer was polyprimer, then sealer then color then clear.

 

I'll chime in with the same answers. Seems like way too much filler in those spots. Perhaps wasn't metal finished enough and body guy decided to use good ol quarter in a can and mud fu$&ed those areas. Then way too much material on top of that. Hard to tell in pictures but the paint layer seems pretty thick. If thats the case it could be a paint failure. Oem paints like sikkens, spies, DuPont etc are not intended for excessive mil thickness like Kustom paint such as house of kolor. Either way it sucks that it happened. If you decide to repair start sanding away until you find the good layer and that's where the failure began. For instance if you get to the filler and it's solid no crack then the poly primer failed. Possibly from over applying. If it only goes to the primer level. Then sealer base and clear were applying to thick.

 

OH , and just to make it a little better there is 2 coats of color then a light coat to even metallics then 4 coats of clear and then it was cut and buffed. started with 1200, 1500 then 3000 and buffed. the poly primer was 3 coats, let dry for a couple days block the hell out of it, it was getting really thin then spot primed a few break thru areas, blocked again then sealed and color coated. I have been painting awhile and yes I know what I'm doing, its not over applied, too thick, and it had more then enough dry times. and 4 coats of clear then heavy cut and rub should leave you with a little more then 2 coats which is pleanty for uv protection.

 

Clear is too thick.

 

I have no expert opinion( read" I know everything") but I just painted a Reatta that same color and I noticed that it sucks up heat worse than black car I own.. Had been painted 3 times and I stripped it completely and have had some problems .One spot was too much filler where I cheated a little. It's My driver not a customers. I'm in southern Colorado. 111 degrees today. Shit Happens but it still Sucks,

 

What brand materials? I use pretty much that same process all the time. Ill put a alot of polyester on sometimes, maybe prime and block 2 or 3 times, and a thin coat of urethane over the top to wet prep and then paint. Something weird is happening there, you should be able to put a decent amount of filler on and prime all you want and not have that failure with high quality material. There and tons of custom cars that have alot of material on them that hold up just fine... what did you put under the polyester primer over the bare metal?

 

finkd, your car's like your location bud, koolsville. It sounds like you gave it some genuine love and went all out. Did you use an etching primer under the poly prime? Epoxy under the poly prime? Polyester primers need to go over properly treated bare steel. The resins and solvents, similar to f'glass and bondo, tend to react with etching primers and epoxy coatings, the result being delamination later on. This may be your issue. That caught us by surprise many years ago, but luckily (?) it happened while surfacing the poly on that single panel we'd done it to. Worth a review...

 

NO , its not. wrong answer. but thanks

 

nope, I can read the can And know you cant put poly of etching. and Ive been useing the new formula made to go over bare metal, so you dont have to put dowm epoxy primer first, and I know you cant wet sand poly. dig deeper boys.

 

I shouldnt get involved but i find it funny that you ask for advice an anyone that says it might be a paint fault you jump right up and say , "no its not"...

We (most) all know this is Ian Berkys car and something went wrong since its been painted.
Getting a majority opinion from a chat forum probably isnt the best way of going about the issue. Frankly its about one step away from Judge Judy deciding what happened...

You both need and deserve a resolution to this matter, but this thread wont get you anywhere...unless you can be non-partison.

 

i think he came on here and ask for a professional opinion, not the views of any jack ass that owns a harbor fright hvlp gun and sprays some primer on his shit box.

give the guy some respect.

he has helped many with paint related questions, and i for one applaud the fact that he has the balls to post this in the first place.

 

Sorry guy, I can take the critisim, and I didnt say whos car it was, what I'm looking for here is an opinion from the professional painters on this board, I took one look and knew what the prob was, but then again I didnt feel that was fair, and If it is MY PAINT problem I will make an attempt to make this right. I know the clear isnt too thick, and if it was that is NOT what kind of problem you have from too thick of product, that was just a guess by someone that isnt a pro painter, sorry just telling it like it is. IF it was poly primer sprayed over etch primer the paint ,clear and primer bags and falls off in a chunk, leaving a nice gooey mess on top of the metal where the two products failed, been there. I am just tryin to get to the bottom since this sublect has apparently been discussed for thousands of miles since I see you are from mass, and appear to have discussed this before. I knew this was a risk to put this hear, as i was expecting a vast array of answers. but the ones who know will get it right. I will and everyone else, should be able to put more stock in answers from the people I'm trying to reach. such as if darryl hollinback had an input would hold more water then the guy who is just making an educated guess. so i would value that opinion more.

 

I'd say it probably has something to do with poor surface prep, more than likely underneath the filler. Only way to know for sure is to start peeling.