New Water Pump and still no flow and overheating...

No, George, not you, the question is for the OP with the problem....

 

Tranny is 3speed not the powerglide...
I'll check on the combustion gases issue...
thanks for all the suggestions and info... there is a lot, so if I missed anything from anyone no disrespect, I still appreciate all the help. I'll keep post with progress.
thanks,
Larry

 

If the radiator is getting hot there must be water flowing

 

did you check the tension of your belt? can you grab your fan blade on the water pump and turn it by hand w/ the car not running? I just recently had my 235 rebuilt and had this similar issue w/ a fully rebuilt radiator also. My belt wasn't tight enough and the belt was slipping on the water pump just enough to not pump enough and it was overheating. just something to check man

 

back flush with a " prestone" flush kit (or make your own splice garden hose into atee in the heater hose seal it tight run until water comes out radiator neck .. cap off) run until clear
now remove lowwer hose and fill rad at a slow pace water should flow out the lower fitting at the same rate as its goes in ... kinda
..does it?
hook heater hose+ lower backup and remove/ t stat housing w/o stat in place hookhousing back up but leave rad cap off
refill rad check tightness and width of now wet belt ok?
from cold run engine until water movement is seen in top of rad
top hose should feel warm let run then check if lower hose is getting warm look out for the fan!
good so far?
now put "good" 160 degree stat in the correct way retest as above only have5-15 lb only cap in place run if it starts to percolate and blow off thru cap many issues could be result


but the waterpump and stat and cap should be okay

so other issues
timing advanced 10-15 degrees
bad head gasket or cracked head
clogged head - block

good luck aint this fun now yer learning just like we all did