rough running when hot

hey on my o/t daily 72 f100 360 while driving the warmer it gets the worse it runs it starts jumping and couhging ,belching under exceleration

i have replaced the complete ignition with reman distributor,and a pertronix kit new coil, new wires new plugs (just replaced them again this past friday old ones were all ash colored and even )

has reman carb motorcraft 2bbl just replaced the power valve friday and re routed the fuel line from the pump to the carb to get it out of the heat from the engine

my coil is mounted in the factory location on the intake do you think its getting to hot the coil is a chrome accel one

or do you think the fuel pump could be acting goofy ive allways thought the pump either works or dont they dont gradually go bad

or could the timing chain be stretched ? the truck has 119k miles dont know but doubt the chain has ever been replaced

any ideas or suggestions? thanks

 

Where do you have the timing set? And do you know that the balancer has not slipped giving you a false reading?
My FE like a lot of advance or it tends to backfire through the carb a bit and surge at light load.

 

not sure on the balancer (is there away to tell if its slipped?) im pretty sure the timing is set at 8 degrees before

 

If you have a timing light when iding see if the pointer is moving all around at a mark.
Some times if so the chain maybe streched.
I would go back to points and a diry oldl stock coil and resister and a new condenser.When you get it going then play with the chrome,and the soild state crap.

 

the only way to know for sure is to use a dead stop and find true Top Dead Center ad then see if that agrees with your timing mark

as for a stretched chain, the easy check is to pop the dist cap off, put a wrench on the crank bolt and rotate the motor a little. Now go the other direction. If you can turn the crank a bit before the dist rotor moves, you got a sloppy chain.

 

what about plugs, wires , worn plugs and arcing wires cause problems. my 390 in my tbird was doing the same, put the petronix 3 , reman dizzy, e3 plugs and some good 8mm wires, runs great now....

 

Guess you didn't read the whole 1st post - he said all that was NEW

 

ok thanks for the suggestions i went out and checkout a few things checked the dist cap for carbon trcking or cracks....nope nodda

put timing mark on damper at 0 and number one is on top rotor pointing at number 1 tried the turning the crank watching rotor trick moves right off going forward takes awhile to move when turning backwards

so im deduceing that the chain is stretched

but

question why would these symtoms only show up when the engine gets warm shouldnt they be there at all times?

 

Not saying this is your problem, but it sounds sorta similar to something I experienced a few years ago on a fresh rebuild.

The engine would pop thru the carb after it got hot, especially if I gave it a bit of throttle. Blew the engine after a short time. The problem was valve float or bounce. After engine blew, others on here helped deduce what had gone wrong. Likely cause was a bad spring. Valve finally broke and destroyed engine. One important suggestion from Squirrel was to always use new springs.

Just saying it may not be as simple as just ignition or fuel system.