i am trying to find a frame that will work under my new 34 chevy coupe. if any one knows of a frame that will work for me, i will check it out. muchly apreciated.
There were two different wheel bases offered that year = 107" and 112". Either way I would think you could find one in the classifieds if you want to stay Chevy. Now if it's the 107", you can look at Nailhead Terrys Chevy that he put on a repo 32 ford frame (106") and it looks really good.
'32 Ford frame gets my vote. Less springs, less weight, and so much prettier! ( I'm sure several will disagree, ha!)
thanks alot, i think the 32 frame is the one that i may go with. to the other 34, i can't see the tpics for my vission loss. but i would like to stay chevy, so thanks for the tip on the classifieds.
I'm doing a 34 Standard Sedan. The stock frame was total junk thanks to to many prior owners that didn't have a Clue. I chose to use a Superior Glass works after market chassis. They only offered a 4 link rear so I had them mount a Chassis Eng. dual leaf spring kit supplied by myself. Also a Hights front coil over unit also supplied by myself. There New frame rails are designed to work with there Glass bodies. I took my stock Steel body on the stock frame to there shop to have it mounted while on their frame jig. None of these were good decisions! Their chassis must be fine with there body but not even close with a Factory unit. Do yourself a big favor and find a nice stock set of rails to start with or know going in you have a lot of work ahead of you. Here is a shot of how well the replacement chassis follows the Stock inner body sub rails. Only 1 of several issues. You would have thought they would have noticed something wasn't right prior to drilling for the body to frame bolt holes. The Wizzard
I'd vote for a Chevy frame. That's what I used on my 33 Chevy. We boxed it and added the center section and suspension. I used Posie's rear leaf springs so I could use a Chevy 10 bolt rear and keep the drive train all Chevy. You could always go with an aftermarket like Roadster Shop and choose the suspension you want. Not cheap though.
No ones going to sugesst s-10. Oh thank god. I say chevy frame. Sure you will have some work in cleaning it up, boxing it, putting axles under it etc. But in my opinion it makes it more of an investment than just a bunch of parts stacked together. If this was easy every one would be driving a rod. If you go straight axle in the front you can always get it drilled for chevy car spindles. And honestly a ford frame is not going to be a straight forward swap either. It is going to take some work. Just my opinion. Good luck and have fun.
I think the reason the steel body didn't line up on this frame was because the shop left out some wood. On the stock frame there would have been a 1.5 inch wood frame work between the body and frame onder the seating area. The body dosen't rest on the frame like a new car. Just a guess, hard to really see with this pic.
All the wood in my body has been removed and a steel inner structure built. The Body was mounted on the stock rolling frame with stock frame mounts. A motor and trans were in place when it went to Superior Glass. What I was pointing out is that there Chassis may work well under there Glass body's, you'll have your hands full making it work with a stock Steel one. Even the rear wheel base isn't correct to stock. It may be with there 4 link but the rear axle housing has fixtures in there frame jig and my spring mounts were put in place on there jig. The Wizzard