Where's the best place to get a power rack for a Mustang II? I don't want to say cheapest, I'd rather say "best value for the money" I mean, this IS a steering component, I'd rather not buy cheaply made parts. Also, I have a Chevy pump and lines already, so would I be alright using it with a valve kit or would I be better off getting one for a Mustang? Thanks, guys!!
It's been six years but I got the best deal at our local NAPA store. Bought a T-Bird rack. Heard they had better feel and ratio.
My mustang II kit came with a rack that was in a Napa box. not sure if that's originally where it's from but I would give it a shot. and to answer your question about the power steering pump, If it were me, I would get a new ford pump. you said it yourself, no reason to go cheap since its a steering component.
T-Bird rack, circa 1988. It is a bolt in, after you slot the passenger-side mounting hole (if it is not already). You don't even need to change your tie rod ends. The lower u-joint will need to be replaced, as the input splines are a different count and size (if you already have a manual rack). With core, out here, the rack can be had for $75. Get the 1-piece rack (not the TRW one), 3-turns, lock to lock. There is a 2-1/2 turn one. You don't want it. Speedway has a line kit to go from that rack to the Saginaw pump, pre-made. I like the steering feel with this setup, but some don't. If that's the case for you, you can put a shim, or two, in the pump to correct that. I have not had to, and no customers have ever complained.
Jesus, you fellers are on top of it! Quick and descriptive and helpful! The only reason I'd do the Chevy pump over a Ford one is literally, my dad has 2 or 3 just laying in his garage, and I'm sure it'd break his heart for me to buy a new part over using his! Especially if he's helping with the install. I'll have to discuss it with him and weigh my options, but thanks!
The hoses: Fits SAE and Metric pumps (in one kit!): http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1982-88-T-Bird-Rack-to-GM-Pump-Power-Steering-Hose-Kit,7269.html Shims (just in case): http://www.borgeson.com/xcart/catal...re_Reducing_Shim_Kit-orderby_0-p-1-c-133.html My suggestion, try it without the shims first. If it seems a little over-boosted, shim it up. Like I have said, I have not had to. The rack can be had at most auto parts stores. Prices vary. Shop around.
Read my thread on M II stability issues before you swap. My steering is pretty quick, even with the shimmed PS pump.
Also, a rod w/ps & Mustang 11 drives better with at least 4 degrees if caster.More caster improves stability at speed &makes steering less twitchy
I used CJ Automotive, 5909 Firestone Blvd. South Gate CA 902080 562 806-6464 [email protected]. They do nothing but rebuild power steering racks and can do custom widths, quick ratio builds etc. I went with a T-bird rack....
The one I got from TCI a few years ago with my MII kit shit the bed a few weeks ago. I got a replacement at my local NAPA store ('82-'88 T-bird unit). It's actually a heavier steering feel now than with the original unit. Me likey more better! But I had to swap over the tie rod extender to get the proper width/alignment. Running a Chevy PS pump.
Is there a difference in pressure/volume between the old style GM pump and the newer style? Is one better than the other with the T-Bird rack?
You should not have a problem with excess pressure, as Ford ran Saganaw pumps on Fairmonts and Zephers in the late 70's and early 80's. That rack is the same as a late T-Bird. I had MII in my 39 Deluxe Coupe and used the GM pump, I ran a Pontiac engine in the car, and had no mproblems at all
If the steering is over sensitive you need to use a pressure reducer valve. If you do not you risk blowing the seals in the rack. MII rack needss like 850lbs pressure and GM pump puts out 1200 lbs....
LOL Watch this funny how-to video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-IruoW33bTI&feature=youtube_gdata_player POWER STEERING IS THE WAY TO GO....!
As far as I have observed, no, just a different fitting on the pressure side (metric o-ring vs. SAE inverted flare), and metric bolts. I have used them interchangeably, depending on what was on-hand. Very true, for the MII rack, but the T-Bird rack has a MUCH higher rating. Two different animals. You can run a T-Bird rack with a Saginaw pump, with no pressure reducer.
I have a rack from the later Mustang, with the wider T-bird bolt pattern. Does anyone know if I should expect the same performance as the T-bird(feel, lock to lock, etc)?
Yup. The Mustang and the T-Bird (and a few other Fords) in that era (80'ish-93'ish) use the same rack. Be careful, there are three. There is a two-piece rack, manufactured by TRW. You don't want that one. There are the other two are one-piece racks, manufactured by Ford. Of those two, there is a 3-turn unit, and a 2-1/2-turn unit. You will want the 3-turn unit. The 2-1/2-turn is too quick.
is there a specific application that uses the 3 turn rack, or some other way to tell besides going through every effin' rack at the store and seeing how many turns they are?
Sorry for posting in this old ass thread, but as it's swap meet season I'll be parts hunting again! Also, thanks, Gimpyshotrods! You seem to know the most! So, if I go with a T-bird rack I can run a Chevy pump, possibly without a shim kit? And I'm sorry, I'm confused. Will I have to modify my rack mounting locations? I'm assuming this is what you're referring to about the "slotted hole"...? I would like to reuse my tie rod ends, so that's good to know! I'm going to probably wait until I get the right pump before I buy my rack, but do you think they'd be priced better at the swap meets? What should I look for in buying a used rack? Or is that a terrible idea all together and I should stick with rebuilt/new parts? I enjoy getting used parts, even inspecting them, I just don't know what to look for. I know it'd be around an '88 T-bird rack, but other than measuring my current rack, I don't know anything. Anyone know some warning signs I should look out for? Or is NAPA my best bet? Thanks so much, guys!!
Not sure if you have AutoZone out there, but they are there, remanufactured, for under $90, with the core charge. At least that way, you know what you are getting, and get a warranty. I have used them with both SAE and Metric GM classic Saginaw P pumps (type-I, looks like a little ham can), and the small, later GM Saginaw TC style pumps (type-II), both without shims. Speedway has hose kits, or a local hydraulic hose supplier can make them.