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Stripped exhaust bolt help.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by max wedge, Jul 23, 2005.

  1. So I've got a blown head gasket on my 68 Cadillac. I spent all day long busting my ass getting all the crap off it (alt,smog pump, etc..) today.
    I'm down to the last exhaust bolt, the one in front thats easy to reach on the pass side and it stripped. I had a 12 point box end wrench with a pipe on the end of it to get leverage. Can't fit a socket on it, the suspension is too close, unless I custom grind the socket shorter. I've been spraying PBblaster on it every couple days. Haven't heated it yet though. I'm thinking I got to get a 6 point box end. Any ideas????
     
  2. 50dodge4x4
    Joined: Aug 7, 2004
    Posts: 3,534

    50dodge4x4
    Member

    Sounds like its time for a little heat and a 6 point wrench. Maybe a custom cut socket (6 point), and a little heat might be the best answer.

    Think about this, it you get a 6 point to hold, and don't heat it up and the 6 point slips, what will you do then? Vice Grips and a lot of heat? Grinder? Gene
     
  3. Just what I've been thinking, but now should I heat the bolt or the manifold? or both? Expanding metal is what i'm wondering about, if I heat the manifold only then I expand that metal right?
     
  4. 61bone
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 890

    61bone
    Member

    Sears has some nifty stripped head sockets that work very well.
    Reach in there and heat the bolt head to dark cherry red. let it cool till dark and spray with blaster or kroil. Do this several times before trying to turn it. Don't breathe the vapors and keep your fire extinguisher handy
     

  5. jalopy43
    Joined: Jan 12, 2002
    Posts: 3,085

    jalopy43
    Member Emeritus

    I've had good results,with heating the bolt red.Let it cool a bit,then touch the shank with a candle. The heated threads will 'suck' the parrifin wax in,and lubricate the threads. Sears has wrenches that put pressure on the flat side of the hex,instead of just the corners. They work well also. good luck. sparky:D
     
  6. ironpile
    Joined: Jul 3, 2005
    Posts: 915

    ironpile
    Member

    Grind the head off ,remove manifold,then heat bolt good and remove with a pipe wrench Jerry:D
     
  7. I've used the sears stripped bolt sockets, they work very well. They also have them in a shortened version for tight places. I would use the heat, wax and the stripped bolt remover. I bet she'll come right out.
     
  8. Thanx guys! I was thinking 'bout heading to sears on sunday to look at what they got. A short socket might work, cutting the bolt off probably wont because I can't move the manifold back far enough to get it past the rest of the bolt. Didn't think of the wax trick, I'll try it.
     
  9. Morrisman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2003
    Posts: 1,602

    Morrisman
    Member
    from England

    Try tightening the bolt a touch, rather than just leaning on it in the 'undo' direction. Sometimes rocking to and from can ease it loose.

    Plus, when you do get it moving, don't just ratchet it out even if it's tight as fuck, take it out as if tapping a hole in reverse: half a turn out, a quarter back in, half a turn out, a quarter back in. This might stop it galling and tearing the thread up any worse than you need to.
     
  10. InjectorTim
    Joined: Oct 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,241

    InjectorTim
    Member

    well if all else fails I'm sure heat will loosen it up.
     
  11. fleetwood
    Joined: Mar 9, 2005
    Posts: 36

    fleetwood
    Member

    Those are some great suggestions. I got to remember these. I've seen Kroil do some amazing magic on stuck and rusted shit. I buy it by the gallon
     
  12. nero
    Joined: Jan 2, 2002
    Posts: 205

    nero
    Member

    ironpile hase the right ticket,,,,,,,blow the head off..remove the manifold,may have to wiggle themanifold,then use a pipe wrench done thousands that way! mostly chevy snowplow trucks.
     
  13. Bought a set of 6 point wrenchs from sears, heated up the manifold and it came right out.
     

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