Wow!! I'm using yours for a guide when I re-do mine! You're right about needing a top; too many sun burns for me.
Thanks everybody! 37Kid - Here are a couple of pictures. The top is not a real folding top, but rather either on or off. It has an oak header panel with aluminum turned bushings to engage the top of the stanchions and two bows made from electrical conduit. There is no brace between the bows and the header, just the fabric. It holds up well and there is no unreasonable flapping. First mock-up with paper. The finished top uses two fabric strips tolimit the maximum angle between the two bows and there is a strip of velcro on one of the bows and the inside of the top material. The material is permanenetly attached to the header panel and the bows are separate.
Squirm, thank you my friend! Whole familiy is doing rela well. Getting ready to take a trip to the Fatherland next month haha...
Very nice rebirth of your roadster - great little detail items really tighten up an already great build. Your car looks killer ... As for your dizzy, I'm not understanding the pinging. I have a stock crab dizzy rebuilt by Bubba w/electronic insides and there is no pinging but I'm runnig a "Y" and the carbs are progressive. Now, I'm no dual carb guru with regard to the flattie but jets on 2 deuces running simultaneously, if they are 94s, should be it the 46-48 range (stock was around 51-52) depending on your application. Also, the power valves around the 4.5 range (stock was 6.5 I think) - again, everything depends on your application, lift in your cam, etc, etc. It does take alot of experimentation and patience to get them right. I have 2-deuces on my 40 coupe running simultaneously and they were a bear to get set up right. I think I'm finally dialed in correctly now as the last couple of long trips of 3500 and 1800 miles seemed to indicate. If you get on the Fordbarn, you may want to do a search for carb settings there as there was much discusion on this subject at one time. Again, great rebuild ....
Tom - thanks for the info. Electronic conversion of the dizzy is an option. The problem with only a centrifugal advance is that it s already fully advanced at 2200rpm and that can still fall squarely in the acceleration range. The more I retard the timing the harder it seems to start - it cranks real easy but doesn't want to catch.
really nice roadster I hope some of the FNG's take a look at what this place is about, you nailed it.
Do you have a TDC mark on the crank pulley? Make marks for 4°BTDC and 20° Then check with a timing light After that you know if your timing is good or not full advance by 2000rpm is not a problem The electronic conversion only replace the points, centrifugal advance stays the same. The motor should not ping..... Pining is mostly an ignition problem (At least on a flathead ) or not enough octane , which i doubt on a low comression motor like a flathead I run 4° at idle and 20° at 2000RPM and never have a problem I tried more than 20° (up to 30°) and never noticed more power..... Check dwell, too
Thanks for the top photo and info, like the rest of the car it's a well thought out piece, the forward angle of the back bow looks very nice. Bob
HotRodMicky - I made a mark when I timed the cam. I am using the same numbers you are using. Piston to head clearance is around .050". I am running high octane. I will have to look at the points again. Had the dizzy rebuilt by GMCBubba shortly before taking the car apart 3 years ago and when I first tried to start it up the points were completely oxidized and I had to use sandpaper to get them working again. Maybe that accounts for the hard starting as well.
Thanks for the compliment. The top is a little stubby because I need the full windshield height but it has worked out well. Once I put it on it will probably stay on the car...
Here are a couple of pictures of the reworked 36 rear radius rods. They were so rusted out at the bottom that I decided to slice them in half and weld a length of DOM over the entire length of the rods. I used a piece of solid round stock on the inside where the tubing meets the forging to have a solid base to weld on. I wanted to retain the front mounting location of the P&J ladder bars and replicated the mounting location on the rear end axle tubes. Unfortunately the old spring brackets had a different distance between spring and axle center line, which made it necessary to fabricate new spring hangers as well. The cut off ends of the 36 radius rods were used to make shock mounts. Since I am running an open drive line I added upper links to the radius rods. I ground all the welds and used a needle scaler to give them more of a cast look.
Well all that sounds good........ I`m sure Bubba will check the distributor quickly if you send it to him Michael
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