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Projects My 52 Ford F1 Project

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 52 Ford F1, Mar 13, 2012.

  1. Hello All,
    I have just begun working on a 52 ford F1 project. I bought the truck for just over $2k about a week ago and have some plans in the air that I need to get a more solid idea on. I do not have a ton of cash, and am used to building choppers more than classics, but I am trying something new.

    I have removed the wood, bed, interior, fenders, hood, bumpers, lights, etc. for the tear down and am getting ready to strip the paint.

    I have the rear frame brushed clean and coated, but I have bought paint stripper which I was planning on using for the body. As the pics show.. the body is far from perfect... I am going for a driver not a show truck, but I want some metal instead of all bondo...

    For bodywork I will be using my mig, sheet metal, and body hammer set to get it close before using bondo to make it what it is not... I am exposing the hood vents, shaving the handles and exterior locks, but otherwise keeping it pretty stock. I plan on keeping it in flat black primer in the interim to avoid more rust once I strip it with paint stripper.
    I am not sure about removing the drip edge - Have not seen a truck without them yet. Any Pics?

    For interior I have bought new heat mat and carpet, the stock seats are not bad (no rips/tears), and I have not seen any damage to the floorplan besides just around the fuel tank hole on the floor.
    I want to do some metal plates for the door panels instead of upholstery, or something unique... Any pics/suggestions?

    For the bed I want to utilize bed coating for the metal strips and install new strips, I am going to be using square stock for the rails, as mine have begun to rust.

    For the motor/mechanics it has a stock overhead 6 cylinder, runs and drives and stops but I plan to go through the brakes, install new shocks, and pack the bearings so I can drive it for awhile while I save for a new motor. I want to do axle over conversion in the rear, anyone performed on here? I was thinking about removing some leafs from the front/evaluating an inexpensive drop for the front... Any suggestions?

    Please let me know if you have any comments or suggestions for a noob.
     

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    chriseakin likes this.
  2. jack orchard
    Joined: Aug 20, 2011
    Posts: 238

    jack orchard
    Member

    you have a solid truck for your project. bought it for a very reasonable price. what are your long-term plans for the drivetrain? don't forget to consider a flathead with T5 five speed. good luck keep us posted...jack
     
  3. Right now I am looking at 302's 352 ho's or (i hate to say it for the ford traditionalists) a 350... The main reason for the 350 is I have a friend who has one he isnt using that I may be able to get to close to free.... The overhead straight 6 runs good for now and the 3 speed on the tree shifts surprisingly good, new motor = new motor, trans, driveshaft, rear dif, etc, etc, $, and more $. Then it will be fast enough to need new brakes, etc..
    Any ideas on budget motors/trans combos that work good with a 52 for someone on a budget?
     
  4. Chefbiz62
    Joined: Jul 25, 2011
    Posts: 94

    Chefbiz62
    Member
    from Omaha, Ne

    Nice truck..I am building a 1950 F1 Can't wait to see how you progress...
     

  5. FrozenMerc
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 3,093

    FrozenMerc
    Member

    Do not use the 350, if your friend wants to give it away, take it off his hands and sell it to some one who doesn't know any better and use the money for a Ford.

    I removed the bottom 6 inches of my drip rails (due to damage) on my '51 and it has worked out OK. I like both looks, it kind of depends on what you are going to do to the truck. Mild custom, or more of a restored cruiser (resto-mod, but I hate that term)

    Good Luck

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Does anyone have a picture of one without the drip edge?
     
  7. Spending most of my time so far attacking the body work, or at least getting down to metal... It had a lot of bondo on it! (see picture after grinding into the bondo to show the depth)

    I used industrial paint stripper, razors, knotted wire wheel grinder, and paint remover wheel grinder... Worked OK, wish there was a bondo stripper...

    I was mainly messing around with the hood paintjob, but it is growing on me... I sprayed the center with rust inhibitor for now, the lines arent nearly as nice as they need to be, but I still have some metal work to do...
    Any thoughts on the look of the hood? - I was also thinking about just leaving the angled part on the side of the center of the hood as bare metal.. (the bodyline)

    Anyways, Now that I have the hood and rear fenders more or less stripped and temporarily coated, time to try to get the front clip off, paint the engine bay, and do some welding and hammering.

    Parts Arrived: New carpet, sound mats, gas shocks all around, door poppers, etc...
     

    Attached Files:

    chriseakin likes this.
  8. Ford52PU
    Joined: Jan 31, 2007
    Posts: 519

    Ford52PU
    Member
    from PA

    Nice looking truck, good luck with it. You might want to goggle FTE and check out the Ford truck owners site. A lot of good guys over there that can offer a lot of good help. Between here and there most of your questions will be answered!

    good luck.
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2012
  9. Got a little work done today, but most importantly I got my girlfriend to pitch in... She is pretty decent with the paint stripping wheel surprisingly.

    I got about 2 hours of work out of her... but hopefully she will be lending a hand again. She even road in the back on the way there so our dog could sit shotgun.

    I am on FTE as well, I like the build tracker thread... Just only keeping 1 forum updated for now... Maybe I will put a condensed recap up after I get it presentable.
     

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    chriseakin likes this.
  10. Got the inside and rails of the bed stripped and primed. Gonna have to make some cuts to pull the front of the bed straight again... Have some work to do to the area around the old fender mounting hardware and plenty of sheet metal banging for the rest.

    The rear fenders are done, hood is done... I am attacking the exterior of the bed next, then finishing the tailgate, and then the real fun begins with the front fenders and cab. Expecting a lot of bondo on the front fenders, but the cab looks pretty solid. Probably not gonna strip the engine compartment.

    I think I am going to replace the old fender mounting hardware with standard bolts to simplify everything. Any advice on how to repair the bolt openings to bring them back to round? I was thinking of just rebuilding with flux, but is it better to cut out more metal and patch a new plate in and drill?

    Hoping to get the messiest/dustiest work done before the heat so I can work in the cool garage. Still have to install the sound mat, new carpet, figure out the blower which looks new but incomplete, and then figure out what to do with the headliner and door panels.

    Saving the shock install and lowering until the body stripping is done. Anyone have lessons learned from an axle leaf swap? From reading it seems people lean towards a mustang II front end, but I am looking for a cheaper alternative... Perhaps drop axle/spindles?

    I have an extra gas tank for sale if anyone needs one. Also have an extra set of the pedal assembly.
     

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    chriseakin likes this.
  11. gearhead1952
    Joined: Dec 17, 2006
    Posts: 308

    gearhead1952
    Member

    I have done a few 9 inch rear swaps in F1s best way to go to get highway gears. Why not leave that stock axle up front and put in lowered springs from posies? You can always change to a mustang II later when you get a lot of money. I think the must II is too weak for a truck but I know a lot of people do them to get them low. I put the posies springs on both of my trucks and am happy with them.
     
  12. PaulD
    Joined: Mar 25, 2012
    Posts: 48

    PaulD
    Member

    Get your self an XJ6 Jaguar pull the front suspension out of it and put a nine inch in the rear on leaves. You will end up with a really good ride. The Jags weigh heaps and the front end is bullet proof. If you get an XJ6. pulle the rear diff out and sell it then flog the rest of the car on ebay for parts.

    I'm not a purist but I would look at a 351W or cleveland it will give you enough power to scare the living crap out of you in that vehicle.

    I am putting a 400C in mine probably with some 302 cleveland heads (aussie heads).

    Best of luck.
     
  13. Got a whole lot more stripping done.... Rear fenders inside and out, Tailgate, Rear bed, good chunk of the doors, and rear of cab.

    Got some dis-assembly taken care of too... not one bolt came off without a lot of help... But got the front clip off.

    Pretty disappointing to find what was hidden under the front passenger bumper... The teeth are ok, but I am worried about what lies beneath the center section of the front clip and lower front panel around bumper. I am hoping that I can get away with just buying new front fenders... there goes $525 (Update: Got lucky and found a used set, the fiberglass ones would have run over $1500 for uppers and lowers)
    The rear cab has some minor holes I can weld up, the driver door has a bottom patch panel that was hidden behind bondo, but the the passenger door looks like a newer swapout.

    After I finish stripping the cab I will start jumping on body work while I try to plan what to do with the motor. If I get bored there's the suspension and brakes to give a good once over too.
    As I said it runs, but I am unsure if I want to dump a bunch of time and money in to fixing it up to swap it out.... Will post motor pics in next post.
     

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    Last edited: Feb 1, 2013
    chriseakin likes this.
  14. I wouldn't be in a hurry to buy new fenders unless this is a truck you want to wrap up quick. I was practically tripping over 51-52 fenders while trying to find some for my F-1.
     
  15. I am still stripping and grinding away, getting into the detail stuff takes a lot longer than the main body work. I have the majority of the roof done, but getting the drip rail fully stripped is slowing me down along with the door jams and around the windows. The drip rails are being banged out with my hammer and dolly set. Still wishing someone has pics of a 52 with the drip rails removed... Very tempted to cut them off...

    With any luck I will get the stripping done on the cab section by the end of next weekend and have a good start on the front assembly. Have been scouring craigslist for front fenders and ebay... If anyone has some for sale feel free to message me.

    Anyone have a 6 cyl 3 speed restored to drive as stock? How is the power (or lack of) and is 55mph cruising speed easy enough to maintain?
     

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    chriseakin likes this.
  16. Did not get as much done last weekend as I had hoped to.

    I did get the front bumper shaved off and remembered to take and post some engine pics... Anyone know what motor this is? I have a feeling its not original and I have a feeling there should be a cover over that gear....

    I threw up a picture of my helper Spike...

    Any help on the motor would be appreciated... Also, is it period correct? I know its an older engine and they did offer a 6 cyl overhead... but is there a difference between mine and stock? Any indicators I should look for?
     

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    Last edited: May 22, 2012
    chriseakin likes this.
  17. Little behind on posting. Got more stripping done and now focusing on some subtle upgrades... Shaved the handles, antenna, filling seams, removing front bumper, etc.

    Went through the rear brakes and everything seems good.

    I picked up an air compressor and am starting to collect the tools needed to really get the use out of it.
     

    Attached Files:

    chriseakin likes this.
  18. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,160

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    cool build. keep at it
     
  19. Got the antenna and door plates in for the shave job. Still have to wire the poppers.

    Picked up a used engine. 351 Windsor (pics below) Probably could have gotten a better deal, but this looked clean on the inside. (outside not so much)
    Totaled up costs so far... Still well under $4,000 which I do not think is too bad..

    Goal is to end under $6,000... I also will have a stockpile of parts to sell to try to minimize the capital investment once I am sure I do not need them.

    Got the passenger door off to make it easier to weld back up and give better access to the interior.

    Started up and recorded the engine that came with the truck running for probably the last time (in my truck).... Getting ready to pull it. It will be for sale once the new engine is installed if anyone is interested PM me.

    This long weekend will be an excellent opportunity to get some work done if it stays cool! Maybe even get the old engine, radiator, and trans out?
     

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  20. the first thing you should do is to convert the front drums to disc brakes...the stock brakes are ok for around town use (45 mph or so), but absolutely horrible at highway speeds...I know this first hand...I've owned my 52 F1 since 1980....If you can't stop safely, then everything else you do just doesn't matter at all !!....stock F1 brakes SUCK !!!
     
  21. Model40-770
    Joined: Aug 24, 2005
    Posts: 273

    Model40-770
    Member
    from LOUISIANA

    I will second that on disk brakes. I just about lost my first car (67 Mustang) to drum brakes. Headed to work (17 and headed to walmart) a 1986 grand am came to a complete stop, then when I got closer pulled out. I locked up the brakes, slowed down a lot, but still hit him in the driver side rear. He was attempting to pull out into the opposite late headed North as I was South bound. If I would of had disks then I would of stopped before I hit him or at least slowed it way down and the wreck would of been less severe. I only damaged the front clip, the sub frame was spared. Remember in the end it may not even be your fault. It's always the other guy you got to look out for.

    I am working on a 52 myself right now. Before I even got the engine fully bolted down it had disk brakes on the front. Found a place that offered 11" and 12" brakes. The 12" (11 3/4") rotor has stock pickup bolt pattern, the 11" has one of two passenger car bolt patterns.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  22. MeanGene427
    Joined: Dec 15, 2010
    Posts: 2,307

    MeanGene427
    Member
    from Napa

    Where did you find the pickup disc kits? Kinda looks like a Scarebird setup, but they don't list that app. What rotor and caliper is used?
    Thanks
     
  23. MeanGene427
    Joined: Dec 15, 2010
    Posts: 2,307

    MeanGene427
    Member
    from Napa


    Found it- thanks
     
  24. My brakes have pretty good feel, stop straight, so I think I will chance upgrading them after I get the motor and trans in.
    I fully realize eventually it is a needed upgrade! My truck is not registered so I will gauge how much the brakes need to be upgraded after I get her putting down the driveway. It seems like there are soo many brake options from cheap to way expensive....

    What are some of the cheap upgrades you would recommend and maybe links or ordering information?
    Has anyone upgraded to a newer drum set, or even modified the originals to function better? I have drums on my daily driver so I am aware of there shortfalls, but they cannot be that bad if they are still used today with all these stringent safety requirements, right?

    For the transmission I am thinking C6 auto... Anything I should be picky about when finding one? I have seen several on craigslist from rebuilds to salvaged, but I wonder how versatile the C6 was.... Most I have seen have been 2wd 3 speeds. I do not plan on this truck being a drag car, but I would like to be able to cruise comfortably at highway speeds. I know I can compensate with rear gearing, but would rather keep a good balance of acceleration and gas mileage if possible. Any of the C6's have a mechanical speedo that is compatible with the stock gauges?

    Did not get much actual work done today, lots of driving but managed to pick up an engine stand, and a full new set of front sheet metal. New hood, new upper fenders, inner fenders (I do not think these were on 52's but assume they will fit), lowers, teeth, upper middle section, and middle middle section for $450... Only minor damage to the hood and one of the upper fenders but no rust! Should save tons of fabrication time.
     
  25. Sanford&Son
    Joined: Oct 13, 2006
    Posts: 759

    Sanford&Son
    Member
    from Visalia,Ca

    Looks like your off to a great start, I attached some pics of my "Junk":cool:
     

    Attached Files:

  26. ventureboy
    Joined: Jun 27, 2010
    Posts: 7

    ventureboy
    Member

    Check Speedway, their truck catalog has the best value in disk brake kits for F-1 axle that I've seen. Just got mine from them for abt $300.00 w/shipping . Hope that helps. And you can call them, their tech and sales people were very helpful w/me.
     
  27. Model40-770
    Joined: Aug 24, 2005
    Posts: 273

    Model40-770
    Member
    from LOUISIANA

    I got mine from performaceonline.

    http://www.performanceonline.com/19...-Front-Disc-Brake-Conversion-Wheel-Kit-18515/

    I haven't had a chance to do some real testing on them yet but should have the package rolling under it's own power this time home from work.
     
  28. MeanGene427
    Joined: Dec 15, 2010
    Posts: 2,307

    MeanGene427
    Member
    from Napa

    Yep, that's the one I found with a little searching- the Speedway kit looks similar (may be the same?) The king pins and such seem tight on mine, and as the brakes would have to be gone thru anyway, the bolt-on kit sounds pretty good- thanks
     
  29. bbbronc
    Joined: Jan 28, 2011
    Posts: 126

    bbbronc
    Member

    When looking for a c6 make sure it will bolt up to your 351w alot of them came behind 460s and 400m's. You might consider buying a c4. It will handle the power and might be easier to find one to bolt up to the small block
     
  30. PaulD
    Joined: Mar 25, 2012
    Posts: 48

    PaulD
    Member

    I am having the opposite problem here at the moment. I am trying to find a C6 to suit the big block pattern and all I seem to be able to find are the small block ones.

    I have to agree on the C4 box too. Great horse power handler without much work. Good sized shafts and band packs are easily up graded.
     

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