using lowering blocks with torque tubes

yeah i got the three inch kit from chevs of the forties. the shipping was expensive. sixty bucks for the kit, fifty bucks for shipping.

 

I just installed some 3" blocks in my 54, i went down to my local metal supplier and bought two peices of billet aluminum (had them cut it 1 3/4 wide x 3" tall and 4" long) and two inches of 1/2 steel rod....an hour later and a half later the car was on the ground 3" lower in the back....all for only $35.00! Cnd....i have pics I can post later...

 

Here`s a few pics......

 

thats exactly what my rear end looks like now, only one problem what about the rear tire blowing out and letting the u bolts dig into the highway? my bolts stick past the edge of the wheel and it looks like yours do too. is there something that can be done about that? i think the law up here is a half inch of clearance to any metal anywhere under the car.

 

Certain 1949-54 models essentially are a Chevy underneath, some are basically a rebadged Chevy, but some are the same as American and use the US Pontiac engines.

1955-1960, all of them have a Chevy chassis and engine/trans options.

Lot of goofy cars in Canada because of local content laws.

 

I`ll double check but I`m sure once i trim the u-bolts they miss buy about a 1/4 inch....and as for the laws depends on where you are in ontario according to the MTO a vehicles ride height can not be anymore than 2" higher or lower than stock.....( id love to see there spec book for that...lol)

 

Canadian built Poncho... I lived in Buffalo N.Y. growing up...We saw quite a few Canadian cars there. The 1960 Poncho , which had a wide body, was built on the '60 Chev frame.... which was narrower that the Pontiac "wide track" item of the day. The wheels set back in under the fenders,...You definitely recognized one right away.

4TTRUK

 

Here is something else to ponder: Torque tubes are (at ride height) in line with the crankshaft. When the rear is lowered, the phase angle goes out the window and would result in vibration and stresses similar to a standard drive shaft / rear end when the rear end is not parallel to the crankshaft center line.
Does anybody actually raise the rear motor mounts to bring a lowered torque tube in line with the crank center line?

 

The issue you speak of with the u bolts being below the rim level is called the scrub line nothing should hang below that imaginary line. Many states have laws, all might.

 

in that case i will have to do some rework here. i might try to cut the blocks down and take out some leaf springs so i can clear the scrub line. any advice would be great thanks guys!

 

you know i think the answer here is dearching the springs. i got my kid to stand on the bumper on the side i haven't touched yet and the springs flattened out and the ride height looks like what i want and the scrub line is obviously unchanged, so that looks like the way to go, what do you think?

 

i cut a inch off the blocks and put them in at two inches. now nothing is under the scrub line and the car is level with the chopped springs at the front. if i want to go lower i can always pull a spring or two at this point. the car sits as high as a stock modren vehicle now and drags ass a bit

 

here it is with the lowering done. got a picture of my kid working and getting greasy too!

 

Looks pretty good

 

looks good! like you said you can always pull a leaf or two from the spring pack. Or you can get the eyelets flipped.

 

I

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

You can get a couple of inches by flipping your main spring over. You may have to trim a little off the ends of the longest spring (Otherwise it will get jammed up under the "eye" bits of the main spring.