So Saturday the 3rd of march, the day before the Essex swappy Smithy on the other channel offers the rear half of a 31 victoria, jumped in the car went and put a deposit down sweet. went to the swappy and bought some 31 model a panels 1. pair of rear wings £50 - full of glen miller, but steel, and wrong for body, so its being tubbed. carved the filler from them, ones a re-popper, sweet 2. got a cowl top, covered in surface rust.. turned out nice, slight dent in the top. - sorted the steering whilst at it bought front steel 31 fenders, bonnet, and running boards from the same guy, havn't done them yet. 3. at the swappy I paid £75 or a 8 and 9 inch case, just put the 8'' down and then sold it for the same so got a free 9'' case -mustang 72 small bearing don't think I have ever had one as rust free, needs re-tubing at 3'' all over in 5mm cds seamless, need 2 bits 365mm long. got some 31 splined small bearing shafts for £20, I can use the short one in the long side, narrow the long one to 25 1/4'' and I have a centred case axle 54'' wide = ideal 4. got the rear wheels sorted, I think they were £15. 10 by 15 vintiques, the stripper, wire-wheel and paint cost more. turned out nice 235 70 15 tyres on them, tyres fitter can't get the other one to snap onto the bead, didn't have a tube to blow it up and snap it, I always thought they kept them in, apparentlyyou just use it to snap the bead on, then take the tube out....anyways, fully fendered and unchopped, just low, this pic spurred me on to go and spend some money with jack hammer on a front end, so last Saturday went and got a cross-member to start the chassis, so-cal front axle 47'' wide, like a heavy 'b' 36'' boss for a 29'' spring., got me perches shock mounts and spindles, spring clamp, 11'' rotors bearings and the bearing adaptor £615 - sweet. still need a 29 1/4'' spring and 4bar batwings though...plus I need two 2'' and a smidge grease seals 5. toyed with the ideal of ford explorer discs on rear and explorer front calipers on the 11'' rotors, but shall simply do it jelly-mould and drum. seems like they will fit and I have a 2 piston caliper, alas ready made cast caliper carrier and 82-92 chevy calipers at cheap and new sounds a bit more easy. 6. whilst at it , planned the chassis out layed out full size over the pic, cross member to scale full size, rear axle at 54'', wheels and tyres and back space, could then figure out the return bend at the rear. waiting for my steel to come.... 90 by 50 x 4mm thick, will spray the steel white, cut out a full size sticker with the measurements on, they spray black over, and 1mm cutting disc it all out - the tapers and the bends still needs some tweaking, just bought a pocket mig, I can tack it all together, set it up for all the giblets, then cut it all apart, as the rails have to then go back through the kitchen window. will have it pro welded, hopfully tigged so I shant have to grind any welds. so went and picked it up today, first went in a break down truck to collect it, had to turn back just before the a3 on towards guilford, as the truck was running bad, then thought who do i know with a van....? last week I fitted some graphics for a fella on his van, still had the file with the phone number, 15 minutes later, I was back on the road, keeping my fingers croswsed all the way there.... then all the way back the pop must go now..... so there you are. the parts I require are as follows 1. front spring calipers and adaptors, 2 6j 15 vintique wheels and tyres, 4 bar batwings, 1/2'' wheel nuts rhd steering arms 2'' grease caps 2. 31 splined centre 25 1/4'' 31 splined shaft 2 bits 3'' tube 365mm, 10 by 2 rear brakes small bearing 3. 31 cowl, any doors with the double swage, b shell, apron for b, fender and board braces 4. headlight bar and lights rear lights and stalks 5. 302 and t5 , rod headers
I doubt very much I will find any vicky doors in the uk. I think I shall be making them using sedan or truck window apertures, THERE WERE TWO TRUCK DOORS CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP at the swap-meet, but alas, I only have a little car, and I had already stuffed it full of two 31 by 12 inch wheels with tyres two front fenders two rear fenders two running boards an axle case plus all the stuff I took!!!!! the rear valance - i dunno yet, I havn't planned the rear part of the frame, i will however need some assistance with regards measurements of the door aperture. can't really start anyways, as have nothing to splice together, or a cowl I am thinking of a more 'b' esque screen surround though. p.s. didn't realise just how much wood is in them - !!!! pps could you buy this for me and ship it to me? http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63668
You could start with a Murray Fordor cowl and doors. That would be the best to start with. The doors are around four inches longer. If you got all four doors you could use the passenger rear, along with a drivers front and build a drivers door. Vice versa for the passenger door. Couldn't find a good pic to copy and paste, but found this link: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jacksnell707/3177596902/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/jacksnell707/3177596902/
Nice score, I've always wanted to find one about like that and swap on a 28-29 cowl and doors, and chop it, hard
i am just a nubie to the 31 slants, but what are the differences? I have a slant cowl, but do not know weather it was a vicky or a fordor. Can either door work for me as long as it is a slant window door, or am i looking for the needle in the haystack? Adam
I don't think the guy is at all interested in shipping it to the uk - maybe anywhere? maybe its sold maybe its for collection only? he hasn't replied. anyways, was axle fun today collected all my front brake parts too. getting close to having rolling axles... you have to start from the ground up?
can i send you some pay-pal for the ebay door? or is it a hassle, as much as it would be for me, shipping wise who is on the east side?????????????????????????
Dave, How does the Slant windsheild Cabriolet cowl fit in? I know the header is different, but do the door hinges line up with Vicky and Fordoors? Bob
Good stuff Dave, I'm fairly sure Kevin is the same guy on The Ford Barn, a very knowageable guy in New Jersey. All Cabriolet stuff is more costley than other A body styles. Nobody mentioned the nice looking filled roof on nobby's body, looks like a very nicely done job.Bob
now going with 8 and 6 wheelsmith had to swap the front rotors chev to ford, took ages to physically go and get some steel wiith the seam on the short-side, so I can cut the taper completely off, so I am not butt-welding the sides, may truss the inside, - the idea here is that the steel is 3mm-11 guage, and the flats are guilly cut and in 6mm -twice as thick, so 3mm in and 3 out - 90 degrees for weld bead, -I can't weld too well, I did try making a frame for the anglia I just had, but I wasn't happy with it, couldn't clamp the taper up nice with the seam there, as the seam wasn't square. more importantly easier to do, as when I clamp it all up to weld I shant have to measure, simply check its square. Thats the plan, It will pronbably all go tits up, but as long as I am having fun.... hasn't stopped raining for 2 weeks though, cowls bought and coming, so is one door, - need another. the wants list is depleating quite well.
want to try and do a tube x-member, I know its not that trad!! I hope to have the tube land on the tapers, will take a tad of head scratching, as the cut in the tube is compound and will hit at two faces. /\ I just wanted to thank Atomic Punk publicly for his efforts in dropping a cowl off for me for gas and tolls = THANK YOU also thanks for the vicky door link, as thats in the container too!!! 'JUST' need the other side !!! thanks
HELP!!! ROOKIE question are both model a's and b's, 3 inches at the cross-members? all I have is on-line pictures to scale from, - are these aftermarket cross-members designed to fit into b rails, and you trim them for model a's? I don't know where i got this from? - but it is throwing me....... on an 'A' do you cut off the tab/\ I kind of like that fatter chassis, but I know not yet if the steering links will clash? Do I simply go with the stamped in 7 degree rake. -model a 103.5'' wheel base.
temporary cross-members at the corresponding bends, squared up. angles check side to side for symmetry should have cut the rear taper before doing it, but I wasn't too sure how I wanted the taper, was easier to clamp them together and tickle them up with the flap-wheel, will HAVE to cut them perfect!!
thanks for your efforts getting the cowl no new jersey!!! TO ALL - PLEASE LOOK OUT FOR A DRIVERS DOOR THANKS p.s. are slant cowl lower rebates different from the others = bar the hinges?
came out quite good all the body panels seem to fit well engine placement now - getting a 94 stang front cover and water pump, is it as simply as pulling the impeller off and fitting it the other way around? for cw rotation? also, does the bottom of the block line up with the top of the frame - at the cover end? is it actually better to have the motor and trans rearward.?
Looks like you will have a radiator vs fan issue over the crossmember. Get the motor as far back as you can, try to establish the fan height optimal for cooling the radiator. Might need a trans tunnel to do that. Looks a lot better up higher
front fenders, cowl, running boards, at correct place, 95stang short pumd, will have a slim push fan in the front of a 32 shell steering now, need right hand drive power assistance as running 215 tyres vega - c class merc - bmw 7 series discount the bmw, too big and turns wrong, merc action is correct. proporrtions from frame rail, steering arm travel, the same shaft in to shaft out length - weighs more. The roll pins can be some allen heads for location hopefully there is a model that angles this to where the original casting foot is...........or out comes the file, the lower ones can stay at that angle, then the 10mm tab can get a weld bead. fits! encroachment is equal tabs to bottom 10mm, all bolts m10 by 1.5 grind the upper parts to wedge/angle the shaft in to be perfect run the power assist pump above, short lines. no aching arms, releve all the upper mountings, use stock in shaft with dampner, paint, polish alloy heat sheild. sink it in to the left a tad gains = stronger smoother action power steering bigger mounting area. perfect orientation - well , you grind the upper two feet to dial it in It wont even squeal though as its serpentine still they are cheap http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/steering-...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b59a4ad7 any of you antipodeans have a hq holden steering box you can send me? thanks
Just found this thread. I have been trying to gather parts to assemble a '31 slant window Cabriolet. I've found that '31 slant window sedan doors are very, very close to working on the cab. In looking for parts for it I stumbled on a cowl and RH door for a vicki. I'm thinking that I could supply you with comparitive?? measurements. I could fit a sedan door to the vicki cowl, etc. Check the height of the window opening, etc. Supply pictures of these parts fitted together? I might be able to supply you with upper door frame. If I can be of any help let me know. Norm
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