“What joy have I in June's return?" The June 2012 Banger Meet

Here's a picture of a Jewett pump installed on a '25 CHEV4, it probably comes down to what you can find that will fit the space available. Pat

 

Try try again, P

 

Stock, there is no seal, just an oil slinger that throws oil that leaks through the bearing into a cavity in the rear main block and cap. the oil then runs down a tube, and back into a the pan.

There have been several aftermarket seals offered, but as far as I know they all require the crank (at least) to be machined.

Leakage in the stock configuration is usually a sign of too much clearance in the rear main bearing, although even with good bearings, this was/is a problem--one of Fords "better ideas"

Back in "the day" we had a sure cure for this. We were always running junk engines--some leaked a little, most leaked a lot. We had no money for a main bearing babbit job, so our fix was to pull shims out of the bearings to tighten them up--or file the bearing caps if there were no shims left. Then we would pull the side cover, and shove pipe cleaners down the oil feed hole (behind the last tappet boss) to the rear main to restrict the amount of oil getting to the bearing--and before you cringe at this--we NEVER burnt out a rear main. Plenty of rods though.

No way are you going to fix this by pulling the transmission.

Roadsters --even then-- were out of our price range. Plenty of coupes or pickups available for $75-$100. Sedans? nobody wanted a f'en sedan!


Herb

 

what is a Jewett pump ? and where can they be found

 

Check the clearance and end play of the crank shaft

 

from a 1920s Jewett automobile I have been chasing one for about 5 years, they're rare as rocking horse shit.

 

anything less rare or newer? even if its a modern aftermarket pump someone has had luck with. I would like to know.

 

You can use the gear rotor punp from an Austin America or BMC (A block) stick shift.

Compact good looking and works very well

 

Spend some time at a junkyard looking at engines with external oilpumps, a gear type would be more period correct but there were older engines that used the gerotor design also. Modify a standard 350 CHEV pump, it's a gear type & has a built in pressure regulator, if your worried about being critiqued, I would think most people would appreciate the effort you put into the conversion rather than what pump you used. Warm up that Bridgeport & make chips! Pat

 

Thanks EBTM3 and JPBill.

I think I've got a handle on what you're telling me. I'll check it out with an engine manual so that I can "visualize" what you are saying.

Sounds like I will recycle a bit of oil until winter when I can address it properly :~)

Sent from a hand crank phone

 

I like how you sent the message. LOL

 

Another thought.... From your experience, would I get much change by switching to 50w in the summer. Currently using 30w with zinc additive.
Not a fix for sure. Just thinking less "recycling" until winter repairs.


Sent from a hand crank phone

 

Stick with 30

I blends into the street better

 

^^^Now that's funny!!!!!

Ron

 

^^^^
Agreed

Thanx Bluto ;~)

Sent from a hand crank phone

 

I found this at a swap meet a while back. It's set up for a ford. It looks different than the one pictured and I don't know what it is. I felt like I won the lottery. Norm

 

A lot of the roundy round boys modify VW oilpumps (make new housings) they work real well

 

Here's a crappy pic of my sprint car engine, with a cam driven late 30's Pontiac inline engine oil pump. These are external pumps, stock. Long stock drive casting is machined off, shaft shortened and milled with tang to engage slot in the end of cam. Bolts to 4 through studs brazed inside the gear cover.

 

Why use a zinc additive? It only adds to the expense and is NOT needed in these engines! There were no additives when these engines were developed. Zinc wasn't added until the 50's OHV's with the higher valve spring pressure's. First additives in engine oil were to facilitate pouring in colder weather. If you aren't going to fix the problem then wire a can under the flywheel housing to catch the oil. Sometimes that drain pipe in the rear main gets plugged up. Don't be afraid, go ahead and drop the pan and check the shims. I suppose I'm only adding to your confusion. When it comes to additives, one of the best signs I have seen was one that stated "There is no mechanic in this can!"

 

Sure is a cute lil picture!

 

JPBill...

I use the zinc to help the spent oil absorb into the asphalt better. ;-)

Seriously, just because I thought modern oils did lost some of the zinc that used to be in oils. For 6 bux per change I figured why not?

I am leaning toward checking that tube for blockage. I get a puddle of oil out of the flywheel housing the first night after I drive it. Then nothing. It accumulates somewhere and weeps out.
I will get familiar with the system and check it out. Pan will come off soon for inspection.

You'll know when it does 'cause I'll be posting more ?'s

Thanks

Sent from a hand crank phone

 

If you put a screen on the top of the can you can remove it pull the screen off and put the oil back in the motor..... or maybe not

If it's not leaking it may be empty too..... Bill

Smell the rods?

 

The "why not" is that as stated it is not needed in these engines! But it is your 6 bucks so go for it!

 

Zinc ....... 50wt ...... fill full of STP nothing is going to stop this leak until you take time to find the problem and fix it

That is just the truth! You drive an old car! Get over the idea there is a ''Fix in a can''

There are lots-0-things it could be but it NEEDS looking at

 

I agree with Bluto. My RPU leaked a bit until I changed the oil with Straight 30 weight, no more leaks. I was using Harley Davidson but this year I am going to try some a buddy of mine told me about from Dollar General. I know, I know cheap is cheap but my motor is very tired with a 16th of an inch ridge at the top of the cylinders and the HD stuff is expensive. I'm saving my pennies for an inserted long block.

 

There is a thread this AM on the A ford barn regarding pulling the pan and adjusting the bearings and installing new gaskets. That's where you newbies need to go for this beginners stuff. Joke! They are discussing the use of plastigage and or aluminum foil. If you don't have any shims left you can always file the caps Sure hope this is not too technical for you. Those guys over there are just sitting around hoping you will ask a question.

 

These are the tools for checking bearing clearences





Foil & plastigage don't work.... you gonna work in old stuff you gotta use the correct tools period

Bill you tell them ''Stupid is easy"

 

Thanks for the advice. Appreciated


Sent from a hand crank phone

 

Bluto--

Those "main bearing checkers" don't take two things onto account.

Crankshaft sagging (from the weight of the 68 pound flywheel in the case of a Ford A rear main) possibly avoidable by jacking the shaft up against the upper half of the bearing ---but

How much is the upper half of the bearing worn?--a VERY big factor in the case of a Ford A! Once the rear main gets loose, the shaft will beat the crap out of both the top and bottom babbit.

Or, how about an inserted block where the crank center has been moved up to machine the bores back round-- Even this small amount could make the diameter of the shaft (following the instructions) a couple thousandth OVERSIZE.

Seems to me that the magnitude of potential error makes them nice "you know what this is for?" items.

Herbie

 

Your right Herb.


They were made by Federal Mogal. FM must have thought they did something.

The is no real substitute for pulling an engine down, checking and fixing it right.

I have no use for babbit and shims. I just don't do it.

These gauges will tell you wear and oval.

I also have a crank grinder that works in the car with the pan off.

After looking into my insert ''B'' block I decieded to recast the 5-main.